Jasonb

I also use the "aluminium" inserts on all materials these days, they are ideal for the lighter hobby machines be that mill or lathe due...

You could think about getting the parts 3D printed in aluminium or stainless if you have the files, 0.065" wall should be OK

"The engine was scrapped and replaced with a DC motor." That will please Pat 😄 The controls sound similar to that engine I linked to...

Nothing wrong with a long bar and often needed to give enough run out at the end of the bore. Main thing is that it is not too slender...

I use a between ctrs boring bar quite alot for cylinders. You look to have quite an overhung setup with the vertical slide, vice and...

Face and ctr drill the end so you can use a tailstoch ctr to support the work while the stem is turned, then do the back of the head...

I would say it should be dimensioned 3/32" but it is not critical if you have already drilled it. It is indeed to take a peg to act as a...

Not a tandem but may be of interest https://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Reversing_rolling_mill_engine.html

Fair enough I did not see where it said white was used for stainless. Strange Harris mention stainless for the smaller sizes but not the...

I suggested in the other thread where Hockeypuck asked that black flux was the one to get. The two reasons are that it will stay active...

I would raise it up off the surface so you can get the heat into that steel jig. Ideally use lightweigh vermiculite or similar...

The painting has been completed and all the parts assembled with gaskets. I ran it on air again and it runs very well, even at slow...

Ignore all the hardness names in that video as jewelry solder which he is talking about uses different classifications

For a start you need silver solder not what you have in the picture. The name applies to the silver content not the actual colour of the...

Hope you are OK Brian, its all gone quiet. Any luck timing your engine?