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Discussion in 'Engines From Castings' started by e.picler, Aug 25, 2018.
It will also drive the radiator fan that is not installed on the videos.
Ah, of course! That makes perfect sense.
Here are some information on the radiator build.
Preparing the material for the top and botton tanks
Milling operations done
The fins were drilled using the fixture developed by Steve Hucks (forgot to take pictures)
Machining the recess for the side plate (could be done on the fixture drilling setup but I forgot and to do that)
Fixture for the assembly and soldering the fins on the tubes and top/botton plates
The side plates. The plans calls for brass sheet but I decided to machine it because I do not have a bending device
Continuing with the radiator.
After soldering all the parts on the radiator, I discovered a soldering paste Which produces a lot more clean and nice looking results than the regular soldering wire. I use it on the exaust tubes.
Know how for the future projects.
Next I worked on the exaust sistem
Here are two videos of the Pee Wee almost finished. It is still missing the On/Off ignition switch and the carburator Air Cleaner
Hi Edi, congrats to a very nice looking and running engine.
Top notch work Edi! The radiator turned out very well!
Spectacular - all of it, but that radiator in particular Leaves me speechless!
Just beautiful Edi!
Bengt, John, Awake and Cogsy, thank you very much for your kind words.
Now I'm working on the Air Cleaner. As I finish, I will post the final finished project video.
Beautiful! I read from the beginning, very informative!
Just my 1.414 cents worth, Make your distributor cap out Clear
lexan or Plexiglas and polish. There are many ways for sparks
to go the wrong way in a small distributor. Being able to see the
sparks jump the gap is VERY informative. Especially if you
have adjustable timing. Also people like to see the sparks jump.
Also it is a good idea to put a hole in the distributor somewhere to vent the ozone .
It will corrode badly in there if there is no vent.
Learned this the hard way. Hall sensor turned into crud/dust.
Again beautiful build.
Thank you for the kind words.
Good suggestion the clear distributor cap, I might make one just to see the sparks inside, like you said.
There is a hole on the distributor body. I did that to have access to the screw that holds the rotor on the axis. I did not know about the ozone. Thanks for the tip.
I am now making the air cleaner. The body is already finished. The plans does not have drawings for that. I just machined that from the top of my head.
I think today I will have some Available hours to make the air cleaner cover.
What are you planning to use as a filter? Given the beautiful work on the radiator, maybe you would want to machine up a miniature air filter ... ?
The radiator is a Steve Hucks design.
Yes, I machined a little air filter. The filter element is a regular low-density foam.
Here is a picture of how it come out
With this, the project is finished.
I'm very pleased and happy with how it is running.
I will only touch some parts polishing them to give a nicer look.
Thank you for those that followed this project and also helped me with some hints/suggestions.
A special thanks to Steve Hucks that helped me with a 3D camshaft drawing and clearing some drawing doubts I had.
See you on the next project. It will be the V Twin from George Britnell.
I was actually meaning the filter element - I was thinking you could make a miniature one of these:
Hi to all!
I need some help.
I'm facing a situation with the PeeWee I just finished. The problem is the following.
It starts very easily when it is cold however after it warms up like less than a minute of running it is very difficult to start.
Is it a normal condition for a model engine or is there some problem that I could not figure so far?
How long must it cool before it starts again?
When it dies, does it turn over freely?
After about 30 minutes later it starts easyly again.
Yes when it dies it turns over freely.
Another information, when it is still cool the idle is fearly low and stable.
Could the carb be heating up to much & & "boiling" the fuel?
I'm with John. I think you might be having trouble with heat. Try making a 1/4 inch thick spacer from some type of plastic if you have some on hand. Had the same trouble on the V8 and the spacer worked very well
When it dies, does it bog down till it dies or just shuts off?
You wouldn’t happen to have $3000 in thermal imaging gear to observe temperature distraction would you?
Do the intakes on these get that hot?
They make stuff called “Canned Air” if turned upside down and sprayed thing can get really cold. Would be neat play with that stuff on different components to try to find something hot.
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