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Shhhhhhh don't tell him, but that's why theres always extra swarf on the floor in the morning....

joe
 
Joe, If you don't mind put the tools back where you found them when you're done. I knew there was a reason nothing is ever where I thought I left it. I thought it was me just getting forgetfull. ;D
Tim
 
I need to round over the con rods, and then do final polish on con rods and flywheels. Should be ready pretty shortly.

Best,

BW
 
Time for the next installment. Recall we used the button v-block to turn the con rod flats on the lathe with a facing operation. Details are on my web site:

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCRevOpenCol2.htm

or here is a pic:

P1010581.JPG


Having done all 12 rods on both sides, our next operation is to drill and ream the large and small ends of the rods. We can once again use our button v-block as a handy fixture, though we shall be moving over to the mill to finish off these rods.

Start by aligning the slot in the v-block with the collet block:

P1010568.JPG


We have to align on 2 dimensions. For the second, I just drop my height gage down on the flat with the v-block loose and tighten it:

P1010627.JPG


Then we install the block in the Kurt vise:

P1010628.JPG


I'm using my Starrett edge finder in that photo to detect the edge in the Y direction.

<continued>
 
We use the edgefinder in X as well:

P1010629.JPG


You can see the edgefinder "kick" in that photo. With the spindle on slowest speed, I advance until the edgefinder kicks. At that point I know it has just kissed the part. Given the diameter of the edgefinder (3/8"), I can now precisely locate the axis of the spindle where I want to drill that hole in the big end.

P1010630.JPG


After writing down the handwheel coordinates, I insert the proper twist drill in the chuck and have at it.

P1010631.JPG


That hole was undersize by design, so we finish off with a reamer. I run my reamers at about 1/3 the speed of the twist drill.

<continued>
 
10 revolutions of my handwheel, and I am positioned 1.000" down the rod for the small end. Drill:

P1010632.JPG


and ream:

P1010633.JPG


And now, a timesaver. Having eyeballed the hole location and been satisfied, I installed the Kurt vise stop I made:

P1010634.JPG


Now I can remove the collet block, install a new rod blank, and get the whole thing back exactly in the right spot to continue drilling and reaming the remaining 11 con rods.

If you don't have a vise stop, they're darned handy. I made mine as a fun project to learn how to make split cotters:

http://www.thewarfields.com/cnccookbook/MTMillKurtViseStop.htm

<continued>
 
Next stop is rounding over the small ends. I discussed how I did this with an old drill chuck on another thread:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2094.msg16973;topicseen#new

Stop in over there for the scoop. Here is the batch of con rods:

P1010713.JPG


They could still use a little TLC with my needle files and perhaps some polish, but they're not bad. Here is the rig I use for filing:

P1010711.JPG


Getting pretty darned close to the finish line here!

Cheers,

BW
 
Everybody,


I was talking to Chuck Fellows re his horizontal single and it struck me, why not consider it for our next team build? It is an IC style engine, with a similar cam actuated valving, nice size and great sound, he is making up drawings from an existing working model, and there are plenty of parts to go around, yet nothing too insanely difficult. It might be a nice warm up for an IC project. I asked him if he would mind if we used it for a team build and he said that would be fine.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2088.msg16917#msg16917

Thoughts?????

-Bret
 
My 6 bearing blocks are complete. I've got a little anxiety about how well everything will fit together!

I've checked my parts about a hundred times!!! ;D
 
Addresses have been sent via e-mail any questions let me know
Tin
 
sent the addresses and distribution info out today via emailI just need wes's and mikes to compete the list.
Tin
 
Tin:

5 bearing blocks went in the mail this morning. Given the fact that Canada Post was the organization that coined the term "snail mail" you should see them in a week to ten days......

Joe

 
Having just read all of the threads in this section, I can only say "bravo!"

I found this site from a link at the HSM website. I will be taking a machining course at a local tech college this summer (lathe to begin with, mill in the fall, with others to follow). I'm about to begin building an attached garage/shop, and hope to have it finished by September. I don't have either a mill or a lathe at present, but a good friend has both.

At some point I would be very interested in being part of a team, once I have some more experience as well as the equipment. I became interested in machining as a means to produce parts for automotive uses, but these model engines are fascinating (the small size of the parts is pretty intimidating as well).

Keep up the good work, as I will be "avidly lurking".
 
4 bearing blocks went out this morning. Need one more address to send out 5th. I know Tin is waiting on this address so it will go out when he gets the address.
 
Fellas, I'm mostly done on the con rod and flywheels. I need to polish the flywheels, and inspect everything one last time before sending them on. I've got a new job that's keeping me very busy, so it'll likely be a couple weeks yet. Will keep you posted. I assume that since we need to make cranks and so on I'm not holding anyone up too badly.

Cheers,

BW
 
BobWarfield said:
Fellas, I'm mostly done on the con rod and flywheels. I need to polish the flywheels, and inspect everything one last time before sending them on. I've got a new job that's keeping me very busy, so it'll likely be a couple weeks yet. Will keep you posted. I assume that since we need to make cranks and so on I'm not holding anyone up too badly.

Cheers,

BW

I don't think we are holding up yet. I won't be done til next week either.

Eric
 
I'm done , just need to finish the wooden bases, next week I can mail everything, if anyone knows of some dome head brass wood screws about 1/2" long to fix the engine to the wood base, please let me know, as they're like hens teeth here, I have a few, but not enough for everyone, I'll keep looking ,anyway I'm sure we can get over that!

Giles
 
Update here:
Mike is feeling a little better as he is posting some but I received a pm from him a couple days ago that he is still not ready /able to do much shop stuff so will not be making parts for the TB. We do have someone stepping up to make the parts.
Tin
 
Guys seems like things are moving along almost as planned.
JoeD received the package yesterday.
as far as the cranks GailinNM will be pinch hitting for mike.
Tin
 
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