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A couple years ago I set up a lathe for a buddy a NOS Edestall lathe. no tooling no motor I found a tread mill along the side of the road that had a USA made 1hp DC motor and controller power supply. Made a couple of back plates from a chunk of cast iron from mcmaster carr and installed a 4 jaw chuck from the local harbor freight. then added a surplus Bodine 60 :1 geared motor to power feed the longitudinal feed. Then threw in a set of electronic calipers becase the lathe was metric. I also modified the pulleys to take a pair of gates belts as i literally ate o -ring belts in a matter of 10-15 minutes.
not the best angle but you should get the idea.

Machinex5a.jpg


Machinex5c.jpg



the full scoop here for you history buffs lol.
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=19156&highlight=tin+Falcon
Tin


 
Forgive what seems to be the most basic of questions. I've used Sjogren and the Jacobs rubber-flex type chucks on large (>13") lathes. Yes, their are convenient. Why would I want a collet chuck instead of a spindle nose adapter and drawtube? It seems that the latter would be easier to make. What is the advantage of the collet chuck, when you have to remove the lathe chuck to use it?
 
reggie98 said:
Forgive what seems to be the most basic of questions. I've used Sjogren and the Jacobs rubber-flex type chucks on large (>13") lathes. Yes, their are convenient. Why would I want a collet chuck instead of a spindle nose adapter and drawtube? It seems that the latter would be easier to make. What is the advantage of the collet chuck, when you have to remove the lathe chuck to use it?
Often there's not room in the spindle for the collet-- typical on the 7x, 8x, 9x and 10x lathes when dealing with 5C. Also you can move the collet chuck and work to another machine without losing the part. Btw, I use a drawtube on my 12x..
 
A test run on hot air. Still have a lot of clean up work/rework to do.



Musical accompaniment courtesy of an unknowing niece in another room ;).

Jim
 
Here it is , the water pump . The original design is from the Model Engine Builder magazine from a few months ago.

I scaled it down to get a proper size. The bolts are 0-80 and the impeller is brass, 1 in dia.

As in any small things, sealing is a problem! For the fromt cover, I used a large O-ring that did the trick. Same for the intake hub, it is mounted on two small O-rings so that it can be adjusted in any direction.

As to the main (power) shaft, that is a different story. I made a very small "kind of" cup shaped seal from delrin which seals okay when circulating water but if I presurize the pump, it leaks through the bearings.

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Here are a few shots of the complete engine.

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From the back side
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A crankshaft close-up
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The little burner from salvages medical gases manifolds ...
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A couple weeks ago, I ran the engine with water for about an hour and it ran just fine.
Unfortunately, I made a HUGE MISTAKE when I stoped it. Knowing that I would put it aside for a while, I wanted to make sure to drain water completely from the system so I blew into the tube. Error, I then pressurized the pump, which made water to make its way through the bearings without noticing. A few days later, when I wanted to spin the pump, the bearings had seized :(

After turning it a few times by hand, I got it to move ut not as free as it used to be. Not free enough to be turned with a Stirling. I'll most likely have to replace the bearings.

If you guys have ideas on making a good seal around a .187 in shaft without too much drrag, feel free advise.
 
LL:
You may as well delete this post;
The latest version of Mach 3 is available as a free download from their web site. As for the license it is my understanding it is non transferable.
Sharing copies of Licensed software is considered piracy, is illegal and not allowed here.
Tin
 
One thing I need to practice with is turning a shaft to size. most of the time I over shoot and go undersized. I did this on the crank mains. and the bearings fit loose so I ordered some bearings from Granger that were undersized and made to be pressfit onto a 0.500" shaft and they fit nicely. I also need to work on finish passes but I think that is mostly my tooling. (cheap carbide 38 piece kit for $20.00) I just ordered HSS blanks from Enco and am going to try to cut my own. I think this will work better. And Man I need a DRO.



P9070017.JPG
 
EVERYONE PLEASE BEAR WITH ME.

I JUST HOSED UP THE DATABASE!
 
I needed a place to put things till I can get them sorted out.
 
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