Small V8

Discussion in 'A Work In Progress' started by stevehuckss396, Jun 7, 2010.

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  1. Apr 11, 2018 #1341

    doc1955

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    I just use g regular super glue it's kind of a bugger getting the little piece line up on the disk I used a scribe point to push it around then and eraser to push it down. Seemed to hold just fine.
     
  2. Apr 12, 2018 #1342

    GRAYHIL

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    Thanks for the reply doc1955.
    Has anyone thought of machining a .010inch deep slot in the delrin and making the electrode .01 thicker? Would it effect anything like setting the ignition timing or electrical properties?
    Graham
     
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  3. Apr 12, 2018 #1343

    doc1955

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    I think that would work you would need to get it timed with the magnet correctly. I ended up having to remove redo it once because I didn't get it quite right just took an exacto blade and took it off cleaned it up and re-did it. Plus if you have my luck I fried a couple hall sensors and upon replacing them had to move the brass strip so you could run into a problem if that happens. Anyway in theory it's a good idea but in reality it could bite you in the end.
     
  4. Apr 13, 2018 #1344

    stevehuckss396

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    Scuff both parts with scotch brite pad or steel wool. Any super glue will work but I prefer the gel type because it doesn't set instantly. You get a few seconds to get the pieces placed correctly before the glue sets.
     
  5. Apr 13, 2018 #1345

    GRAYHIL

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    Thanks for all your input.
    Graham
     
  6. May 9, 2018 #1346

    GRAYHIL

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    Hi All
    Ref the water pump,the machining drawing page 55 shows a bearing recess .25 x .24 deep on the right hand side of the flat side (although it is not delineated) and a .25 x .05 deep recess on the opposite . The side where the inlet fitting fits.
    Page 56 shows the bearing fitted to the .25 x .05 deep recess?
    My question before I cut metal is, is the bearing on the inner or outer side ?
    My intuition is that the bearing fits in the inner side and page 56 has misled me but I thought I would check:)
    Graham
     
  7. May 10, 2018 #1347

    stevehuckss396

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    I believe you are correct. The .05 deep recess is for the oring to seal the shaft. Let me check it out real good tomorrow and ill get back to you
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2018
  8. May 10, 2018 #1348

    stevehuckss396

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    I updated the water pump so the o ring would be external making it easier to replace if worn. The assembly drawing was not updated. The bearings are internal and the o ring goes on the shaft behind the fan belt pulley. Put a dab of silicone grease on the shaft before installing the oring.
     
  9. May 10, 2018 #1349

    GRAYHIL

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    Hi Steve
    You are an inspiration to me.
    Thanks Graham
     
  10. Jul 9, 2018 #1350

    GRAYHIL

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    Hi All
    Has anyone found that the rocker arms tend to turn and the roller ends touch.
    My solution was to fit a plate inside the rocker arm head recess with .08 inch slots and screwed down.
    Can anyone see any problems?
    Graham
     

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  11. Jul 9, 2018 #1351

    GRAYHIL

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    Hi All
    Has anyone found that the rocker arms tend to turn and the roller ends touch.
    My solution was to fit a plate inside the rocker arm head recess with .08 inch slots and screwed down.
    Can anyone see any problems?
    Graham
     
  12. Jul 10, 2018 #1352

    stevehuckss396

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    The valve stem should go into the groove of the rocker making it impossible to turn on the stud. Also from your pictures they are installed upside down. When you get them flipped over make sure the valve stem is making contact with the roller and when it does there should be little to no sideways motion.
     
  13. Jul 10, 2018 #1353

    GRAYHIL

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    Thanks Steve
    Why did I not see this as I have pictures of your build.
    :oops:
    Graham
     
  14. Jul 12, 2018 #1354

    stevehuckss396

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    No big deal, should be an easy fix. Page 32 has an assembly drawing for the rocker system. If you have any more problems post them here or contact me directly.
     
  15. Jul 17, 2018 #1355

    Mark Duquette

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    OK I give. You skill and patience have to be admired. I happened upon this thread a week ago and could not let it go. I had toyed in my teens to build a model engine but never did. Now seeing your work I have the bug again. I have decided to make the model of one of the engines I had in a pinto bodied modified in the late 1970's. This will be a dry sump , normally aspirated Ford Boss 351. It will be 1/4 scale with about 7/8 bore and 3/4 inch stroke. I am afraid that it will take me longer than it did you as I will have to finish some of my other projects to make this happen. (finish forth axis for retrofit Bridgeport, finish upgrading Emco compact5 to be a servo driven PcTurn)

    As you can see I have a very long way to go.
     

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  16. Jul 17, 2018 #1356

    stevehuckss396

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    Keep going. Took me a year and some change to get the drawings to a point where I was comfortable starting the first piece. You will get there.
     
  17. May 31, 2019 #1357

    propclock

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    Well it took 2 mornings, but I read the build from start to finish. Thank you
    so much for all of your shared experience. I just completed a Blown Black Widow
    V8 but I didn't build the crank. Dwight Giles built the Crank, and most of the difficult
    stuff.
    I have only ruined 1 crank so far.
    So My 2nd engine is awaiting a successful crank. I really feel your pain on the crank, but you have motivated me to get back to it. You said you got sharper tooling.
    Was this purchased or just better angles/honing?
    Again Thank You. Now back to the shop.
     
  18. May 31, 2019 #1358

    stevehuckss396

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    I found that thinner tip and sharper tooling helped. I ground a right and left hand tool on a 3/32 wide parting tool and used it to finish the piece.
     

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