Tin Falcon
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Guys looks like things are falling into place set all an e-mail this AM
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Tin Falcon
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sent an e-mail today to all team members I think I have all address except Mikes.
Tin
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First off I want to express by best wishes to Mike and wish him a speedy recovery so he can get back to building toys. We all owe a debt to Mike for his efforts in making this site work the way it does. For anyone who does not know it, Mike is the technical expert that keeps this site running and, when practical, upgrades it according to any suggestions or wants that we have. I was most happy to be able to help Mike out in my own small way.
The crankshaft parts are packed and ready to go out in the morning mail.
I went back to the 3-48 threads on the crank disk and mating crank pins to give a little more bearing surface between the 1/8 diameter on the crank pin and the crank disk. I was concerned about the pins staying perpendicular to the crank disk. Since I was making both parts I figured that no one would care.
As they might be hard for some to find, I included a 2-56 set screw and the mating 0.035 hex wrench with each set of parts. The set screw is installed in the crank disc as it is so small it might be easy to get lost.
Mentioned in the text, but not included on the plans are spacers for the crank shaft to center it up if necessary. I included 4ea 3/8 x 3/16 x 0.010 PTFE washers as they were easy for me to make.
The text describes the crankshaft as though it does not have a flat on it for the crank disc set screw to bear on so the crank disc can be rotated to make a fine adjustment on the valve timing. The drawing shows a flat. I put the flat on as shown in the drawing. If anyone wants to adjust the timing, rotate the crank shaft 180 degrees so the set screw is opposite the flat. Doing this will reverse the direction of the engine rotation with respect to the reversing valve position,
Gail in NM,USA
The crankshaft parts are packed and ready to go out in the morning mail.
I went back to the 3-48 threads on the crank disk and mating crank pins to give a little more bearing surface between the 1/8 diameter on the crank pin and the crank disk. I was concerned about the pins staying perpendicular to the crank disk. Since I was making both parts I figured that no one would care.
As they might be hard for some to find, I included a 2-56 set screw and the mating 0.035 hex wrench with each set of parts. The set screw is installed in the crank disc as it is so small it might be easy to get lost.
Mentioned in the text, but not included on the plans are spacers for the crank shaft to center it up if necessary. I included 4ea 3/8 x 3/16 x 0.010 PTFE washers as they were easy for me to make.
The text describes the crankshaft as though it does not have a flat on it for the crank disc set screw to bear on so the crank disc can be rotated to make a fine adjustment on the valve timing. The drawing shows a flat. I put the flat on as shown in the drawing. If anyone wants to adjust the timing, rotate the crank shaft 180 degrees so the set screw is opposite the flat. Doing this will reverse the direction of the engine rotation with respect to the reversing valve position,
Gail in NM,USA
Tin Falcon
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Mike I need your address !! You are still part of the TEAM and will get an engine !!!
the one originally slated for Auction will be yours and will come to you assembled.
Eric and I kind of made a command decision on this but do not think anyone would have a problem with the Idea.
As a follow up to this I was wondering I think most of us are doing overruns to insure enough good parts . I was thinking that there could be enough parts kicking around for engine 13 that could be auctioned. Are there enough spares out there?? Or maybe very close just a thought if you have "extra parts" let myself or Eric know
Tin
the one originally slated for Auction will be yours and will come to you assembled.
Eric and I kind of made a command decision on this but do not think anyone would have a problem with the Idea.
As a follow up to this I was wondering I think most of us are doing overruns to insure enough good parts . I was thinking that there could be enough parts kicking around for engine 13 that could be auctioned. Are there enough spares out there?? Or maybe very close just a thought if you have "extra parts" let myself or Eric know
Tin
I despritly want a IC engine, and more so to be part of the team build process. wont be for a while still :'(
have you guys thought of websters 4 stroke? it seems like a nice engine to get a understanding for bigger IC's.
plans are free 8) and im sure he would love to put it up on his site also.
http://home.comcast.net/~webster_engines/
its a messy runner, but it has endless possibility's for modification.
just wanted to throw it out there.
or even his ngez engine?
have you guys thought of websters 4 stroke? it seems like a nice engine to get a understanding for bigger IC's.
plans are free 8) and im sure he would love to put it up on his site also.
http://home.comcast.net/~webster_engines/
its a messy runner, but it has endless possibility's for modification.
just wanted to throw it out there.
or even his ngez engine?
Here's a pic of one of the wooden sub-bases, I'll be sending them in the next couple of days, I've been really busy with other stuff, I've had a job to find real brass screws here but I'll send what I've managed to find, I couldn't find dome headed ones. If you decide to use them, you'll need to countersink a bit and also drill the wood (which is VERY hard!) you all may have your own fixings, but I'm sending a few extras for everyone because it's easy to mess up the slots on the screws (and shear them!), just use one or two to make the seat and then put new ones in.
Giles
Giles
zeusrekning
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Man, These thing are going to be sweet. I think everyones work looks top notch. I think we may prove the nay sayers wrong. I am begining to question the quality of my cylinder now ;D
Tim
Tim
Brass_Machine
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I second that.
Amazing work!
Eric
Amazing work!
Eric
zeusrekning
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I just went out and installed the crank into the bearing block (another beautiful part). It wouldn't slide through easily :-[ I put the crank into the drill press with a little lapping coumpound and after a couple minutes it spins perfectly. The fit couldn't of been better with out being provided together. As I have said before, this is my first model engine so I had no idea what to expect. If I wasn't hooked already I am now.
Tim
Tim
I third that. Beautiful parts Gail!
I sent your bearing block out yesterday via DHL. I think the bearing blocks I did came out pretty good but I need to work on my polishing skills. From the looks of the other parts I definitely have a lot of room to grow! :bow:
I sent your bearing block out yesterday via DHL. I think the bearing blocks I did came out pretty good but I need to work on my polishing skills. From the looks of the other parts I definitely have a lot of room to grow! :bow:
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Thank your for your kind comments gentlemen.
All the packages were mailed Monday, so everyone who is receiving theirs direct should see it by Saturday. Powder Keg, you are the exception. The post office decided that yours should be a First class package and not first class mail. They returned it for additional postage. I think the parts stacked up on each other and made it too thick. It was re-mailed this morning,Thursday, so you will probably get it next Monday.
I feel bad because I had the easy parts. I never polish except enough to remove the machine marks, and only then if it shows. My parts are mostly hidden so they only got a hint of polishing. I am not good at it so I think that my engines look better with a clean satin finish rather than a poor polish job. This engine surely will be the best polished one in my display case. When the team build was first discussed I would have expected the parts to be machined and only rough polished, not the quality of work that everyone is displaying.
Tim, I made the crankshaft at 0.1868 diameter nominal. That would leave 0.0007 inch clearance if the bearing holes were spot on, but of course they never are. I normally like to have about 0.0010 to 0.0015 clearance on plain bearings unless they are hardened and lapped, so I set them a little tighter in case the reamer used on the bearings ran a little bit over. Most reamers in brass cut a few tenths over. I figured that if they were a little tight because the reamer was cutting the right size or a little bit under then everyone would do just as you did and polish one or the other until they fit.
The team build is interesting as it compares to what happens in the commercial world where there may be 10 parts being made by 10 different vendors. However, in the commercial world the drawings would have tolerances for all the dimensions, and if the parts are made to print then the parts will fit. Hobby drawings rarely have tolerances and only a nominal size is dimensioned. The hobby machinist is expected to adjust the sizes to make the parts fit on an individual basis. I think hat we can expect to make a few adjustments as we assemble the engines. Most of this will be due to the nature of the drawings. I doubt that there will be ANY problems due to workmanship.
Congratulations to everyone involved as this all comes together. In particular congratulations to Brass Machine and Tin Falcon for doing the administrative work necessary for this to happen. And finally as we are each doing our individual assembling, keep Mike in mind. I am only here to to help Mike out, not to replace him. After all, nobody can replace Mike.
Am I correct in my thinking that everyone will post photos of their finished engines here? I hope so.
Gail in NM, USA
The later it gets the more long winded I become. Sorry.
All the packages were mailed Monday, so everyone who is receiving theirs direct should see it by Saturday. Powder Keg, you are the exception. The post office decided that yours should be a First class package and not first class mail. They returned it for additional postage. I think the parts stacked up on each other and made it too thick. It was re-mailed this morning,Thursday, so you will probably get it next Monday.
I feel bad because I had the easy parts. I never polish except enough to remove the machine marks, and only then if it shows. My parts are mostly hidden so they only got a hint of polishing. I am not good at it so I think that my engines look better with a clean satin finish rather than a poor polish job. This engine surely will be the best polished one in my display case. When the team build was first discussed I would have expected the parts to be machined and only rough polished, not the quality of work that everyone is displaying.
Tim, I made the crankshaft at 0.1868 diameter nominal. That would leave 0.0007 inch clearance if the bearing holes were spot on, but of course they never are. I normally like to have about 0.0010 to 0.0015 clearance on plain bearings unless they are hardened and lapped, so I set them a little tighter in case the reamer used on the bearings ran a little bit over. Most reamers in brass cut a few tenths over. I figured that if they were a little tight because the reamer was cutting the right size or a little bit under then everyone would do just as you did and polish one or the other until they fit.
The team build is interesting as it compares to what happens in the commercial world where there may be 10 parts being made by 10 different vendors. However, in the commercial world the drawings would have tolerances for all the dimensions, and if the parts are made to print then the parts will fit. Hobby drawings rarely have tolerances and only a nominal size is dimensioned. The hobby machinist is expected to adjust the sizes to make the parts fit on an individual basis. I think hat we can expect to make a few adjustments as we assemble the engines. Most of this will be due to the nature of the drawings. I doubt that there will be ANY problems due to workmanship.
Congratulations to everyone involved as this all comes together. In particular congratulations to Brass Machine and Tin Falcon for doing the administrative work necessary for this to happen. And finally as we are each doing our individual assembling, keep Mike in mind. I am only here to to help Mike out, not to replace him. After all, nobody can replace Mike.
Am I correct in my thinking that everyone will post photos of their finished engines here? I hope so.
Gail in NM, USA
The later it gets the more long winded I become. Sorry.
Brass_Machine
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Those are good Ideas speedy. I have really been considering Chucks Horizontal Single as well.
Why can't you be involved in the next build?
Eric
Why can't you be involved in the next build?
Eric
Tin Falcon
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My hat is also off to Gail.
He was enlisted as part of the team last minute ,so so speak to pinch hit for Mike then told to sit on the bench again then told he was up to bat. Looks like a home run Gail. I have not opened the package but I am sure everything is in order.
Tin
He was enlisted as part of the team last minute ,so so speak to pinch hit for Mike then told to sit on the bench again then told he was up to bat. Looks like a home run Gail. I have not opened the package but I am sure everything is in order.
Tin
Tin Falcon
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Giles the bases look great. I am realy looking forward to seeing what these engines look like when assembled. the beading on the edge of the meta l is great.
Tin
Tin
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