Another PeeWee

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Mago

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In the assembled engine take out all the plugs .
Turn the engine till one piston is half way up the cylinder.

Part fill the cylinder with engine oil and turn the engine till the piston refuses to move.
If the piston goes to TDC then you have leaks. Escaping oil will give you a clue as to the culprit.
You may find the head seal is defective, try a Teflon gasket.
Repeat for all cylinders.

Best of luck.

Mago
 

josodl1953

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Hi Edi,
It is not Eduard, it is Edwards Radial 5, but somehow I could not find the post of the leaktest. I give you the pictures.
test1.jpg

Pressure feed is via an adapted glowplug with a piece of tubing soldered on.
test2.jpg

Pipes connected to in- and exhaust ende in a jar of water. If there are bubbles when pressure is applied, then there is a leak. Did you lap the valves? I had to use copper polish to get them leak-free.
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hi to all!

Mago, thanks for your advises. I will use the oil test after installing the new Pistons and Rings.

I already finished the new pistons. Tonight I will make the new rings.

I also gave a very light skin pass on the top of cylinders banks to assure its flatness.

Will make new gaskets. I’m using Teflon


HELP
- Any tips or recommendation on how to install the rings on the piston without deforming or breaking them as well as not scratching the piston?

- How much oil should I fill on the oil pan? I think I over filled the first time


Tks,

Edi
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hi Jos!

OK. A picture is worth of a thousand words! I got it. Very clever test. I will use this method.

Yes, I lapped the valves using Clover Leaf Fine grinding paste. I also re-lap them last night.


Thanks for your help


Tks,

Edi
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hello guys!
Tomorrow I will have the rings finished. I have purchased a circular saw with 0.2mm (.0078in) thickness to split the rings.
I will spring the rings using Bob's method
"To spring the ring, the circularity must be altered, certainly not anywhere near the gap but at it's natural flexure point, which is directly opposite the gap. To do this, lay the ring on a flat, powerful magnet. Place a square steel bar in the gap. Arrange the ring so that the area opposite the gap is off the magnet. The magnet will securely hold the ring and bar and also act as a heat sink. Use a small Butane torch to heat the area directly opposite the gap to a dull red color."

HELP
- Any tips or recommendation on how to install the rings on the piston without deforming or breaking them as well as not scratching the piston?

For those that built the PeeWee
- How much oil should I fill in the oil pan? I think I overfilled the first time

Edi
 

Brian Rupnow

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When I installed cast iron rings on my last engine build I coated the rings and the pistons with #30 motor oil and very carefully worked one side of the ring down over the side of the piston by just the thickness of the ring, then very slowly and carefully worked the rest of the ring down to the same depth. After the ring was in that state I worked one end of the ring down until it was in the ring groove , then worked the rest of the ring down until it was totally in the ring groove. I put the second ring on from the other end of the piston, using the same method. It really helps if you hold your breath, clench your butt cheeks, and mutter a prayer to whichever god you are currently involved with.
 

stevehuckss396

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Edi! Check into the George Trimble method. If you do what Bob says it will most likely cause a flat spot at the point where the ring is heated. Then when the ring is installed it will leave a gap in that spot. Rind will not touch the wall in that spot. George's method will show how to make a fixture to spread the gap but avoid the flat spot.
 

WOB

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Edi! Check into the George Trimble method. If you do what Bob says it will most likely cause a flat spot at the point where the ring is heated. Then when the ring is installed it will leave a gap in that spot. Rind will not touch the wall in that spot. George's method will show how to make a fixture to spread the gap but avoid the flat spot.
Exactly right! You do not alter the "circularity" of the ring. To do so is fatal to the ring's seal against the cylinder wall. The Trimble method works perfectly and if you do it properly you will be rewarded with a near perfect light tight seal before the engine is started for the first time.

WOB
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hi to all!
I'm in dought about the correct firing order of the PeeWee.
Is it 1-3-4-2 or 1-3-2-4?
I found the two information on Bob's drawing page 13 Rev 3.
I first set to 1-3-2-4 and was showing puffs only on the left bank which is cylinders 1 and 3 then I set to 1-3-4-2 and it started showing puffs also on cylinders 2 and 4.

I got confused:(:rolleyes:

Thanks,

Edi
 

gadabout

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Edi, when I put my rings on I wrap a piece of brass shim stock (.004")around the piston with the ends just over lapping and slide the ring over the shim with ring gap opposite the shim overlap and then slide it all down the piston to the ring gap and let the ring slide into the groove . Works for me on the bottom rings nicely as you don't scratch the piston coming up from the bottom . Top ring I just roll into the top groove.

Mark
 

stevehuckss396

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1-3-2-4

If you built it using my drawings the above firing order is correct. It's on the sheet with the cam cutting table.
 

stackerjack

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When I installed cast iron rings on my last engine build I coated the rings and the pistons with #30 motor oil and very carefully worked one side of the ring down over the side of the piston by just the thickness of the ring, then very slowly and carefully worked the rest of the ring down to the same depth. After the ring was in that state I worked one end of the ring down until it was in the ring groove , then worked the rest of the ring down until it was totally in the ring groove. I put the second ring on from the other end of the piston, using the same method. It really helps if you hold your breath, clench your butt cheeks, and mutter a prayer to whichever god you are currently involved with.
I used to have a motor bike where the bottom of the cylinder bore had a chamfer on it. As you lowered the cylinder onto the piston, the chamfer compressed the rings to exactly the correct amount. I wonder why all engines aren't like this.
Jack
 

John Antliff

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Yes this how in full sized steam locomotives, the steam piston valves are constructed with a taper at the end to facilitate fitting the piston complete with rings into the bore. If I remember rightly it would be about 30 degrees inclusive i.e. 15 degrees of actual chamfer. The bores of the piston valves could be resized several times up to the point of where the chamfer dissappears. For IC engines a ring compressor should be used which in essence is a strap of thin shim material wrapped around the ring, loose enough to be left behind as the piston is pushed into the bore but tight enough to ensure that the ring(s) are fully in their grooves during the push.
 

stackerjack

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Sorry to intrude on this thread, but could someone please tell me how to start a new thread. All efforts so far have failed.
Thank you
Jack
 

Cogsy

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Sorry to intrude on this thread, but could someone please tell me how to start a new thread. All efforts so far have failed.
Thank you
Jack
Navigate to the sub-forum you want to post in (Questions, Showing Them, etc.) and you will see a list of threads in that sub-forum. At the top of page (just under the banner) and also at the bottom of the page are red buttons marked 'Post New Thread'. Click on one of those and you'll be on your way.
 

stackerjack

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Navigate to the sub-forum you want to post in (Questions, Showing Them, etc.) and you will see a list of threads in that sub-forum. At the top of page (just under the banner) and also at the bottom of the page are red buttons marked 'Post New Thread'. Click on one of those and you'll be on your way.
Thanks Cogsy, I got there in the end.
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hello guys!

After many attempts to start the PeeWee, I gave up and decided to tear it apart for a complete checking of the components.

I did not find anything wrong.

However, I was not getting good compression with the Cast Iron rings. Based on my experience with the Tiny Inline 4 that I used Viton O'ring, I decided to test it on the PeeWee.



Sheers, I got the little beast getting to life.


I added one O'ring on the top of the piston and kept the Cast Iron ring on the bottom.
20191005_123808.jpg

Take a look of the first start after insalling the O'ring on the Piston

Second run

Many adjusts/tuning to be done, but at least it showed that it can run

Thanks,
Edi
 

e.picler

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I found that it runs better with the distributor advanced about 10 degrees.
It is still not responding to the throttle, maybe some modifications on the carburetor will be necessary.

Any hints or suggestions? Will be much appreciated.


Thanks,


Edi
 

stevehuckss396

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My ignition is set at 38 degrees advanced. Try giving it some more advance. Usually if it stalls giving throttle it is lean.
 
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