Another PeeWee

Discussion in 'Engines From Castings' started by e.picler, Aug 25, 2018.

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  1. Jan 22, 2020 #141

    Noel Gordon

    Noel Gordon

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    Edit, I'm a toolmaker with 60 plus years experience so I am old school. Your workmanship is something to behold and to be admired by all .Thank you for sharing..
    Noel Gordon
     
  2. Jan 22, 2020 #142

    bob shutt

    bob shutt

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    I noticed that your gas tank is mounted above carb. I had to move mine below carb so carb pulls fuel in
     
  3. Jan 23, 2020 #143

    Brian Rupnow

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    Edi--Youre engine is magnificent.---Brian Rupnow
     
  4. Jan 23, 2020 #144

    e.picler

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    Edi from brazil

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    Hi to all!
    Thanks Noel for your very kind words. In comparison to some fellows here, I'm an apprentice.

    Also thanks for the ones that commented on the starting problem.
    This evening I did a more close observation on the PeeWee running behavior. following is what I found.
    - It dies due to the heating
    - Yes, GD, it bogs till it dies
    - After a minute running the card was not too hot (around 38C degrees) however the distributor was at 68C (is the hall sensor sensitive to heat?). I cooled down the distributor with compressed air and did not cause any positive effect on the starting.
    - The cylinder 4 is not firing (the spark is OK, the valves are sealing well) I think it has something to do with the position of distributor rotor

    As the engine gets hot the water on the radiator starts coming out through the overflow tube (the pressure increases). It almost drains all the water from the radiator what contributes to the heating of the engine.

    Steve, did you face a similar situation on your PeeWee?

    Thanks for the help.
    Edi
     
  5. Jan 23, 2020 #145

    minh-thanh

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    e.picler !
    Try replacing the battery, possibly due to low battery.
     
  6. Jan 23, 2020 #146

    stevehuckss396

    stevehuckss396

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    Hello edi. I did not have trouble with the peewee but I did with the v8.

    Bob mentioned the fuel tank height. Make sure the top of the tank is even with or below the bottom of the carb. It it's not gravity will force unwanted fuel into the engine.
     
  7. Jan 24, 2020 #147

    e.picler

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    Hi Steve and Bob! Thanks for the tips.
    I will raise the engine (Make higher pedestals) and run a test.
    But I do no understand why the cylinder 4 does not fire. As I said before de valves are sealing well and there is a good spark.

    Thanks,
    Edi
     
  8. Jan 24, 2020 #148

    minh-thanh

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    Can you tell me what kind of hall sensor you use?
    According to my memory :There are two types of hall sensors with operating temperatures from - 40 -> 85 degrees C and -40 -> 150 degrees C
     
  9. Jan 24, 2020 #149

    dnalot

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    At 176 degrees F or 80 C. magnets lose their magnetism. It is permanent if held at high temp for any period of time. So yes a hall sensor is sensitive to heat.

    Mark T
     
  10. Jan 24, 2020 #150

    stevehuckss396

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    If you are running it long enough to have coolant coming out of the overflow tube you are over heating the engine. That can cause all the problems that have been discussed. It can also cause tolerances in fitment between parts and start to seize the engine. You should never let the engine go hotter than about 190. With no coolant in the heads that temp can be reached in just a few minutes from dead cold.
     
  11. Jan 25, 2020 #151

    e.picler

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    Hi,
    Minh-thanh
    The hall sensor is 04E temp. range is 40C to 85C

    Steve
    The engine reaches high temp really fast. Before a minute of running the coolant starts coming out of the overflow tube. Remember, the coolant does not circulate on the head. It only goes around the liners and comes out on the head.

    Mark,
    Thanks for the information, I did not know the magnetics loses the magnetism at this temperature

    Thank you Brian.

    Edi
     
  12. Jan 25, 2020 #152

    Rocket Man

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    Instead of plastic spacer I would make brass or aluminum spacer with cooling water holes drilled in it. Connect cooling water to spacer then run engine to see if that fixes the problem. If cooling does not solve the problem then you know carburetor is not getting too hot so spacer can be removed. Put a meter or tester on ignition system to see if is stops working when engine stops. I have new model airplane engines that lock up after running 1 minute but after engine stops I can spin propeller by hand. Apparently it only takes a very small temperature change for 400 degrees to 410 to lock up the model airplane engine. Factory model airplane fuel is 18% oil not enough oil for a new engine so I add oil to get 30% then engine runs good for 6 months until it is broke in then I use 25% oil in fuel. I assume your engine is 4 cycle not 2 cycle you can do a quick easy experiment run your engine on 2 cycle fuel to see if that prevents engine from stopping. Soon as you learn the problem then you can work on fixing it. If you can add cooling ports to the head that will help if engine is getting too hot. Car engine heads are the hottest part of the engine that is why engine cooling system thermostat never turns off cooling to the heads. Your engine look very nice & sounds good too I hope you can solve the problem.
     
  13. Jan 25, 2020 #153

    stevehuckss396

    stevehuckss396

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    Check your cooling system edi. You should be able to run 4 or 5 minutes from dead cold. Maybe water flow has been restricted.

    Water flowing to fast is also a problem. Is the pump as drawn or did you modify it.

    Coolant is also a problem. Do not add coolant to your system. Try waterwetter.
     
  14. Jan 26, 2020 #154

    e.picler

    e.picler

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    Thank you Rocket Man, your tips are very clever.

    Steve
    I did not modify the pump. It is exactly according to the drawing.
    Yes, I'm using a radiator coolant. I will try pure water.

    Edi
     
  15. Jan 26, 2020 #155

    ozzie46

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    What is wrong with using antifreeze ? I use it in my Mastiff opposed 4 cyl engine as a rust inhibitor fro the cast iron cyl liners and it will run for 30 min or till it runs out of fuel with no problem.
     
  16. Jan 26, 2020 #156

    stevehuckss396

    stevehuckss396

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    Antifreeze adds surface tension that can hinder the absorption of heat. The water wetter breaks the surface tension and can aid cooling. It also contains the anti corrosion and lubricants without the glycol
     
  17. Jan 26, 2020 #157

    ozzie46

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    Thanks Steve, do auto stores carry the water wetter or where can one get some.
     
  18. Jan 26, 2020 #158

    stevehuckss396

    stevehuckss396

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    Any auto parts store should have it.


    WaterWetter is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30 degrees Farenheit. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze.



    waterwetter.jpg
     

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