Henry Ford's Kitchen Sink Engine (my version)

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I had always been suspect of the exhaust valve setup that I originally made for the engine. I had a great deal of trouble getting the valve stem hole exactly in line with the valve seat. It looks like it would be a simple thing to do with the six sides flanges on each end of the housing but those flats don't line up with the internal seat or even with each other. So i tried drilling through the valve stem but the inside of the stem is not at 90 degrees to the internal seat.
So this is what I did.
IMG_2443.JPG

I drilled a large hole through the seat and through the bottom of the valve. I turned a brass slug to be pressed into this hole and cut a valve seat into the end of it. Now the valve seat and the center hole for a new valve are in line with each other. I drilled four holes in the slug to let the exhaust gasses exit and this is how it turned out.
IMG_2445.JPG

This was a great improvement and I had several short runs but I noticed that when the engine fired there was a puff out the carb. That needs to be addressed so now I will work on the intake valve design.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
I had always been suspect of the exhaust valve setup that I originally made for the engine. I had a great deal of trouble getting the valve stem hole exactly in line with the valve seat. It looks like it would be a simple thing to do with the six sides flanges on each end of the housing but those flats don't line up with the internal seat or even with each other. So i tried drilling through the valve stem but the inside of the stem is not at 90 degrees to the internal seat.
So this is what I did.
View attachment 150676

I drilled a large hole through the seat and through the bottom of the valve. I turned a brass slug to be pressed into this hole and cut a valve seat into the end of it. Now the valve seat and the center hole for a new valve are in line with each other. I drilled four holes in the slug to let the exhaust gasses exit and this is how it turned out.
View attachment 150677

This was a great improvement and I had several short runs but I noticed that when the engine fired there was a puff out the carb. That needs to be addressed so now I will work on the intake valve design.

Thanks for looking
Ray
Probably issues with the swing valve seat. Even after improving the intake valve spring, I was having leakage so I marked the seat and valve with Prussian blue and improved the seal with some careful sanding and polishing.

It’s a tricky little devil, good luck!

John W
 
It just shows what tolerancing is all about... pipe fittings do not need the same manufacturing tolerances as Infernal combustion engines.... So in reality, you are making a precision engine (so it will run) inside some very crude lumps of metal, thus making it look like these crude lumps of metal can provide an engine that works.
I experienced just the opposite when in Japan. Everywhere I went, I was given gifts... Beautifully and precisely wrapped (by machine at the "gift" manufacturers!). But, out of courtesy, one does not open the gift until after leaving the premises.... When opened, usually the gift was the cheapest possible "something" - like with cheap Christmas crackers. One "gift" - in a beautifully wrapped box 12" x 2" x 6" - was plastic comb, so poor that the teeth broke when I passed it through my beard.... Another was a cheap plastic purse that was too small for the train tickets and the change from the ticket machine, that it was meant to hold.
A beautifully engineered Con.
But well done making this engine actually work!
K2
 
Thanks K2

I decided to change the intake valve system completely. I know that this is not how Ford did it but I want an engine that is easy to start and runs somewhat smoothly.

Here are the parts.
IMG_2448.JPG

And installed.
IMG_2451.JPG

I did a couple of short runs and then I started hearing an extra clicking sound. If you remember a while back the cylinder had turned and was binding on the piston and the connecting rod. I took that all apart and re tightened along with Lok-Tite and that is staying where it should.
Now the flywheel end is turning.
If you sight down the flywheel you can see how far the housing has turned.
IMG_2455.JPG

The bright spot on the crankshaft shows where the connecting rod lock nut was hitting and making the racket.
IMG_2458.JPG

I realigned the housing and secured it with three 5/16" bolts really torqued down.
That should hold it.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Hi Ray .
"Henry Ford's Kitchen Sink Engine (my version)"
I have watched quite a few videos about this engine on youtube. But I really like your version 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing.
Congratulations !
 
Thanks John and Minh.

Final picture with the electronics box. The on/off switch is on the other side.
View attachment 150794

I want to thank everyone who left comments and likes along the way it is appreciated.

Thanks for looking
Ray
Once again, nicely done Ray! Clean AND a runner, can’t beat that.

John W
 
Gary a diesel pile driver just doesn't seem to interest me that much but I will think on it.

Joe thank you
I don't make many drawings but if there is something in particular that you would like to ask just fire away.
If I had started with a 5 way tee it would have been easier in the end.

Ray
 
It may seem simpler than the engines you've built, with fewer parts, but to get it running is a "battle" between friction and airtightness: piston - cylinder - valve, smooth and friction between other parts of engine .
Just a simple thought: Because an engine runs on air contracting inside it, it needs to be airtight - because of that airtightness, when hot air is suck into the cylinder it is cooled and changes volume and it acts on the piston and because changes volume is very small -> very little energy is produced so friction must be minimal and smooth between parts
 
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