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gbritnell said:
Hi Steve, I think what CallMeAl was asking was how you got the bearings on the camshafts?
George

OOOHHH!!!


What I did there was got a bearing with a 3/8 ID. Then i made the cam with a base circle of .25 and a .080 lift. So from the back of the base circle to the top of the lobe is only .330. The bearings go right over the lobes. I am not to happy with the cam being so thin but the bearings support the shaft close to the lobe. Hopefully there wont be alot of flex in the shaft leading to broken pieces.
 
Amazing stuff! Just a small and fairly insignificant question, when you tapped all those holes then 'bottom' tapped, does that just mean a tap that has the lead in taper bit ground off to get right to the bottom of the hole or do you get special taps like that?

Cheers,

nick
 
NickG said:
when you tapped all those holes then 'bottom' tapped, does that just mean a tap that has the lead in taper bit ground off to get right to the bottom of the hole or do you get special taps like that?

Hello Nick. I have a normal (plug) tap to start and then went back with a bottom tap to catch the bottom of the hole. Needed all the thread i could get. Nothing special about them, just two different "standard" taps.

 
Today I managed to do a small bit. I drilled the final hole in the cylinder sectoin to let the water in. After that I rebored the holes in the Crank support. I suspected something was wrong and i was correct. The holes were running off to one side. When I made the original holes the vise must have been skewed. The holes are perfectly aligned with the bores in the cylinder now.

DSCN1958.jpg


I also had dropped the part at one time and crushed one of the corners. I grabbed a corner rounding endmill and put a 1/8 radius on the top edge to hide the boo boo.

DSCN1961.jpg


I started making cylinder liners. If you remember back I bored the cylinder block thru at .930 and then bored the area above the water jacket .940. I did this so that the liner will drop into the bore all but about 3/8 of an inch. This should make the liner alot easier to press in. I did all the OD work first creating 2 bosses that match the cylinder block.

DSCN1963.jpg


The liner was bored to .050 undersized and parted off. The piece was rechucked and the opposite end was faced to .025 oversized. When the liners are installed the top of the block will be cut to bring the cylinder liners down to the block surface. The final bore will also be cut.

DSCN1966.jpg


The finished piece ready to be pressed.

DSCN1968.jpg


Drops right in ready for the press.

DSCN1969.jpg
 
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Guys,

You've confused the hell out of me with your tap nomenclature, (not that it's a difficult task). ;D

In Oz and probably the UK a set of say, BSW/NC, taps consists of 3 taps:

1 - Taper, used to start the tapping process and has a fairly long lead of less than full size threads at the start of the tap.
2. - Intermediate, used after the taper tap and has about half the lead of a taper tap of less than full size threads at the start.
3. - Plug, Full size threads all the way and used to provide threads to the bottom of a blind hole.

I am correct in saying your plug tap is my taper tap and my plug tap is your bottoming tap ??? ???

Thanks for sorting me out.

Best Regards
Bob
 
Maryak,

Ours our taper, plug, and bottoming. So Your intermediate is our plug, and your plug is our bottoming.

Kevin
 
Thanks Guys,

You've intermediately plugged and bottomed me out. :bow: :bow: :)

Best Regards
Bob
 
Not much to report right now but i did manage to get the cylinder liners finished and ready to be pressed in. I had been using my milling machine as a makeshift press but now that i have the Bridgeport that's just not going to happen. So now i'm on the hunt for a semi good sized arbor press to do these types of things. Until then I will move on to something else but I don't know what.

??????????????



DSCN1977.jpg
 
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You could press these with the vise jaws. But an arbor press is nice to have. I bought the 1-ton Palmgren model at Enco, but a larger one would have been preferable.
 
kvom said:
You could press these with the vise jaws. But an arbor press is nice to have. I bought the 1-ton Palmgren model at Enco, but a larger one would have been preferable.
Yeah, I have a little 1/2 ton arbor press and needed to press something not too long ago and it wasn't doing the job so I poked in the Kurt documentation. Ye cats, it'll squeeze 3 tons. That did it.

 
How much of an interference fit do you have? Heating the block and freezing the liners not enough to get the job done?
 
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