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Thanks Dave
during the week ill sort out something :)
after work today i needed an easy part to make.
I ended up using the 4 jaw as the shape was a bit off.
Pete
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You can make a decent between centres boring bar with not much more than scrap material. The steel for the bar doesn't matter much, they all have about the same Youngs modulus. Th cutter can be made from a broken tap or something similar.

Mounting your part accurately on the cross slide is probably the hardest part. I made a tooling plate for my cross slide which made it easier to clamp larger parts. See below for a case of pushing the capabilities of a Myford lathe to the limit. I wouldn't recommend this - the weight on the cross slide coupled with the cutting forces is really too much for a little lathe, but the results were fine. The material is continuous cast iron bar.

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Hi Bill
I have been on the look out for a scrap bit of bar, but I really need to buy a live center.
Im hoping to get to the shops after work on monday, if i get finished in time.
Some time this week, all the stars will line up for me and ill get it done :big:
I had hoped to have the crank done by now too
Pete
PS
my lathe has two very nice hold down slots on the cross slide, going across the Ways so work holding should be easy ( famous last words :big: )
 
Sounds good. My lathe has tee slots in the cross slide, but for large or awkward shaped parts a tooling plate can be better. I had no choice with the job in the photo - it was far too large for the Myford cross slide tee slots.
 
billmac said:
Sounds good. My lathe has tee slots in the cross slide, but for large or awkward shaped parts a tooling plate can be better. I had no choice with the job in the photo - it was far too large for the Myford cross slide tee slots.

Yes....I had the same issue with my Logan, and the plate helped a great deal.

Dave
 
good to see progress
and i thought those castings were a better quality than the ones i have seen and had from woking
ie sealion and kittywake just about did my head in getting them sorted still have one kittywake set not worth the hassle with holes and hard spots every where
ps havent sent your book yet (working two jobs at 54 years takes some getting used to) but have some time to my self friday will try to remember them
cheers john
 
Hi John
No arruymate
The castings are real nice to machine with no air bubbles or holes.
I cast up a part for my lathe yesterday arvo and while its usable, its nothing like Bezs stuff. :)
 
Good to hear you are pouring your own bits , its good fun hey. I had a look in the foundry section couldn't find it anywhere, can't be that bad if it is useable :big:. Wobbly (Wallaby) bits look good.
Brock
 
Hi Brock
I just went out to the shed to take a pic for you
The broken dial in my hand, came that way when i got the lathe, but with my new foundry, it was all the excuse i needed :big:
I have been picking that handle up of the floor ever since my first Engine the Webster, its going to take some getting used to ;D
there are some very tiny air bubbles if you look hard enough, but as I said its usable, its better then it was and i made it!
One day i will make a ball turning thingy and make better handles all round.
When i got the lathe, the only handle on the whole thing was on the tail stock.
Pete
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got to the shops the other day and bought a live center, so today i milled a bit of scrap so that the block is on lathe center, also made up 4 tee nuts to suit.
All i need now are 4 -3/8 bolts to hold down the block.
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Pete,

You really need to invest some cash into buying a few lengths of threaded rod and nuts of different sizes.

Not only is it a lot cheaper than buying bolts of specific length, you can just cut the rod to the exact length you require, and it is easily reusable for other jobs as well.

When working with castings, you would find it indispensable when it comes to holding fixtures and fittings.


John
 
Bogstandard said:
Pete,

You really need to invest some cash into buying a few lengths of threaded rod and nuts of different sizes.

Not only is it a lot cheaper than buying bolts of specific length, you can just cut the rod to the exact length you require, and it is easily reusable for other jobs as well.

When working with castings, you would find it indispensable when it comes to holding fixtures and fittings.


John

Ditto!
Dave
 
I'd also suggest you make some proper Tee section nuts, its not unknown for a nut like you have to pull through the tee slot and bring the CI with it due to over use of the big spanner.

J
 
You probably know this already, but it can be helpful to run a rubber band around the lathe dog and the catch plate spigot so that they don't bang around when you start the cut. Once the cut is established there is no problem of course.
 
Hi Brock
I can do this! ;D

Hi Bogs
Thats a great idea, will do!

Hi Dave ;D

Hi jason
I had not thought of that
I might just use the 4 Tee nuts used for the compound
they look about m8 or something

Hi Bill
ill have a go with the rubber band :)
 
metalmad said:
Hi Brock
I can do this! ;D
I have no doubt at all but if you are anything like me it still gets you going. Don't even get me going about first start after an engine build anxiety. One of them boring bars is on my list. Eagerly awaiting the next cut.
Brock
 
Hi Brock
I was feeling a little worried about it.
But the line bore is done now and while a little over size, at least they are all wrong together :big:
Ill just make the bearings to suit ;D
My boring bar needs a grub screw behind the cutter, for adjustment next time.
Pete

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Very well done indeed Pete.

Jobs like this always seem to be very daunting because so much is at stake, but once you got into it and finished the job, you most probably now realise it wasn't a major issue after all, and you have already noticed that you can make it easier by use of a grub screw.

Next time you have to do it, you won't be scared of it and it will turn out perfect.

Another string for your bow.

BTW, have a look at my signature line, very true words.


John
 

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