Looking good so far! Wouldn't change anything.
A "Wallaby" of my own
- Thread starter steamer
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
Looking good so far! Wouldn't change anything.
steamer said:
Well, you see, I would... no, that wouldn't work....
How about... no... that's silly...
Oh I know! ... no wait... that's probably unsafe...
How could I do things differently.... I'd better ask steamer.
- Ryan
I love seeing all the crazy lathe setups. I don't use them often with a CNC mill in the shop, but they ideas get stored away for those times when they do in fact come in handy, as long as I can remember them.
Dave, it looks great, keep it coming.
Greg
Dave, it looks great, keep it coming.
Greg
tel said:
No! Not at all! Just different....and that was my point....there are lots of ways and means to machine the part....I highlighted a way using a lathe.....some might do the whole thing with a mill.....what way would you chose?
THAT"S my point.....
Dave
I'm watching quietly Dave.
I like the way you did it in the lathe. How one would do it is (obviously) strongly influenced by what is readily available and I don't have the additional face plate tooling you have.
I'd probably put a centre punch in the centre of the casting spigot and clamp it directly onto the lathe face plate. I'd use a tailstock centre in the centre punch mark to get it running true enough before clamping. Could improve the runout later if necessary.
For the second operation I'd use a collet like you did if I had one of the required size. Failing that I might put a bit of bar in the 3jaw, turn it (leaving a shoulder) to fit in the hole that's just been bored in the casting and stick the casting on with super glue. Then turn out the centre face, next drill and tap a hole in the end of the shaft and clamp the casting onto the shaft more securely. Then face off with the interrupted cut, which would likely break the superglue without the clamping screw.
Not very different to how you've done it, just tailored to what I have in my shop.
Cheers
Steve
I like the way you did it in the lathe. How one would do it is (obviously) strongly influenced by what is readily available and I don't have the additional face plate tooling you have.
I'd probably put a centre punch in the centre of the casting spigot and clamp it directly onto the lathe face plate. I'd use a tailstock centre in the centre punch mark to get it running true enough before clamping. Could improve the runout later if necessary.
For the second operation I'd use a collet like you did if I had one of the required size. Failing that I might put a bit of bar in the 3jaw, turn it (leaving a shoulder) to fit in the hole that's just been bored in the casting and stick the casting on with super glue. Then turn out the centre face, next drill and tap a hole in the end of the shaft and clamp the casting onto the shaft more securely. Then face off with the interrupted cut, which would likely break the superglue without the clamping screw.
Not very different to how you've done it, just tailored to what I have in my shop.
Cheers
Steve
Thank you Steve for your interest and most importantly your participation!
That's the kind of response I was looking for ..... :bow:
How would YOU do it....based on your experience and what tooling you have.
By the way...the "tooling" I have is anything but fancy....I'm sure you could make those straps from bits of bar.
Dave
That's the kind of response I was looking for ..... :bow:
How would YOU do it....based on your experience and what tooling you have.
By the way...the "tooling" I have is anything but fancy....I'm sure you could make those straps from bits of bar.
Dave
Well, another year older! I think I'll celebrate by starting on the oil pump! I intend to get that done so that I can complete the block/sump/ timing cover all in one setup while mounted in the lathe. To do that I need to have all the components so that I can locate them during this operation....so although it seems out of step, it jives with how I want to do it....
I've solicited input from the members as to methods so as to contrast and compare not necessarily with my methods....but to just demonstrate other ways that might fit with what YOU have ...but it seems it's not that well recieved...no matter.
I'll just continue on with the thread and if you would like to add....well go ahead.
Dave
I've solicited input from the members as to methods so as to contrast and compare not necessarily with my methods....but to just demonstrate other ways that might fit with what YOU have ...but it seems it's not that well recieved...no matter.
I'll just continue on with the thread and if you would like to add....well go ahead.
Dave
Don1966
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2012
- Messages
- 487
- Reaction score
- 24
Hi! Dave did we miss a birthday. Did you say another year older and how old is that if you don't mind me asking?
I am still following you here and since I am new to machining I really haven't had any input for you as of yet. I will try to focus on giving my view and see if I am on the right track. I will want you to comment on my input when I do. I will continue to follow along here in the shadows.
Don
I am still following you here and since I am new to machining I really haven't had any input for you as of yet. I will try to focus on giving my view and see if I am on the right track. I will want you to comment on my input when I do. I will continue to follow along here in the shadows.
Don
bezalel2000
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 8, 2011
- Messages
- 316
- Reaction score
- 7
Well OK! since 'e is soliciting so hard, let me show Sensei Dave San how the student would attempt this one. :
Basically, I would have done it pretty much back to front from what Dave did.
The thought of running an interupted cut on a relatively thin casting up to 2" from the colllet - well - let's say, without the demo, I would not have been that brave.
The other consideration for me is go with the tools you know best - and as a machinist, I make a pretty good fettler.
One casting I pulled out of the sand had a generous flash along the part line - so a bit of a touch up in the recesses with a file then off to the linisher for a few minutes.
It seams to me at this stage, so as long as the engine contact face is relatively flat and parallel to the front face of the cover (give or take a couple of thou) all will be fine.
With that in mind, and I know I can get better than wood workers accuracy ( no offence intended) on the linishing table top, the last operation on the linisher is to flatten and true up the back face of the cover ( and no risk of chatter) next step find and mark the location of the main shaft center as relative to the other castings and mount the cover on the lathe face plate ready for boring the same way Dave did it.
That's pretty much where it's at now.
Bez
Basically, I would have done it pretty much back to front from what Dave did.
The thought of running an interupted cut on a relatively thin casting up to 2" from the colllet - well - let's say, without the demo, I would not have been that brave.
The other consideration for me is go with the tools you know best - and as a machinist, I make a pretty good fettler.
One casting I pulled out of the sand had a generous flash along the part line - so a bit of a touch up in the recesses with a file then off to the linisher for a few minutes.
It seams to me at this stage, so as long as the engine contact face is relatively flat and parallel to the front face of the cover (give or take a couple of thou) all will be fine.
With that in mind, and I know I can get better than wood workers accuracy ( no offence intended) on the linishing table top, the last operation on the linisher is to flatten and true up the back face of the cover ( and no risk of chatter) next step find and mark the location of the main shaft center as relative to the other castings and mount the cover on the lathe face plate ready for boring the same way Dave did it.
That's pretty much where it's at now.
Bez
And there you have it sports fans! Another way to do it!
Thanks Bez!
:bow:
So you guys and gals wondering how to set up "YOUR" part....here's three approaches to get the juices flowing as to how to solve your machining problem. Again, I don't need another thread on building something....I'm trying to help out the less experienced ones here...these aren't the only ways...but one might fit your situation...or give you the idea to another.
Dave
PS Sensei!? Unlikely.......
Thanks Bez!
:bow:
So you guys and gals wondering how to set up "YOUR" part....here's three approaches to get the juices flowing as to how to solve your machining problem. Again, I don't need another thread on building something....I'm trying to help out the less experienced ones here...these aren't the only ways...but one might fit your situation...or give you the idea to another.
Dave
PS Sensei!? Unlikely.......
Dave,
It is about this time I usually chip in on someones build, and I have to say you are doing great work, and very easy to understand, keep it up.
BTW, I can't use a four jaw any more with any ease, very difficult with one good hand, but I really do enjoy faceplate work, but unlike yourself, I use it mainly for four jaw work that needs doing, but I get around the problem with a Keats angle plate, much easier for me as it is just a matter of tapping it into position, before tightening up. But I do have other faceplates of different sizes, one with t-slots and a small one with holes and clamps all over it. Designed to transfer between my lathe an mill, so saving a lot of resetting up.
As you say, everyone is different, what works for one might not work for another, so if one settup works for yourself, then stick with it, as long as it is safe to do so.
John
It is about this time I usually chip in on someones build, and I have to say you are doing great work, and very easy to understand, keep it up.
BTW, I can't use a four jaw any more with any ease, very difficult with one good hand, but I really do enjoy faceplate work, but unlike yourself, I use it mainly for four jaw work that needs doing, but I get around the problem with a Keats angle plate, much easier for me as it is just a matter of tapping it into position, before tightening up. But I do have other faceplates of different sizes, one with t-slots and a small one with holes and clamps all over it. Designed to transfer between my lathe an mill, so saving a lot of resetting up.
As you say, everyone is different, what works for one might not work for another, so if one settup works for yourself, then stick with it, as long as it is safe to do so.
John
