1916 65 HP Case Traction Engine 1/16 Scale

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Denatured alcohol was not available locally, but was able to buy a quart online. I tried several different wick materials that I had with a score of different amounts to alter the fuel/air ratio. Best results with some loose strands of fiberglass wick in the bottom of the barrels, and cotton ball shapes of forge insulation on top. Of course it burns differently up inside the smoke box so I used a mirror to eyeball the flame color 20230903_144408.jpg20230903_154810.jpg

I also made a couple of aluminum spacers to move the burners and tank lower in respect to the boiler. It was improving to the point that I would be happy as a static display model, but I really wanted a crawler which needed more steam pressure. I added a third burner and that made it much better.
Results are below
Best operational procedure is to fill and bleed boiler and heat up with smoke box door open. Once we build 20 PSIG while running on bench (10 minutes), refill alcohol and transport to a flat surface. It will then run until the water runs out which is between 8 to 10 minutes. All of the trials and tuning has given the model a decent patina of drips and scuffs. I like it better than fresh paint. What do you all think?

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final images
This was a very rewarding project to build as the builder can use materials on hand and detail it to whatever level that they feel comfortable with. I think that the extra wheel spokes were well worth the extra time. I became obsessed with making a working clutch, so that's likely why the third burner was needed to overcome the friction. Plan to make a larger fuel tank if one follows this route and they don't feel like refilling the tank after warmup. It isn't that bad if you have a squeeze bottle and aren't scared of a little flaming spill of alcohol on your benchtop.:p
 

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Denatured alcohol was not available locally, but was able to buy a quart online. I tried several different wick materials that I had with a score of different amounts to alter the fuel/air ratio. Best results with some loose strands of fiberglass wick in the bottom of the barrels, and cotton ball shapes of forge insulation on top. Of course it burns differently up inside the smoke box so I used a mirror to eyeball the flame colorView attachment 149713View attachment 149712

I also made a couple of aluminum spacers to move the burners and tank lower in respect to the boiler. It was improving to the point that I would be happy as a static display model, but I really wanted a crawler which needed more steam pressure. I added a third burner and that made it much better.
Results are below
Best operational procedure is to fill and bleed boiler and heat up with smoke box door open. Once we build 20 PSIG while running on bench (10 minutes), refill alcohol and transport to a flat surface. It will then run until the water runs out which is between 8 to 10 minutes. All of the trials and tuning has given the model a decent patina of drips and scuffs. I like it better than fresh paint. What do you all think?

View attachment 149714



My main reaction - - - WOW !!!!

re: leave it or perfect paint
imo that will depend - - - - are you going to run it occasionally - - - - well then leave it as a 'working model' - - if on the other hand you are going to maybe steam it only very rarely then you will be better served (life of the model) by touching up the paint. (don't forget internal (steel) surfaces!!)
You have a gorgeous model and it deserves to have as long a life as possible (something like the original) so if you love to run 'er - - - - enjoy!!!!

Thank you ever so much for sharing!!!

(are you going to give 'er some implements? - - - grin )
 
Thank you all for the positive feedback :)
I enjoyed sharing the experience as much as building the model. I will probably never build the canopy or letter it. But I like the authentic detail of Olympic's implements, hoses, and extra valves.

Hopefully my grandkids will want to see what pops does and I will fire it up again and again.
For the immediate future I plan to switch gears and do some miniature wood working. A 1/6 scale (Barbie size) Poster bed is on the wish list...
 
Thank you all for the positive feedback :)
I enjoyed sharing the experience as much as building the model. I will probably never build the canopy or letter it. But I like the authentic detail of Olympic's implements, hoses, and extra valves.

Hopefully my grandkids will want to see what pops does and I will fire it up again and again.
For the immediate future I plan to switch gears and do some miniature wood working. A 1/6 scale (Barbie size) Poster bed is on the wish list...


(LOL) You know you could power a small saw mill from that engine and then you would have/cut your lumber for the Poster bed.
Merely one small project in between - - - lol.
 
If you want something for your tractor to power, you could model a Baker fan. Many of them are made of wood so you could knock one out while working on your Barbie bed. They are a simple way of putting a working load on your steam engine. I need to make one myself.

Grabbed this nice picture from a web search:

baker.jpg
 
Kory's story is indeed inspiring.
For those who have not heard it, the short story is that Kory wanted to recreate a 150 hp Case steam tractor (two were build, but none existed).
Kory decided to buy a foundry, and then using the original Case drawings, he created his own patterns, and made his own Case castings.
Kory now owns the only 150 hp Case tractor in the world.

I also follow some of what Kory does at his foundry, via "Modern Casting" magazine, and he takes on challenges that nobody else will attempt.

"Inspiring" really does not do Kory justice.
I consider him as being pretty much in a league of his own.


Anyway, that is some superb wheel work in my opinion !
That is going to be a great model you are building; I can just tell.

.
Doesn't Midwest Old Threshers own that 150hp steam engine? I go to that event every year
and seems like someone told me that OT purchased it several years ago.
 
Have been thinking of your question on the do I touch up paint or not.
(need preamble to set the story)
Grew up where a wood stove was the only source of heat.
Mom liked it to look 'nice'.
On a warming stove - - - just fired up so NOT hot just warm - - - she would take the paper towel that had been underneath the bacon and thoroughly wipe down the outside of the stove. As the stove heated further the bacon smell would first be pronounced and then dissipate. End result was a great looking stove with a great appearance. When this hadn't been done for a while - - - well it just didn't look sharp.
Might be worth a try on your steamer - - - at least on the bits that heat a bunch.
HTH
 
On a warming stove - - - just fired up so NOT hot just warm - - - she would take the paper towel that had been underneath the bacon and thoroughly wipe down the outside of the stove. As the stove heated further the bacon smell would first be pronounced and then dissipate. End result was a great looking stove with a great appearance. When this hadn't been done for a while - - - well it just didn't look sharp.
And it's a great excuse for a bacon sandwich !
 
Good story, and I do love me some bacon. 😋
While researching this build for details, I saved these pictures that show the oil drippings right where my model has them. Note the variation on the smoke box doors. The first photo is from the local show, Florida Flywheelers. Also read somewhere that the real boilers had linseed oil rubbed on them to create the boiler black sheen and protective coating. I'd rather smell bacon than linseed, but in the South bacon fat is reserved for cookin' and linseed oil is for wood workin'
Miniature plastic military modelers have a whole line of weathering finishes and techniques that are used to look realistic. I think I will keep it natural like it is.
Thank you for all of the comments
Flywheelers Case Tractor Front axle and door.jpg
LHS shot.png
 

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