C
Circlip
Guest
Yep, you've echoed what I said about Mamods on another forum, but like you've related John, low pressure. I wouldn't trust it on a firetube type boiler though, personal preference. Regards Ian.
Some of my stuff...
- Thread starter Florian
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
And now another engine; scratchbuilt trough and through:
Specifications:
Bore: 14 mm
Stroke: 28 mm
Pistonrod dia. : 3 mm
Valve rod dia. : 3 mm
valve stroke: 2 mm (its being reduced by the lever in the middle, i first designed another valve but it didn't work. Then i redesigned and now it works very good.
The flywheel has 10 cm diameter and the crank is ball beared.
Later on, i added a cross clamp guidance (is that the correct expression?)
In the future, the engine will get a new base but ill wait until i have the boiler and i build it all on a tray.
Florian
Specifications:
Bore: 14 mm
Stroke: 28 mm
Pistonrod dia. : 3 mm
Valve rod dia. : 3 mm
valve stroke: 2 mm (its being reduced by the lever in the middle, i first designed another valve but it didn't work. Then i redesigned and now it works very good.
The flywheel has 10 cm diameter and the crank is ball beared.
Later on, i added a cross clamp guidance (is that the correct expression?)
In the future, the engine will get a new base but ill wait until i have the boiler and i build it all on a tray.
Florian
I think you all kind of expected to see some more things from me, you were right! 
Its a little steam engine with a stephenson reverse gear.
And now: All the cylinderhead-screws are M2 screws; their head has 4 mm diameter.
The Flywheel has 40 mm diameter.
Bore: 8mm
Stroke: 9.5 mm
Valve-stroke: 2mm
It looks very good like that, but it does not work that great and so i decided to modify it:
Its a little steam engine with a stephenson reverse gear.
And now: All the cylinderhead-screws are M2 screws; their head has 4 mm diameter.
The Flywheel has 40 mm diameter.
Bore: 8mm
Stroke: 9.5 mm
Valve-stroke: 2mm
It looks very good like that, but it does not work that great and so i decided to modify it:
And now reassembled with new cylinder unit, new flywheel and new base, made from brass. The crank is ball beared to reduce friction (which was to high with the original bearings)
I also tested it and i started smiling and wouldn't stop for half an hour or so I really was happy when i saw it working that great.
Here, i have no videos, because the boiler does not exist up to now. But i already know what im going to built. :wink:
I also tested it and i started smiling and wouldn't stop for half an hour or so
I really was happy when i saw it working that great. Here, i have no videos, because the boiler does not exist up to now. But i already know what im going to built. :wink:
zeusrekning
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Florian, How does your tool post grinder work? I have thought about doing something like that myself. Any suggestion?
Tim
Tim
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Tim,
To make a cheapish toolpost grinder, buy a real cheap small router and hack it up to get the main motor and nose bit out. Sometimes they are separate anyway , the early B&D ones were. They have a very rigid bearing setup in the nose to take the sideways forces and get up to a fair wack in speed. You just might need to make up a collet to fit your bonded stones shaft, but they are dead easy to make. I made one for a friend and it works a dream.
It isn't worth buying expensive stuff because you only use one very occasionally, and I doubt if you would ever wear one out. It is a lot cheaper than ruining your expensive Dremels.
I made a banjo shaped holder that fitted around the router nose and was put into a QCT. All you need then is a fixed diamond dresser to trim the stone parallel to the lathe bed.
If you have compressed air, I have seen cheap pneumatic die grinders used to good effect as a toolpost grinder, again, these have a well supported nose, designed for sideways pressures, also the pressure can be reduced for slower running with a larger outside grinding wheel. Not that you use a lot of sideways force, in fact there should hardly be any, it is just the rigidity you are after, usually lacking in small hand held mini drills.
You are supposed to run the stone in opposite directions when doing either internal or external grinding, my commercial grinder runs in both directions by flicking a switch. You can get away with it by running the lathe chuck in reverse.
John
To make a cheapish toolpost grinder, buy a real cheap small router and hack it up to get the main motor and nose bit out. Sometimes they are separate anyway , the early B&D ones were. They have a very rigid bearing setup in the nose to take the sideways forces and get up to a fair wack in speed. You just might need to make up a collet to fit your bonded stones shaft, but they are dead easy to make. I made one for a friend and it works a dream.
It isn't worth buying expensive stuff because you only use one very occasionally, and I doubt if you would ever wear one out. It is a lot cheaper than ruining your expensive Dremels.
I made a banjo shaped holder that fitted around the router nose and was put into a QCT. All you need then is a fixed diamond dresser to trim the stone parallel to the lathe bed.
If you have compressed air, I have seen cheap pneumatic die grinders used to good effect as a toolpost grinder, again, these have a well supported nose, designed for sideways pressures, also the pressure can be reduced for slower running with a larger outside grinding wheel. Not that you use a lot of sideways force, in fact there should hardly be any, it is just the rigidity you are after, usually lacking in small hand held mini drills.
You are supposed to run the stone in opposite directions when doing either internal or external grinding, my commercial grinder runs in both directions by flicking a switch. You can get away with it by running the lathe chuck in reverse.
John
zeusrekning
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Thanks John, I have an old angle grinder that the ring gear in the head went out on. What RPM would be optimal?
Tim
Tim
HI
And the story goes on...
some of you may have noticed the loco in the background of the boiler pictures.
That will be a german BR 38 / P8 but to complete, there is still a lot of work to be done.
However, i one day decided to try a locomotive boiler before building the one for my steam loco. I have made a lot of pictures while building it but you can see it below:
When driving, i always had one piece of sheet on the mold and two cooling down from annealing.
This is the production of driving and annealing for about 6 to 8 hours.
Florian
And the story goes on...
some of you may have noticed the loco in the background of the boiler pictures.
That will be a german BR 38 / P8 but to complete, there is still a lot of work to be done.
However, i one day decided to try a locomotive boiler before building the one for my steam loco. I have made a lot of pictures while building it but you can see it below:
When driving, i always had one piece of sheet on the mold and two cooling down from annealing.
This is the production of driving and annealing for about 6 to 8 hours.
Florian
