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steamer said:
Though I admire your dedication...it would kinda defeat the purpose wouldn't it? ;D

Why, I don't need them anymore! Haha!

I think what i'm going to do is break it down into 3 groups. The engine of course, the carb, and the blower.

Engine: This would be the drawings to build the complete V8 without the carb. There would be notes along the way pointing out if certian parts are carbureted version only. For instance, the intake manifold would be completely different for the blown version.

Carb: Some might want to build the engine and use an RC carb with an adapter of there own design. I think breaking out the carb drawings would make it a few bucks cheaper. Also there may be a few who want to build this carb for an existing engine so why buy all the drawings for just the carb

Blower: These would be for the blower. This set would contain all the parts that are needed and all the modifications to the V8 parts. I am going to see about getting the castings done and sell them with the drawings. I might also supply the Gcode for cutting the 3 lobe rotors.


This is all still subject to change. I'm still trying to figure this all out.

 
I cant wait to see those rotors. I planned on working early this morning but my power is out and I cant even get a cup of coffee. Steam and lineshafts would be more dependable then DTEenergy.
 
I started some things today. I normally dont show alot of the CNC stuff but this was just cool. Grabbed a piece of the acrylic that was used for the blower pattern.

1/16 drill bit

DSCN1244s.jpg


#38 drill bit.

DSCN1246s.jpg



3/32 endmill

DSCN1248s.jpg



1/8 end mill

DSCN1249s.jpg



The whole thing took less than 10 minutes.

DSCN1252s.jpg


DSCN1254s.jpg






Oh yeah, I also started on the water pump housing.

DSCN1260s.jpg
 
Too cool. Whats the secret to keeping the acrylic from melting?
 
Must just be dull cutters then. Once we used a piece of bulletproof glass taken out of a party store and used it to make a 2 inch riser for an Edelbrock STR-12 manifold. It kept getting gummy and melting to the cutter. Same story any time I have tried to saw it too, must just be that black cloud following me around. :-[
 
Wow love the dizzy
Pete ;D
 
Lakc said:
Must just be dull cutters then. Once we used a piece of bulletproof glass taken out of a party store and used it to make a 2 inch riser for an Edelbrock STR-12 manifold. It kept getting gummy and melting to the cutter. Same story any time I have tried to saw it too, must just be that black cloud following me around. :-[


Ya got me! The only time i ever had trouble with it is when I tried to polish to a clear finish. If the RPM's are too high and the real fine sand paper loads up it tends to smear. Need to use a light touch. I usually cut it about the same feed and speed as aluminum except my cut depth is about double. I do use a sharp HSS cutter.
 
Pretty nice looking cap.
Acrylic and polycarb aren't the same stuff. I too once tried milling polycarb bullet proof glass. Got it done but the cut was pretty nasty because the cutter melted the plastic. Don't know about acrylic althought I've cut some with wood cutting tools. It seemed to cut ok but dulled the tools pretty quickly.
 
Love the parts Steve. The CNC + holding tags route is how I make a lot of my parts.
On the subject of acrylic, the number one consideration is the type of acrylic material you are cutting. If it is cast material, there is a lot more crystallinity and a higher melting point. This machines very nicely. If you are machining extruded acrylic (cheaper) it is a LOT more likely to melt into a ball and clog the cutter. Visibly though the 2 plastics look the same. Cutters should be razor sharp and either 2 or 1-flutes if you can find them. Anything to get the clearance for those chips will reduce the chance of melting.
 
LongRat said:
If it is cast material, there is a lot more crystallinity and a higher melting point. This machines very nicely. If you are machining extruded acrylic (cheaper) it is a LOT more likely to melt into a ball and clog the cutter. Visibly though the 2 plastics look the same.


This must be cast because it machines very nice. The sheet is 12 X 36 X 1-1/4 thick. If I had to buy it, $$$$$$$$

 
stevehuckss396 said:
This must be cast because it machines very nice. The sheet is 12 X 36 X 1-1/4 thick. If I had to buy it, $$$$$$$$
Yeah, thats way better results then I ever had.
Since I had mcmaster open in another window, its $144.86 and it specifies as cast. ;D
 
Hi Steve,

Very, very nice again!!!

More... more pictures, please!!! th_wwp

Cheers,

Alexandre
 
Hi Steve,

Is something serious ? I hope that your health is reestablished soon.

Cheers,

Alexandre
 
Hi Steve,

Did you get that 48 hour thing that's been going around....Damn that thing was NASTY!

Hope your feeling better....and you do feel better eventually....really. ;D

Dave
 
steamer said:
Hi Steve,

Did you get that 48 hour thing that's been going around....Damn that thing was NASTY!

Hope your feeling better....and you do feel better eventually....really. ;D

Dave


Thanks for the well wishes!

I had a chest/throat thing going for about a week. Could not get on top of it until Wed when I went to the doc and got some anti's. Starting to get better now. Should be good to go in a few more days. Never made it into the lungs or anything.
 
Hi Steve,


I saw the water pump and I was thinking about how is the course of water through the cylinders... Could you explain how this will work ?

How to make all the water circulate for all cylinders... Is possible that water arrive warmer in the cylinders brings or this is not relevant ?

The pump pulls water to out of the engine or push to in ?

Needs to circulate water in the cylinder head?

Thank you,

Alexandre
 
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