Another PeeWee

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e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hello people!
I touched the PeeWee this evening again.
I advanced the distributor to around 35 degrees and it started to respond to the throttle but not good enough (thanks Steve).
It is now running for a longer time but not much and no low idle.
What is the normal idle RPM for the PeeWee? For those that have built it.

Edi
 

stevehuckss396

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Edi

you will probably need to get a few hours of running on the engine to loosen it up before you get the low idle. with rubber rings the friction my be higher than a cast ring and effect the idle. you will just need to be patient and see what happens.
 

awake

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Edi! Check into the George Trimble method. If you do what Bob says it will most likely cause a flat spot at the point where the ring is heated. Then when the ring is installed it will leave a gap in that spot. Rind will not touch the wall in that spot. George's method will show how to make a fixture to spread the gap but avoid the flat spot.
Can anyone point me to where I can read about the George Trimble method? Is it a thread in this forum, or a book, or ??

Many thanks!
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hi Steve!
You are absolutely right. It is getting more stable running every day. It already showed some idle.
Tomorrow I will post the new video.

I just found today that there is some problem with the water channels, it seems to be clogged. I will need to remove the heads to understand what is going on.

Edi
 

sition

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Hi Edi!
I suggest you put the O-ring in the second ring, so that the O-ring can get enough lubrication, reduce friction and improve service life.
 

Cogsy

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It's sounding great in the first videos already Edi. Congrats on a runner (and I'm looking forward to move videos).
 

awake

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I need to apologize - I jumped in with an off-tangent question, and totally neglected to congratulate Edi on the excellent work. As an IC-model-engine-maker-wannabe (IMEMW??), I am inspired by the incredible work that goes into an engine like this. Thanks, Edi, for providing the documentation on your build - I'm nowhere near trying to tackle something like this, but reading through the progression of a build like this is so helpful in gaining a sense of the challenges and trouble-shooting that goes into a build.

Thanks, Edi!
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hi!
I'm getting water on the oil pan and I can't find where it is leaking. Scratching my head!!!!!
I already sealed the OD of the liners to the wall of the block holes.

Any ideas where it could be leaking water into the block/oil pan?

Thanks,
Edi
 

stevehuckss396

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head gaskets?

pull the oilpan and spin the pump with a drill medium slow and see if a leak presents itself.
 

e.picler

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Hi Steve!
I did that. I installed the heads back on the block, without the pistons and crankshaft.
I used a Dremel to spin the pump shaft. I found that the water is leaking in the wall of the camshaft tunnel through the porosity of the casting.
Now, to not scrap the block, I got find a way to fix it. Maybe a kind of paste glue or....

Thanks Steve.

Edi
 

john futter

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Thourouly dry your casting in the oven
Apply loctite 290 (used to be called superwick in) apply pressure /vacuum depending on which is easier to drive the 290 into the casting voids. This will last a lifetime unless you get acetone near it
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hi John!
Thank you for the suggestion.
I have tested again after using industrial Epoxy and did not work.
I will follow Steve's suggestion to rebore the cam tunnel and press a tube with Loctite and then ream the bore back to the final bearing diameter (16mm).

PS. I just received the brass materials for the Radiator

Thanks,
Edi
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hi to all!
Reworking the block trying to fix the water liking ito the oil pan do to the porosity of the casting.
Reboring the tunnel
20191024_212107.jpg


Turning the tube/bushing I used 0,02mm interference
20191025_205029.jpg


Pressed the bushing into the rebored tunnel
20191025_210906.jpg


Ready to redrilling all the holes
20191025_222041.jpg


20191025_222051.jpg



I hope it fixes the water liking

Edi
 

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e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hello to all!

I finally could test if the water leaking into the oil pan did work.

Yes, it worked with the jacket installed on the camshaft tunnel.
I have modified the way the water is transferred to the right block bank. Please see the photos bellow.
20191012_104127.jpg

20191012_111508.jpg

20191012_112245.jpg

20191012_113026.jpg

20191012_113002.jpg

20191012_120008.jpg

20191012_145226.jpg


Worked greatly

Edi
 

e.picler

Edi from brazil
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Hi again!
I had a very hard time to make the PeeWee run properly. It insisted of running only with 3 cylinders. The cylinder number 4 was not firing.
I have checked the timing several times in order to make sure it was correct.
20190908_105658.jpg

20190908_105646.jpg


I also checked the point of distributor. Everything was correct. So, I scratched my head to find what was causing the cylinder 4 not fire (valves was OK too).


By chance I discovery two different information on the plans I received form Dirk regarding the position of the distributor rotor in relation to the number 1 cylinder on the distributor cap.

This one says to align on the tail of the rotor contact.
20191201_225859.jpg


This one says to align on the leading edge of the rotor contact.
20191201_225931.jpg


First I have set to the tail of the rotor contact (first photo). That was the problem.
After I have set acording to the second photo, (leading edge), the engine started to run fine:):)

Many, many hours to find it out.

Thanks,

Edi
 

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awake

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Beautiful!

The shaft driven by the rubber belt (o-ring) - that is driving the water pump, correct? Is it driving anything else?
 
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