raveney
Well-Known Member
Hello,
New project is a 3/4 inch per foot scale model of a Case steam traction engine that is located nearby at a fairgrounds in central Florida. I never gave much thought to these tractors until a colleague at work told me about the Case 150HP that was recreated in the Midwest by a young man named Kory Anderson. Exceptional story and inspiring video here.
CASE 150 HP
![Case Tractor Patina Image.png Case Tractor Patina Image.png](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98560-0775e7dec707923164dac1b0c75d3a27.jpg)
![Front Wheel.png Front Wheel.png](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98561-9d3b7bc233fceafce1f10f115a7ec82b.jpg)
I have been watching several threads here by Mike N and 4156DF. Also purchased the well known book by Rudy Kouhoupt. Thought I would start with the front wheels...
Had a scrap of 3" OD SCH5 steel tube left over from a cheesy "Harbah Frait" grinder stand that yielded some rim material. My table top bandsaw cuts pretty square, and was able to slice two 0.75" wide and two 0.16" wide pieces. I trued them on the lathe using a piece of 3" SCH 40 pipe and some shim stock to avoid distortion. These are thinner than what Rudy prescribes as I am attempting to follow the dimensions given in a 1916 Case Catalog.
![Front Rim.jpg Front Rim.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98557-4c38f3039d7ed37fb03fa6d852f9df05.jpg)
I chose 1/16 ER70S2 TIG filler wire for the spokes after modeling the wheel in Fusion. Made the hubs on the lathe and rotary table, drilling 0.100" blind holes at 30 degree intervals.
![Front Hub.jpg Front Hub.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98556-7d97b3cc380a496f0621edc69343f755.jpg)
Used the rotary table setup to drill the rims and fixtured the "tire" in place with 18 gauge copper wire rivets.
![Indexed Rim.jpg Indexed Rim.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98559-29dbb3396b83f3ce81572c7a8e406cda.jpg)
I just purchased some insulated fire brick which is pretty flat and hard. Used leftover furnace cement to position a few flat washers to the brick centering the rim. The indexed the rim and drilled and set a 3/16" dowel to hold the spindle/hub. Using black flux and map gas I silver brazed it all up.
![Brazing Fixture.jpg Brazing Fixture.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98555-949ef31a36821fff124adf0e13d4ecf3.jpg)
Upon inspection, the hub spokes may need a redo, but they feel solid. May just leave alone as paint will fill the gaps. The wheel spins true on the axle!
![Front Wheel Inspection.jpg Front Wheel Inspection.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98558-7b30c571a7fee81664bcda2b69c31e1f.jpg)
The next one should go much faster. For the rear tire I would really like to change the "grouters" to appear more realistic or 3D, but there are so many (thinking about 64) Any ideas on how to make them? I like the ones in Mike N's thread
New project is a 3/4 inch per foot scale model of a Case steam traction engine that is located nearby at a fairgrounds in central Florida. I never gave much thought to these tractors until a colleague at work told me about the Case 150HP that was recreated in the Midwest by a young man named Kory Anderson. Exceptional story and inspiring video here.
CASE 150 HP
![Case Tractor Patina Image.png Case Tractor Patina Image.png](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98560-0775e7dec707923164dac1b0c75d3a27.jpg)
![Front Wheel.png Front Wheel.png](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98561-9d3b7bc233fceafce1f10f115a7ec82b.jpg)
I have been watching several threads here by Mike N and 4156DF. Also purchased the well known book by Rudy Kouhoupt. Thought I would start with the front wheels...
Had a scrap of 3" OD SCH5 steel tube left over from a cheesy "Harbah Frait" grinder stand that yielded some rim material. My table top bandsaw cuts pretty square, and was able to slice two 0.75" wide and two 0.16" wide pieces. I trued them on the lathe using a piece of 3" SCH 40 pipe and some shim stock to avoid distortion. These are thinner than what Rudy prescribes as I am attempting to follow the dimensions given in a 1916 Case Catalog.
![Front Rim.jpg Front Rim.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98557-4c38f3039d7ed37fb03fa6d852f9df05.jpg)
I chose 1/16 ER70S2 TIG filler wire for the spokes after modeling the wheel in Fusion. Made the hubs on the lathe and rotary table, drilling 0.100" blind holes at 30 degree intervals.
![Front Hub.jpg Front Hub.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98556-7d97b3cc380a496f0621edc69343f755.jpg)
Used the rotary table setup to drill the rims and fixtured the "tire" in place with 18 gauge copper wire rivets.
![Indexed Rim.jpg Indexed Rim.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98559-29dbb3396b83f3ce81572c7a8e406cda.jpg)
I just purchased some insulated fire brick which is pretty flat and hard. Used leftover furnace cement to position a few flat washers to the brick centering the rim. The indexed the rim and drilled and set a 3/16" dowel to hold the spindle/hub. Using black flux and map gas I silver brazed it all up.
![Brazing Fixture.jpg Brazing Fixture.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98555-949ef31a36821fff124adf0e13d4ecf3.jpg)
Upon inspection, the hub spokes may need a redo, but they feel solid. May just leave alone as paint will fill the gaps. The wheel spins true on the axle!
![Front Wheel Inspection.jpg Front Wheel Inspection.jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/homemodelenginemachinist/data/attachments/98/98558-7b30c571a7fee81664bcda2b69c31e1f.jpg)
The next one should go much faster. For the rear tire I would really like to change the "grouters" to appear more realistic or 3D, but there are so many (thinking about 64) Any ideas on how to make them? I like the ones in Mike N's thread