Ford Quadricycle

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JRD56

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Thanks for the response Chris. My idea was to get the engine running using a modern carb and then implement Henry's original design. Sounds like the carb was just too big for the engine. Sizing a carb can be tricky, too big and it will run too rich. Too small and it will run too lean which can cause it too run too hot. I've actually got a small carb from an old 5HP Briggs and Stratton I'll probably try first. No need to spend time sending me the part number. Would be nice to see another video when you get time. Thanks again.
 

vascon2196

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Thanks for the response Chris. My idea was to get the engine running using a modern carb and then implement Henry's original design. Sounds like the carb was just too big for the engine. Sizing a carb can be tricky, too big and it will run too rich. Too small and it will run too lean which can cause it too run too hot. I've actually got a small carb from an old 5HP Briggs and Stratton I'll probably try first. No need to spend time sending me the part number. Would be nice to see another video when you get time. Thanks again.
Briggs carb might work great! Videos coming soon....I have to figure out how to get them off my phone!
 

vascon2196

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Hello! We ran the engine and the crankshaft key came loose! We can't win. I had everything welded! Now nothing will move or break....oh boy. But now we definitely need to balance the flywheel. We are going to take 2 pieces of linear shafting and make them parallel. Sit the flywheel on them and let the it rotate to the heavy side...then play with adding and subtracting weight. I have never done it and have no idea how to...but that is the plan. Any help here would be greatly appreciated! I'm assuming it has to be balanced without the counterweight...then the counterweight has to weigh as much as the connecting rods, wrist pins, and pistons right? I'm very much looking forward to finishing this project.
 

vascon2196

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Hello! Question....is there anything that can withstand higher temps than Viton? For an O-Ring?

We are using Viton o-rings as head gaskets but they melted. Is there anything better?

Please and thank you...this may be the only thing preventing us from finally completing our Quadricycle replica.

Thanks again!

Chris Vasconcelos
 

radial1951

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Annealed copper "o-rings" are perfect. Many race engines use that method. But can be a pain to machine the copper rings, unless there is some other way to make them.
An easier alternative in this case would/might be annealed aluminium rings. You only need a few thous (inches) of crush. Just turn the id and od the same as the Viton O-rings and part them off at the right thickness
The above assumes there is only room for a ring type gasket. If you can use a piece of sheet, even easier...
 

propclock

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I have used Viton extensively for ultra high vacuum applications.
These applications require baking at high temp.
If you "melted" it , it wasn't Viton IMO and if it turned "hard" it is a hazardous material. serious carcinogen. from wikipedia
Precautions[edit]
At high temperatures or in a fire, fluoroelastomers decompose and may release hydrogen fluoride. Any residue must be handled using protective equipment.
 

vascon2196

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I have a video of us driving it but I have no idea how to share it with all of you or upload it here.
 

vascon2196

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How did you solve the head gasket issue?
Hi Steve! Long story about why it happened but here goes. The cylinders were welded to the manifold plate (plate that exhaust heads mount to with fasteners). The cylinders were bored, honed, and faced before it was welded which means the end faces where the exhaust heads are seated were not flat. The area where it was welded allowed air to leak out when testing compression. I made new exhaust heads that had a Boss or male pilot that inserted into the cylinder bore about a half inch, and this pilot had a groove for an O-ring. The O-ring prevented any air from escaping after the exhaust heads were fastened in place and allowed us to run the engine. But the O-rings were now inside the combustion chamber and melted within minutes. We removed the O-rings from the inside of the combustion chamber and I added a thin automotive gasket between the exhaust manifold and the manifold plate. I bought a sheet of generic gasket material from Auto Zone for less than $10 and it holds the compression and heat. Should have just done that in the beginning.

Anyway...now our leather drive belt keeps slipping. The car moves at a snails pace so we have to adjust the tension.

Just a few days a go the timing gear KEY sheared right off the crankshaft. Yet another problem to deal with. We welded the cranks on which means we cannot remove the gear to repair the key! Lol, so we will be welding the timing gear onto the crankshaft. I'm both frustrated and relieved that this project is very near to completion. Just posted a video.

Chris
 

stevehuckss396

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That is awesome!

Can you smear a little pine sap/tar on the belt to aid in friction. There has to be some kind of natural belt dressing that won't make a huge mess.

Maybe that gear can be cross drilled and reamed so a hardened taper pin can be installed? Or drill to 1/4 inch and put a high grade nut and bolt through it? I don't know how big the gear is or weather or not it has a hub.
 

a41capt

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Batters resin should give you the necessary “grab” on the drive belt. I use a powdered resin on the leather inserts for my gun barrel vise in order to ensure no slippage when tightening my newly finished gun barrels into the action.

The quadricycle looks great, and it’s nice seeing it run!

John W
Camp Verde, AZ
 

BBrown

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I was wondering if by chance you have posted the drawing or I just missed the link? Thanks
 

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