Elmer's #45 by Trout

[Troutsqueezer]

Howdy Folks,

I am starting my third engine build today, continuing with the Elmer series.

Spring is here and the Honeydew list is growing by the day so this build will be at a leisurely pace. Whenever I have an update ready I'm sure I'll be fishing this thread out from a few pages back in the archives.

I've picked Elmer's #45 for three reasons: 1) I don't see a build for it here already. 2) The cylinder looks like it will pose a challenge (for me) to machine. 3) I need to develop my skills at making nice flywheels (finally putting my RT to good use).

This is a compound design as opposed to double-acting where the valve design feeds the exhaust from the high pressure side to the low pressure side. Should be interesting.

Here's what I am starting with:

I soon discovered my first obstacle is how to slice a .5" piece from the 3" aluminum rod you see in the pic. Not having a band saw makes this a challenge. I'm thinking angle grinder...

-T

 

[GordTopps]

A hacksaw with a 16 tpi blade should take care of that, take your time and it should only take about 20 mins.

I wouldn't even think obout an angle grinder on aluminium

Thats my 2¢ or centimos worth anyway

Regards
Gordy

 

[arnoldb]

Hi T - you beat me to this one ;D - Looking forward to your build!

As Gordy said, I'd seriously advise you not to try an angle grinder on the aluminium. The blade is bound to clog up very quickly and will most likely jam at some point and possibly shatter.

If you can fit that lump on your lathe, you can center drill it before chucking up with tailstock support, and part it down as deep as you can, then finish the parting with a hacksaw outside of the lathe. An added bonus to this is that you could clean up the "rim" and face it part-way on the tailstock side before you part it, then you'll have a good clean start to making the rest of the flywheel as well.

Regards, Arnold

 

[mklotz]

Last engine I built, I needed two 4" diameter slices for flywheels. I packed up my measuring gear and my breath-powered engine and headed off to my aluminum supplier.

It was a slow day at the metal yard so one of the employees offered to help me find what I needed. I thanked him but told him that I didn't want to waste his time since I was only going to buy a few small pieces to build a steam engine.

"Wow, you build steam engines! That's neat. I'd love to see one."

At which point I pulled the miniature out of my pocket and did an impromptu demonstration. To say he was gobsmacked is pure understatement.

He found me a chunk of 4" and asked if it was big enough.

"Plenty, I only need two 1/2" slices."

"Want me to cut it for you?"

"How much will that cost?"

"$2.50 a cut, but I'll do it for you for nothing."

Saving the $5 wasn't that big a deal but the alternative would have been to buy the whole ~10" long piece which I might never use so the savings was much more than the $5, not to mention it would have taken forever on my little bandsaw and I'd never have gotten the perfect cut his cold saw could deliver.

Take your avatar meisterblingstück with you and go shopping. You might get lucky.

 

[Tin Falcon]

the other approach to making a flywheel is start with plate. Mark where you want tthe center of the wheel. center punch a mark scribe a circle and cut out. I have a grizzly bench top saw that is meant for wood but cut ali and brass on it on a regular basis. then center drill your punch mark put the rough cut blank against a face plate(Or a piece of faced off stock in the chuck backed with a sheet of rubber. You need a bit of finesse and patience as the interrupted cut wants to grab and hold the part. And a bit of spray glue can hold the rubber in place as well. sticky tape also works here instead of the rubber. . you want something with enough thickness that you can finish the rim without cutting into your face plate. Oh yeah the most important thing hold the plate against the face plate with your center. otherwise the thing will be ripped of the face plate quicker than a wink.
Tin

 

[mklotz]

As a follow-on to what Tin wrote...

If your flywheel will be spoked, drill and tap holes in the plate in the areas that will be cut away when the spokes are formed. Attach the plate to the faceplate with screws from behind.

 

[kvom]

I have a 6' stick of 3" diameter 6061 and a bandsaw. I can, slice off a couple of pieces and mail them to you.

 

[Troutsqueezer]

First question Gordy: Does the estimated 20 minutes of hacksaw time include the "saw for two minutes, rest for 10 minutes" scenario I would be employing? ;D

Arnold, I'm thinking a rod of this size and weight might be quite a load for my HF mini lathe but as you suggested, it probably won't even fit on my lathe, the jaws would probably stop short of opening wide enough. Now if I had that Monarch I saw for sale on Craigslist today...

Take your avatar meisterblingstück with you and go shopping. You might get lucky.

This is an area I need to work on. The metal yards I've been to so far in the Sacramento area don't seem to be too friendly. My main supplier (Blue Collar Supply) acts like they're doing you a favor by letting you purchase from them. There's got to be something else around here and I'll find them sooner or later.

As for the face plate approach, that is something I've taken notice of in other posts. Those extra pieces of fairly thick aluminum I've been stocking up on will come in handy for this. And starting the wheel from a plate was my first intention but yesterday at the metal store I saw that 3" rod and realized I could get seven or eight flywheels just by slicing it up. :idea: oh:

kvom, that's a very nice offer and I appreciate that very much! Perhaps though, since I'm in the learning phase I should keep working on expanding my skills, tools and connections (as Marv reminded me).

Angle grinding: I've read the theory as to how grinders behave on aluminum and why they won't work but oddly enough, I read that tidbit of information after I had used my angle grinder on some pretty thick aluminum and easily obtained the various sizes and shapes I was looking for. The key learning for me there was that a smaller Ryobi grinder fit with a thin cutting wheel will slice thru aluminum like nobody's business. The lesser amount of horsepower in the smaller grinder kept me in control of the grabbing. I've never had the wheel shatter but I wear full protection, including hearing. Ask me about tinnitus sometime. :-[ The other part of the key learning is that my huge metal cutoff saw with its 15 amp current draw and 14" blade failed miserably to the task and would blow the circuit breaker as it heated the piece of aluminum quite nicely.

Thanks for the replies guys. Something for me to think about until I can get back into the work shed.

-Trout

 

[BigBore]

COPY/PASTE/EDIT/SPELL CHECK/COPY/PASTE/EDIT/SPELL CHECK..................

All right! Cool beans! Here we go again..... woohoo1

I am just SO thankful for HMEM and the builds that you guys do. Trout, love your work....Let's do this!

Ed

 

[Troutsqueezer]

Hey Guys,

It's been about three weeks, time for an update, albeit a small one on a simple engine. Been lots of stuff on the honeydew list lately so shop time has been scarce.

When last I left it I was pondering how best to cut the 3" aluminum rod. I drug out the larger angle grinder and put a thin disk on it and it took about three minutes to slice this thing. Not a clean cut, nor the best way to do it I know. I thought later about using my Sawzall with a metal blade. Next time I'll try that.

Welding magnets continue to be a handy item around the shop. I don't have a DRO setup on my lathe for compound movement yet but a magnet in the right place with a dial makes it easy enough to set the depth on the recess in the spoke area.

What a stringy mess an aluminum flywheel can make. This is after I've cleaned it up once or twice.

Drilled slightly under .25" and reamed to size.

Getting ready to cut the spokes. First order of business was to center the workpiece on the RT.

Next is to center it to the spindle. I'll be using Bog's technique to locate and cut the spokes. This is from a thread he started a little while back to educate us newbies (thanks Bogs).

In betwixt I made the base and cut some brass parts for the bearings and cylinder. Pretty simple stuff.

Thanks for looking! Till next time..... Trout.

 

[bearcar1]

Nice neat and clean looking work so far Trout'. Looks like it will be a beauty when you are all through.

BC1
Jim

 

[mklotz]

You might also want to check out the FLYWHEEL program on my site. It will simplify the layout - especially so if you intend to make tapered spokes.

It's normally free but, just for you, I'll only charge $5. :big:

 

[Troutsqueezer]

Thanks guys.

Marv, if you could post your address here, I'll send something to you.
-T

 

[SAM in LA]

Trout,

I'm following this build closely. I enjoy reading about and seeing your work progress. After your last build, I am anxious to see how you finish this one.

SAM

 

[mklotz]

Marv, if you could post your address here, I'll send something to you.
-T

I'll just bet you would! If you have any problems with the program, give me a shout. My email addy is in my profile.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Nice idea Trout with the magnet.
Creative solutions like that is an area I wish I could be more clever about.
I'm hoping it comes with experience.

 

[mklotz]

Creative solutions like that is an area I wish I could be more clever about.
I'm hoping it comes with experience.

Part of the secret is to begin looking at things in terms of their function and not their form. For example, a connecting rod is something to hold two holes a given distance apart. Once you can do that, problem solutions leap right out at you.

"Form follows function" is not just a tiresome cliche. It's a nutshell description of the whole design process.

 

[Troutsqueezer]

Sometimes Mother Nature works in my favor, like today, when it rained and I couldn't do most of the things on my wife's to-do list! woohoo1

So I did some work on my flywheel. I started with Bog's method for calculating offsets and angles but soon realized it doesn't apply wholly to tapered spokes which then led me to Marv's website. He has a program there catered to tapered spokes. Bummer though! It doesn't like my Windows 7 64 bit system and I don't have an emulator on hand that might handle it. Thanks anyway Marv. Guess I don't owe ya five bucks now!

Actually, the math wasn't too bad to calculate the offsets. I started by drilling 6 holes at 60 degree increments with an end mill.

Then I offset in the Y direction 1" and in the X direction by a certain amount to get my outer spoke holes, also using an end mill to plunge drill.

Here I sliced some arcs connecting the two outer spoke holes. I used an end mill one size smaller than the .125" end mill I used to drill the outer holes.

Next I cut the sides of the spokes. Its a little trickier with the offsets since the spokes are tapered.

Milling the opposite side of the spoke cutout.

Now it's roughed in and ready for some cleanup. I will use the original .125" end mill I used to plunge drill the holes and go along the edge for cleanup.

This week I should have something that looks finished, if I don't manage to screw it up. There's still time! oh:

I should mention: This is the first time I have used my new DRO's on the X2. I sure am glad they came out with that $25 version when they did! I can't see milling any other way now. If you have an X2 and no DRO's yet, now's the time. This was also the first time I've used the RT to any extent. Also worth the money.

Back to my hole in the wall...

-Trout

 

[mklotz]

Trout,

Re running my programs under Windows 7...

This issue has come up before and, no doubt, will come up again. It can be done and, with the aid of some of the computer gurus on the forum, we were able to document a workable solution. Go to

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=8600.0

and all will be explained.

 

[Troutsqueezer]

Marv, I've got the program and since I like tapered spokes too I'll be using it on my next flywheel. This time impatience got the best of me.

Only one pic for tonight but I'll tell ya, this pic represents a few hours of work. Flywheels can be a lot of work! I can see why some folks order up the castings. I still have some cleanup to do on the wheel. I'm going to paint the spokes as well as other parts of this engine. Shiny is nice for some things but not all things. Right Marv? ;D