Henry Ford's Kitchen Sink Engine (my version)

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I was thinking of adding a steel slug to the flapper to help close it. Since you have built one of these engines what do the plans say to use ?

I made a very flimsy coil spring that sits on the combustion chamber side of the valve from some light music wire. Actually, it was a “B” string from my guitar, and I can’t remember the wire gauge. I’ll PM you some ideas.

John W
I have been concerned about the wall thickness of the 3/4" tee. This tee is much smaller than the original but I am still using 1/2" plumbing pipes.
I bit the bullet and just drilled the holes to size for 1/2" MIP threads.

I did the taping in the mill also but not under power.

It turned out to be about two or three threads in the tee but the fittings tightened up solidly so I will go with that.
I modified the two close nipples so they would screw further into the tee and into the valves to use up even more space.
Drilled the hole for the spark plug.
Here it is loosely screwed together.

I found out quite quickly that the threads in the tee did not make for an air tight seal.
I will tackle that issue tomorrow.

Thanks for looking.
Threads never seal... need compound or PTFE tape to seal. Engineered with tolerances to be a sliding or clearance fit.... so you get a helical hard contact line making a long helical tube with open ends...
Or did I go to the wrong school? (Threads are twisted ramps. Maybe my brain is twisted too?).
Since there are only about 3 threads in the tee and none of them makes a full circle I bought some J-B Weld steel reinforced epoxy rated at 550 degrees. Now all this has to do is seal the threads on the close nipples going into the 3/4" tee. Will have to see if this works.

This epoxy takes 4 to 6 hours to setup and 24 hours to cure so I set that aside for tomorrow.

I am going to try to use a steel weight on the intake flapper valve to hopefully get it to seal better.


I had only stained the mounting board so since I had some time I gave it quick sand and spayed it with clear coat to help protect it.

Thanks for looking.
So for right now the nipples are sealed and I have some compression I just don't know how long it will last with the engine running. If this doesn't work I have thought about using a 5 way fitting as a last resort.
Both the intake and exhaust valves have a small leak each that I will work on.

Cutting the timing gears. Mod1 20 and 40 tooth.

And the result.

Thanks for looking
Great looking gears. I used JB Weld on some of the components, and like you, the NPT didn't grab a whole lot of material so that was one of the places I reinforced with it.

It does get hotter than a cheap pistol when running, so I don't run more than a couple minutes at a time (I got a pretty decent 2nd degree burn once when I brushed against the cylinder). Still hasn't been hot enough to fail the JB weld. I didn't figure it would since I did an exhaust manifold repair on my old Ford years ago, and that never failed!

John W
Oh, I almost forgot, I had to lap the exhaust valve to get it to seat well, and it seems I did something similar on the intake side as well but cant remember what I used.
Short day today as I only got the driven timing gear mounted.
It was a fight to get the gear spacing just right and then there was an interference problem with the crank throw bolt and the cam bolt but I persevered.
Each one had to give up a little space.

Thanks for looking
I made and painted two push rod supports and the adjustable push rod.
I spent the better part of the day working on the intake and exhaust valves. I ended up removing the flapper weight on the intake valve and installing a push spring behind the flapper. The exhaust valve only needed a little more lapping for it to seal.
I don't know exactly what my compression ratio is but from past experience I would say it is around 4 to 1.
I am very happy with that.

Thanks for looking
The gas tank is glued up and ready for use.
Cutting out the gas tank support.

Right off the mill.

Drilled some mounting holes, cut a slot, and one hole for the clamp.
Gave it a little polish and here they are installed with the remote fuel needle.

Next will be the throttle.

Thanks for looking
what type of glue did you use on your fuel tank? ive been wanting to make a see thru tank for a while but just didnt know what to use that would be fuel resistant to glue them in
I just used clear 2 part epoxy nothing special. I have had no problems with the epoxy and it is now on 13 engines and over 2 years of use. Thanks for asking.

I got the throttle done today and temporarily hooked up the ignition system to see if it would fire.

Yes it did fire and try to run but it quickly became clear there were some problems.
The flywheel is just too light without enough inertia to spin the engine over more than 2 compression strokes. It may have started if I had used the drill to turn it over longer but I knew it would always be a problem so a new flywheel is needed.
While I was trying to start the engine I noticed my exhaust valve was not closing. I discovered the push rod was holding the valve open but I had been careful to get the valve lash adjusted correctly before startup. So what was changing? It turned out the cylinder was turning or unscrewing from the support nipple. Just a little turn here will change the valve lash considerably and also cause binding of the piston in the cylinder. I will re thread the base and the nipple tighter and add loc-tite to the threads this time.

I do have a chunk of cast iron I can make the flywheel from so I won't have to order any material.
The trials of a new engine startup.

Thanks for looking
I did get the new flywheel cut out and painted but forgot the pictures. Tomorrow when the paint is dry I will get some.

Since the flywheel is considerably heaver than the old one there will be increased stresses on the crank shaft.
For the flywheel side I cut a key slot in the crank and broached the tapered bushing. That will hold the flywheel firmly in place.

I had used a rather hard press on the crank throw to the crankshaft but just to give some more strength I added a steel pin and loc-tite.
That should hold that end.

Thanks for looking
I did have some run times of about 30 seconds on the engine today and many at 10 seconds but it was running so badly I just stopped trying to start it. I am going to rethink the exhaust valve setup I have as that seems to be where the most problems are.
Give me a day or two and I will be back with an update.

Thanks for looking
I did have some run times of about 30 seconds on the engine today and many at 10 seconds but it was running so badly I just stopped trying to start it. I am going to rethink the exhaust valve setup I have as that seems to be where the most problems are.
Give me a day or two and I will be back with an update.

Thanks for looking
They’re tough little buggers to get running, even at full size. Good luck on working out the bugs, at least you don’t have to work out the points ignition or drip carburetor/oiler!

Still looking forward to your success.

John W

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