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[BobWarfield]

John, I should have guessed it had been done before. I do like the idea of a 5C collet chuck that is concentric on the tailstock for really fine work. I also know you can get ER collet chucks on MT tapers. Perhaps the slick accessory would be a taper in a ball bearing so you can put whatever you'd like in it.

Best,

BW

 

[zeusrekning]

Here are the rest of the pics. Steve took this with his camera. I can see things with his camera I couldn't see in person.

 

[rake60]

Tim
You HAVE to do a thread detailing that machine!
My tool envy just went up 69%

Rick

 

[zeusrekning]

Rick, It is nothing special. I have 3 Hawacheon Lathes at work and 3 fadal mills. This is the small Hi-eco 10 lathe. Ask any questions you may have. It is just a single spindle single turret lathe. No C axis or live tooling. But if nothing else, these little lathes are super ridgid.

 

[BobWarfield]

No wonder those cylinders were done so well so fast, LOL!

I am curious. Hwacheon made Mori Seiki manual lathes under license and they were supposed to be very good lathes. Is your Hwacheon a Mori Seiki CNC clone, or a completely unrelated machine? Either way, it's very cool!

Give us the dope on how you generated the g-code. Did you write it? Mastercam? Show some Solidworks, Mastercam or other screenshots. I wish we could see a video of it making one, but you're all done.

Cool stuff!

Best,

BW

 

[greener]

Ok, Ok

Looks like the team build has a ringer...I figured most would be using a hobby lathe and mill and maybe some homebuilt cnc along the way. No way did I figure that a pro-shop lathe be used.

I'm with BobW details, we must have more details.

Looks like the project is off to a fantastic start, great work Tim.

Brian

 

[zeusrekning]

I am curious. Hwacheon made Mori Seiki manual lathes under license and they were supposed to be very good lathes. Is your Hwacheon a Mori Seiki CNC clone, or a completely unrelated machine? Either way, it's very cool!

Give us the dope on how you generated the g-code. Did you write it? Mastercam? Show some Solidworks, Mastercam or other screenshots. I wish we could see a video of it making one, but you're all done.

I have heard that the Hwacheon is basically an earlier model Seikis guts. But I haven't used a Seiki to compare. I entered all the G-code by hand at the machine on this part. If the part is more complex I may sit down and write a program at the desktop. We don't use any CAM software for the lathes. Me have Geopath for the mills, it can generate code for the lathes also but we don't. CAM software for lathes is a little quirky. Unless you are doing a lot of complex machining software is not necessary. I will occasionally draw something up on CAD and plot points of the tool travel if I have an awkward profile to cut.

Brian, Yeah I new I was going to get that. I am getting a lathe at the house in the near future but don't have one yet. I only live two miles from work so I do what I have to. I don't have any serious plans for a mill at home yet so all my mill work will be done at work.
Thanks for the kind words guys,
Tim

 

[13AL]

I understand making tooling is half the fun but being a rookie most of my tooling needs to be store bought, so in this case if I am understanding this correctly a "live" drill chuck in the tail stock would do the trick?? just saw them at LMS.

????
Kurt

 

[Powder keg]

Kurt, That "live chuck" would work fine for what I'm doing. But, I may never need it again so before I buy a tool I ask myself. Self, do you really need that? Or can you figure something out) I'll get the pictures of the tool I made up today. It was made from scrap. It didn't cost me anything accept about a half hour to build. New machinists should have this kind of attitude when first starting out especially. If not they will have tools in their box that in ten years they'll only have used once and they'll sell'em on Ebay to another new guy)

Have a great day, Wes

 

[deere_x475guy]

I agree with PowderKeg, that's the way I started out. The very first tool I made a was a spring loaded tap guide. Works great and I use it all the time and smile when I pick it up..

 

[Powder keg]

I'm doing pretty good) Thanks for asking) I'm going out right now to work on my pillars. The bushing I made for my live tail stock support is a bit loose. Turns out I used the wrong drill bit for the center hole. Duh! I have to make a stop for my collet chuck so they all will be the same length.

 

[deere_x475guy]

I'm in the shop right now and thought I would try John suggestion of trying a round collet for this 1/4" hex...however I don't have collets in 32nds. So I either wait till I order a hex on Monday or try the 3 jaw....or just be lazy today...:_)

 

[BobWarfield]

I've been working on mounting my 5C collet chuck. The other thing I did was to experiment with polishing the brass for the flywheels, and with "bumping the tool" to keep it's diameter accurate along a long piece of brass. Lastly, now that the collet chuck is more or less working, I've been trying it out on the flywheels and thinking of various "mass production" techniques. Frankly, I could just make them all as one offs, but I wanted to fool around with it a bit more.

Since this is my first experience with 5C collets on the lathe, I am learning some things, not all of them helpful, but all things I need to be aware of to succeed. The chuck is extremely accurate, and I love the ability to take a part out for measurement and put it back quickly and accurately. Very cool! On the negative front, while collets are supposed to be non-marring, they aren't. After a little research I discovered you can get nylong 5C's that would be. The other one that's been vexing me is that the workpiece moves in length as you tighten the collet. This makes it hard to use work stops as effectively as I had hoped.

I did one quick flywheel, start to finish including the reamed hub and it looks good. I may just get going doing them individually without further "mass production" experiments. The con rod will be harder. Been thinking about it a lot. I'll probably use collets for it too.

Best,

BW

 

[deere_x475guy]

Bob the collets do tend to pull the work piece back into the collet. I use a collet stop to keep that at bay.

 

[Brass_Machine]

I have my cylinders done (Thanks Tim! ;D) Just waiting for them to get here so I can make the pistons and 12 cylinder plates (I am gonna make Tims)

Eric

 

[zeusrekning]

I still need to drill the cross holes in the pistons and cylinders. I don't think I will be able to get to it this weekend.
Tim

 

[deere_x475guy]

Awh...great progress it would appear.)). I just finished the first Steam/Air connector. Will post in another thread.

 

[Powder keg]

Today, I drilled out a brass collet and made a collet stop for it. I chucked up the brass pieces and trued up one end of the 50 that I had cut with my band saw. Next I'll face them to length. Then I can see if my form tool will work.

The weather was so nice today about 100 motorcycler's rode by. I couldn't resist working on my bike so I tacked together a fairing bracket. A buddy of mine gave me a 30 year old Vetter fairing to mount on my bike) I just have to tweak it a bit and then weld it up and I'll be in business)

Hope everyone had a great day!

Wes

 

[Jadecy]

Done with my six bearings. Pictures have been posted in my progress thread in the team builds section

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1730.0

 

[gilessim]

Will hopefully get the bases done this week, I'm having a few problems with work and at home but my friend said I could use his mill.

I wanted to ask, what about the little slot on one end of the base, do we need that?, or is a countersunk hole ok ,since I'm putting a little 1/4 bead around them, the slot would spoil the lines!

Also ,does someone want to make some (cnc) little brass plaques?, if so then I'll make the wooden sub-bases wider on one side so there's a place for them, if not , I'll just make them symetrical.

Giles