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Can I ask why not use the Nitro Fuel Straight up? I have thought about using it on my TI4, but have not tried it yet.

Kel
 
kcmillin said:
Can I ask why not use the Nitro Fuel Straight up? I have thought about using it on my TI4, but have not tried it yet.

Kel

Well..... It is 35% nitromethane and the rest is ethanol. More power equals more heat and stress on parts. These little works of art just aren't built to be pounded like that. A very small percentage might make a slight difference and help out but 100% could put you in the damage range.
 
stevehuckss396 said:
Well..... It is 35% nitromethane and the rest is ethanol. More power equals more heat and stress on parts. These little works of art just aren't built to be pounded like that. A very small percentage might make a slight difference and help out but 100% could put you in the damage range.

So it would be perfect for finding weak links :big: :big:, no, but really, that is good to know.

Kel
 
Nitro is not specifically a very good fuel. It's claim to fame is it releases free oxygen when it burns, allowing you to effectively increase the size of your engine.
 
I use Naptha gas (Coleman lantern fuel) AKA "white gas" for my engines. It ignites easily, and it doesn't stink the way automotive gasoline does. I would say, if your engine is as close to running as you say it is that you should build another piston with the proper sized groove for a Viton o-ring. A piston takes all of 25 minutes to make, viton o-rings can be had for 50 cents, and in a worst case scenario, you can always put the old piston back in the engine. Mucking about with exotic fuels and Nitromethane is just a good way to have an explosion or fire on your hands. I used to run a rail dragster back in the 1960's, and I've had my fun with Nitromethane---Damned dangerous stuff!!!
 
Okay...took some time off before I bashed the engine with a hammer. Going to give it yet another whirl this weekend.

Chris
 
I was just at the Henry Ford museum this weekend, didnt see the origional, but will make it a point the next time I go back.
 
Im trying to remember, I did see it a year or two ago but cant recall what part of the museum it was in. That was before I knew people were interested in building it. It may get rotated in and out, I am not sure.

Grandson had such a great time at NAMES, and at HF this past weekend, Im thinking of springing for the family plan.
 
Bought a new heavier flywheel ($85), machined the new flywheel (3-hours), installed the new flywheel (1-hour), and still cannot get the F*@%^&*! engine to run (priceless)

Chris
 
Having an extra flywheel is not a bad thing. I am sure you will have a use for it in the future. For now, however, lets get this one running.

Three things involved in getting an engine to run.
  • Fuel
  • Spark
  • Compression

Fuel just has to be close, spark a reasonable amount just before tdc, compression is usually the killer for home model engines.

But lets start with fuel. One extremely easy way to check is metering propane with an unlit torch. Vaporized propane wont stick to the manifold wall, drop out around bends, or foul out spark plugs.

So shoot a little propane down the intake and tell us if you hear a pop, if not, try a lot of propane. Whatever you hear or not will determine the next step.
 
Lakc said:
Having an extra flywheel is not a bad thing. I am sure you will have a use for it in the future. For now, however, lets get this one running.

Three things involved in getting an engine to run.
  • Fuel
  • Spark
  • Compression

Fuel just has to be close, spark a reasonable amount just before tdc, compression is usually the killer for home model engines.

But lets start with fuel. One extremely easy way to check is metering propane with an unlit torch. Vaporized propane wont stick to the manifold wall, drop out around bends, or foul out spark plugs.

So shoot a little propane down the intake and tell us if you hear a pop, if not, try a lot of propane. Whatever you hear or not will determine the next step.

Jeff...that sounds like something I can try. I will give it a whirl later tonight.

Chris
 
Other than trying the propane idea that Jeff has suggested, I think it's almost going to run longer than 5-seconds. I took the ENTIRE engine off it's original base and built a new sawhorse type base which is much stronger. The new base is also at waist height so it is easier to work on!

I also replaced the timing brass strip to a thinner copper strip and adjusted everything again.

Also, I added an O-ring in addition to a piston ring which adds a bit more compression.

AND, I loosened all of the mounting screws that hold down the cylinder to reduce some of the binding.

Can you believe the damn thing actually ran better that it ever has! It ran for about 10 to 15 seconds before it fell on it's face.

This means it might be ready for the Yankee Steam-Up in Rhode Island on October 1st!!!

Chris
 
Kind of makes you appreciate today's car engines which start easy and just keep on runnin'.

Chuck
 
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kTT5hi7Ibuk?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here it is..............FINALLY.

Just some fine tuning to do and it's finally running!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you to everyone who helped me out with this...and I think it has been everyone.

Chris
 
Well Done Chris!!!!!!!! Congratulations!!

It is sounding great, I am amazed at how slow it was turning over.

A wise man one said "Perseverance is Everything" and you have just proved that.

Kel
 
Vascon---Congratulations. You have had a long and painfull trial with that engine. Have you figured out exactly what it was that prevented the engine from running previously??---Brian
 
Chris, I'm really glad you got it running. I know these little engines can be a real pain in the @$&/. But, like your children, you love them anyway! Congratulations, keep at it, it makes success just that much sweeter!

Chuck
 
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