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In video it is running all hit and no miss, so added a catch rod. I need to make the catcher next.

WP_20141028_001.jpg
 
Chipstractor--I see that you haven't had many responses to your post. It looks like you have put a lot of thought and energy into making a running engine and I commend you. it is a great feeling to build any engine which will run under it's own power. Congratulations!!!---Brian
 
Brian,
Thanks for you kind words. I cannot compare the quality of my engine to fine works on display here but can enjoy a sense of accomplishment upon hearing it run.
 
Brian,
It is from scratch with great deal of copying what has been done by others. It is a 2 inch bore with cast iron rings and steel sleeve. Valves are out of a lawn mower, resized to fit in bore. 4 inch round for the block, 1/2 flat for the frame. I cut the curves with a jig saw my hands tingled for a bit after that.
New to me was using cam rod (not sure if this is the correct term) rather than a lobe. This is why a needed to add a second push rod to catch the exhaust valve open as the cam rod motion is powered both up and down as opposed to a push rod on a lobe which is free to caught open.
Although I have an engineering background my introduction to the machining/engine design was from a man whose only drawings were scribe marks.
 
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrVq0Qqw62U[/ame]
Achieved hit ands miss, rings appear to be seating as engine can now handle a light load.
 
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That's great. Real hit and miss and a great sound. All it needs is one of Brian Rupnow's devices attached to provide a load.

--ShopShoe
 
Cogsy/ShopShoe,
Thanks for looking and your compliments.


Cogsy,
Came equipped with a pto and I do like to see them work so I will take a look and see what Brian has posted for "devices". I already did have a plan for the pto. Second photo is today's work towards active cooling.

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Here is a link to drawing of an old favourite that I built many years ago.---I just checked out the drawings and I see that I never actually modelled the slinky itself. Bottom line is, the two ends of the slinky get epoxied to the grooves in the two platforms. As the slinky platforms move up and down, the slinky "walks" back and forth between the two platforms.--Run it slow though, to see the full effect.---Brian
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/downloads/assembly-slinkyplatform-drawingzip-22.html
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=3014&highlight=slinky+machine
 
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All of the videos I made of the slinky machine running have been lost, however, I found this video on Youtube which was built based on my original design.---Brian
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnlQVeaX0BE[/ame]
 
I like the slinky action and will give it thought. It does make me think of this set up.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URcGjTjOBRk[/ame]
 
The fan blades look better when spinning but moves air effectively.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xt8xdo-UsJg[/ame]
 
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Chipstractor--You may already know this, but I am going to blab on about it anyways. Conventional wisdom has it that a properly set up hit and miss engine shouldn't require a cooling fan. Why---Because on the strokes where it is "missing" it is pumping ambient air temperature through the cylinder and taking the heat away. However--that being said, I have two or 3 model water cooled hit and miss engines, and all of them will heat the water enough to see steam coming off it if you let them run long enough. Even if not required, a fan adds a bit of eyecandy to any engine.---Brian
 
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Brian,
Eye candy was the main idea, but I do know a well running hit and miss breathes it own cool air. That said with less than optimal design and governor still to be dialed I have gotten her quite hot after 30-40 minutes of running.
I hope to get it run more slowly after some more break in and thus cooler. In the mean time I enjoyed adding the fan and watching it spin.
 
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