Building Rudy's Steam Tractor

[arnoldb]

Dennis, on my steam loco (like Dean mentioned) I put a drop of oil into the exhaust and push the loco in reverse to suck the oil into the cylinders. Having said that, my loco runs on wobblers so the oil goes straight where its intended. I'm not sure if this method will get enough oil into the valve chest to lubricate a D-valve like on your model - also, with the slip-eccentric it might be tricky to reverse it far enough to get the oil into the cylinder and valve before the engine reverses and just blows it out again.

A simple suggestion I can make, that is if you decide you want to regularly steam up the tractor, is to add a small "access plug" close to the cylinder on the main steam line that you can unscrew to put a drop of oil into between steam-ups. The main thing is you don't want oil going back into the boiler.

So, apologies; I don't think there's a "non-modification" solution in your case which is a real pity. Having said that though, I don't think you need to be overly concerned; the wear on your engine will be relatively slow, as the steam itself will actually act as lubrication to a lesser extent on models with low pressure (i.e. "wetter steam") boilers.

Regards, Arnold

 

[ghart3]

Dennis, very nice, an excellent well done project. Your sharing is a great plus in helping others out and encouraging them and is an inspiration for me to do better. gary

 

[BrianS]

Sorry for digging up old posts but I just read through this thread and it's an awesome reference. You've done an awesome job and I've learned a bunch just reading through it. Thanks!

Some people might object, but I was wondering do you think it would be possible to run this tractor by radio control without ruining the look and feel of it? Thanks in advance.

Brian

 

[srp]

Hello, can anyone help me to find where i can purchase the gear set for the Rudy traction build? I have the plans and a address for Chicago Gear Works and have e-mail them? I live in New Zealand and would really like to build this steam engine. Will be gratefull for any help, thanks.

 

[Tin Falcon]

Sorry for digging up old posts but I just read through this thread and it's an awesome reference. You've done an awesome job and I've learned a bunch just reading through it. Thanks!

Some people might object, but I was wondering do you think it would be possible to run this tractor by radio control without ruining the look and feel of it? Thanks in advance.

Brian

I encourage resurrection of old post as long as it is relevant.

RC conversions are common on steam boats . Cool idea as long as you can conceal the rc gear and keep the original look.

 

[kwoodhands]

That's the answer I was hoping for!
The work is date is far too nice to be scrapped.

Rick

Rudy calls for a steel pipe 2" ID for the outer casing. This makes installing threaded parts easier. Blast pipe bracket, wheel pivot bracket etc are bolted to the casing. Brass is fine as long as it is thick enough to drill and thread. Otherwise, brass brackets and soft solder will also work. Though I have not tried this method.
I bought a 2" ID steel pipe like suggested. This turned out to be a problem when I tried to install the copper boiler. Would not fit with the height dimensions of the water tubes. My steel pipe was 2" ID. The copper was 1-1/2" OD. This left 1/2" room for the water tubes on Rudy's plans. I do not recall what he called for but it was more than 1/2".
I since found out that amount of slope is not critical as long as there is some upward slope. Apparently, my pipe has thicker walls than what Rudy used.
My boiler had leaks on all three water tubes where the tubes are installed into elongated holes. No fixing this as the gaps were to large.
I did some experimenting with this boiler as I will build another. I bored the holes 5/32" , then bored with the same drill on a steep angle. I reamed the holes with a .188 reamer.
The tube did not fit . I installed the tube in a three-jaw chuck with 1" or so protruding. I tapered the tube slightly with a sanding stick with 180 grit sandpaper.
This works well, tube went into the hole easily. I then hard soldered the piece of tube . Experiment went well.
Have not had a chance to work in the shop lately , will try another boiler build in the near future.
I built the rear and front wheels from 1/8" thick brass. Made formers and annealed about 6 or 7 times. The butt joint was slightly beveled, scrap of aluminum screwed underneath temporarily , then hard soldered. Grouters ( I call them cleats) were 1/16" thick x 1/4" brass strips screwed to the wheels as I did not have rivets yet. I will replace the screws with rivets later. I also used 1/72 x 1/8" screws for the rest of the rivets on the casing. These I will leave as they look like rivets to me.