Ford Quadricycle

Discussion in 'A Work In Progress' started by vascon2196, Nov 8, 2012.

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  1. Nov 14, 2017 #361

    vascon2196

    vascon2196

    vascon2196

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    So the engine has been running great (off one cylinder only). I We took the piston out of the non-working cylinder today and discovered 2 scratches on the bore running lengthwise with the cylinder. This is where we are losing our compression. After further inspection we noticed the wrist pin was sticking out slightly on one end...the same side as where the cylinder bore scratches were! The left and right (0 and 180) edges of the wrist pin were dragging along the cylinder wall.

    So, I bought new rings, re-honed with a flex-hone, ran in the engine with it belted to our lathe, and put it all back together. We are still losing compression but it may fix itself over time...I'm not sure.

    I may have to take the entire engine apart and have that one "bad" cylinder bore professionally honed slightly larger. BUT, I may have to make a custom Piston to chase the difference.

    Any tips and tricks to share with us will be greatly appreciated!
     
  2. Nov 14, 2017 #362

    stevehuckss396

    stevehuckss396

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    What's the bore size and cylinder length. I might be able to hone the cylinders if not to large or long.
     
  3. Nov 15, 2017 #363

    vascon2196

    vascon2196

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    Hi Steve...I'll double check in the AM. The pistons are from a Maytag Model-92 gas engine....length about 6 to 8 inches I'm guessing. Again, I'll double check...thank you!
     
  4. Nov 16, 2017 #364

    johwen

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    Hi,
    Just an Idea to find the compression leak Put the cylinder with the leak on top dead centre with both alves closed and prssurise the cylinder through the spark plughole and see where the leak is coming from. Some oil in the cylinder will show up the leak. Cheers and keep up the great work.
    John Samphier
     
  5. Nov 17, 2017 #365

    vascon2196

    vascon2196

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    Thanks John...but all the air leaks past the 3 piston rings due to those two horizontal scratches. I thought the flex-hone would work but it didn't...air still leaks. I have to have it professionally honed and may have to make a bigger piston now...not sure. Thanks though!
     
  6. Nov 17, 2017 #366

    Toolguy

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    A friend has had good success with scored small engine cylinders by filling the grooves with J B Weld, then sanding to match the surrounding metal. Might be worth a try before doing something more involved.
     
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  7. Nov 18, 2017 #367

    vascon2196

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    Hi Steve...sorry for the late response. The bore size is 2-1/2" with a length around 8 to 8-1/2". We are testing the engine on gasoline next week...if the other cylinder fires we might be good to go....but I'll keep you in mind.

    Thanks again...this 5 year project was supposed to be done 2 years ago, lol
     
  8. Nov 18, 2017 #368

    stevehuckss396

    stevehuckss396

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    So you are right on schedule. Hahaha!!
     
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  9. Nov 28, 2017 #369

    vascon2196

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    So the students ran the engine over the Thanksgiving break and both cylinders were firing! The only problem was that one of the Crank arms started to rotate and gall the key, which threw off the timing, and back fired. When the engine back fired it sheared both keys. So now we have to make 2 new crank arms and add new keys and probably key seats also...we'll see.

    At least both cylinders are firing very strong!
     
  10. Nov 29, 2017 #370

    stevehuckss396

    stevehuckss396

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    progress!!
     
  11. Feb 16, 2018 #371

    vascon2196

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    One crank arm complete along with one drive key. We also installed the muffler. We added grease fitting to the drive axle. Still fooling around with the ignition timer...I don't like where it is. The engine will back fire if it's not turned over hard enough to get over the initial compression. But we are chugging along like a snail.
     
  12. Feb 16, 2018 #372

    stevehuckss396

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    Glad to hear you are still plugging away. Looking forward to the video of you taking the first spin around the campus.
     
  13. Feb 16, 2018 #373

    Charles Lamont

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    Is it not adjustable? (I can't remember what you may have said about it, and don't have time right now to look back.) I would have expected you to retard the ignition for starting and to adjust it once running.
     
  14. Mar 31, 2018 #374

    vascon2196

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    We had to take the flywheel off the engine to repair the cranks. While the flywheel was off I decided to finally switch the inside frame angle irons which was a big pain because everything had to come off!

    Anyway, it's done, angle irons switched, re-assembled. Notches were milled into the angle irons for crank clearance.

    20180320_155531.jpg

    20180320_182450.jpg

    20180320_155537.jpg
     
  15. Mar 31, 2018 #375

    stevehuckss396

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    Holy smokes thats alot of work. Where is the project at? By that I mean whats left?
     
  16. Apr 1, 2018 #376

    vascon2196

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    Next steps:

    Press crank arms onto ends of crankshaft and re-install flywheel ass'y

    Re-design contact on flywheel for better ignition timer

    Hinge the seat

    Install gas and water tanks with all the plumbing

    Add cotter pins/lock nuts to all fasteners

    Test the engine outside, adjust carb, etc

    Then see if it moves a person!
     
  17. Sep 7, 2018 #377

    JRD56

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    Hello, I realize I'm rather late in joining this conversation, but I was wondering how to go about getting plans/drawings for the Quadricycle. I've been unable to figure out how to get the original George De Angelis plans or the plans developed for the New England Institute of Technology project. Perhaps someone could clarify the latest information on obtaining plans. Thanks
    JRD56
     
  18. Sep 7, 2018 #378

    olympic

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    Both the quadricycle and the Olds are terrific!

    And I have a garage....
     
  19. Sep 7, 2018 #379

    vascon2196

    vascon2196

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    George DeAngelis plans can be purchased through Dave Dunlavy...his contact information is somewhere on this thread. Also, we are having major difficulties timing the engine...if anyone has timed the full size Quadricycle engine and have some tips and tricks please let us know. We decided to try the original electrical timer and can't figure it out.
     
  20. Sep 7, 2018 #380

    JRD56

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    Thanks, I have sent a message to Dave Dunlavy, but have not received a reply, I'll keep trying. While I've not built my engine yet, I have studied the ignition timing some and I've built quite a few engines (automotive) over the years. I don't know what you are using for an ignition system but typically you fire the spark plug just before the piston reaches top dead center. On an automotive engine the harmonic balancer (which is on the crankshaft) is typically marked so you can use a timing light to check the timing. The timing light is triggered by the No.1 spark plug wire and you can twist the distributor to achieve the desired timing. I assume you are triggering the ignition from some sort of mechanism on the flywheel. You could put a mark on the flywheel and a reference point mark on the frame so that they line up when the piston is at top dead center. You could then use a timing light to check the timing and set it so it fires just before top dead center. There are several economical battery powered timing lights on the market. You need to make sure you are on the correct cylinder based on the rocker arm (distributor arm) position. You may also want to ensure the exhaust valve timing is correct as it will have an impact on combustion which may appear as a timing issue.
     

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