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1Kenny said:Here is my lathe.
Lots of chips, I like it.
Show Us Your Lathe
- Thread starter rake60
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Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
Lots of chips, I like it.
I just picked up a small Atlas with a ton of tooling from a guy whose dad used it until he passed on. I'll get pics up when I clean it up a little, but that drill bit reminded me of something.. in with all the tooling were four, count 'em four 3/4" drill bits. A pile of bits smaller than 3/8", but nothing much else larger. Anybody know why somebody might want four 3/4" drills for a small (~6") lathe?
georgeseal
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Well heres my Craftsman 12" that I have owned for thirty five years
George from Conyers
gt2ride -
On my lathe, the headstock bearings are adjusted by adding or removing shims between the bearing tops and the base. They are really thin, some like paper. There is also an end play adjustment on the left end, a ring with a clamp screw.
You'll see that my head is a little different than yours, but I'll bet they are similar inside. I haven't had any real problems with the flat belt, the one that came with it was kind of oil soaked, so I made a new one. I glued the new one so its joint is less noticeable. I made that out of leather, but I have heard of people using automotive flat belts and skived glue joints. I'm not sure what you have in mind for a guide.
those oil cups lead inside to wicks that take oil up to the spindle. you might see if you can clean them out. Also try adding a little spindle oil directly to the top of the spindle next to the bearing and let it wick in. If it has been sitting a while, it could just be a little dry.
Just some ideas... may have no "bearing" on your situatuion.
Doug
On my lathe, the headstock bearings are adjusted by adding or removing shims between the bearing tops and the base. They are really thin, some like paper. There is also an end play adjustment on the left end, a ring with a clamp screw.
You'll see that my head is a little different than yours, but I'll bet they are similar inside. I haven't had any real problems with the flat belt, the one that came with it was kind of oil soaked, so I made a new one. I glued the new one so its joint is less noticeable. I made that out of leather, but I have heard of people using automotive flat belts and skived glue joints. I'm not sure what you have in mind for a guide.
those oil cups lead inside to wicks that take oil up to the spindle. you might see if you can clean them out. Also try adding a little spindle oil directly to the top of the spindle next to the bearing and let it wick in. If it has been sitting a while, it could just be a little dry.
Just some ideas... may have no "bearing" on your situatuion.
Doug
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Hi Doug,
If you hadn't already found it here is a bit of a write up on the Southbend Heavy. It mentions in the text about using standard v belts on the flat cone pulley.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/page4.html
John
If you hadn't already found it here is a bit of a write up on the Southbend Heavy. It mentions in the text about using standard v belts on the flat cone pulley.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/page4.html
John
Hi John,
The motor to jackshaft does use a "v" belt, seems odd, but it is a "v" pulleyon the motor, flat pulley on the jackshaft, and that's how it was supposed to be.
I found this in the "Lathes UK" writeup.
"A rather unusual feature was the drive from electric motor to countershaft; the motor pulley was a two-step V type which drove, via a V belt, onto a very large-diameter, narrow, flat pulley. This apparently senseless idea (of a V belt working on a flat pulley) actually performs perfectly well - but it has been known for disbelieving owners of used lathes to convert the motor pulley to a narrow flat type - and suffer dreadful slip as a result."
That part really does work well, the leather flat belt driving the spindle will slip long before the "V" belt does.
before
after
The motor to jackshaft does use a "v" belt, seems odd, but it is a "v" pulleyon the motor, flat pulley on the jackshaft, and that's how it was supposed to be.
I found this in the "Lathes UK" writeup.
"A rather unusual feature was the drive from electric motor to countershaft; the motor pulley was a two-step V type which drove, via a V belt, onto a very large-diameter, narrow, flat pulley. This apparently senseless idea (of a V belt working on a flat pulley) actually performs perfectly well - but it has been known for disbelieving owners of used lathes to convert the motor pulley to a narrow flat type - and suffer dreadful slip as a result."
That part really does work well, the leather flat belt driving the spindle will slip long before the "V" belt does.
before
after
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So thats a EMCO Maximat 10v-P, it looks like a dandy machine like a shoptask.
Very cool.
Very cool.
Macona, WOW that is the first lathe that I have seen that I would call beautiful! Thanks for sharing it with us. Do you know how old it is?
Your right when you say like comparing a BMW Motorcycle to a little Chinese scooter. I know literally nothing about lathes of different size and brands but that one of yours looks very stout and Very impressive. I know it's the first red one I've seen.
Welcome aboard the group.
Mel
Your right when you say like comparing a BMW Motorcycle to a little Chinese scooter. I know literally nothing about lathes of different size and brands but that one of yours looks very stout and Very impressive. I know it's the first red one I've seen.
Welcome aboard the group.
Mel
macona
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Ooo.. Tool gloat time!
This Monarch was built in 06/1942 called a "Round Dial" for its round threading/feed selector dial. Originally a war machine it has tags internally from the Detroit Ordinance District. 0-2500 RPM infinitely adjustable 12.5" swing 20" between centers. With taper attach and threading stop built into cross feed screw. Came with 6 jaw Buck Adjust-tru, original 8" 3 jaw, 8" 4 jaw, 11" face plate, steady, follow, 5C collet nose and drawbar, traveldial (Replaced with DRO)
The 10EE began production in 1939 with a hydraulic variable speed drive which was replaced soon after with a Ward-Leonard style Motor-Generator variable speed system where a three phase motor runs a generator and an exciter which in turns runs a 3HP DC motor with an integral shifting gear box for a back gear. The drive is capable of accelerating 0 to 2500 rpm within 3 to 4 seconds and full stop in 2 seconds without a mechanical braking system.
Later the motor generator was upgraded to a vacuum tube based system which lasted until 1983. At that point it went to a solid state drive until recently where they switched to a 7.5hp ac motor with a VFD.
The lathe came out of the factory with .000030 spindle runout, less than .0005 per foot bed straightness. Oil pump in the apron lubes the ways as the saddle moves. Also an oil system in the tailstock. The spindle is separated from the motor by two large v belts to eliminate any motor vibration from getting into the spindle and affecting the finish. The gearbox is also driven by a flat belt when in feed mode to insure there is no gear train noise going back to the spindle as well. The spindle had built in forward/neutral/reverse selector do disengage the threading gearing when the lathe is not being used to thread. While cutting you can set a nicked on edge of the headstock and it will not move. All of this gives the finest finish of any lathe ever built to this day.
Think it as a heavier, larger swing version of a Hardinge HLV-H. Weighs over 3000 lbs. You can still buy one new from the factory today. About $80,000. A Factory rebuilt one is about 40 to 50k.
Heres a few more pics. First is when I had it set up for making windings to try and repair the coolant pump, middle pic is a spare drive system for it, and the last is a pic of when I got it a couple months ago.
This Monarch was built in 06/1942 called a "Round Dial" for its round threading/feed selector dial. Originally a war machine it has tags internally from the Detroit Ordinance District. 0-2500 RPM infinitely adjustable 12.5" swing 20" between centers. With taper attach and threading stop built into cross feed screw. Came with 6 jaw Buck Adjust-tru, original 8" 3 jaw, 8" 4 jaw, 11" face plate, steady, follow, 5C collet nose and drawbar, traveldial (Replaced with DRO)
The 10EE began production in 1939 with a hydraulic variable speed drive which was replaced soon after with a Ward-Leonard style Motor-Generator variable speed system where a three phase motor runs a generator and an exciter which in turns runs a 3HP DC motor with an integral shifting gear box for a back gear. The drive is capable of accelerating 0 to 2500 rpm within 3 to 4 seconds and full stop in 2 seconds without a mechanical braking system.
Later the motor generator was upgraded to a vacuum tube based system which lasted until 1983. At that point it went to a solid state drive until recently where they switched to a 7.5hp ac motor with a VFD.
The lathe came out of the factory with .000030 spindle runout, less than .0005 per foot bed straightness. Oil pump in the apron lubes the ways as the saddle moves. Also an oil system in the tailstock. The spindle is separated from the motor by two large v belts to eliminate any motor vibration from getting into the spindle and affecting the finish. The gearbox is also driven by a flat belt when in feed mode to insure there is no gear train noise going back to the spindle as well. The spindle had built in forward/neutral/reverse selector do disengage the threading gearing when the lathe is not being used to thread. While cutting you can set a nicked on edge of the headstock and it will not move. All of this gives the finest finish of any lathe ever built to this day.
Think it as a heavier, larger swing version of a Hardinge HLV-H. Weighs over 3000 lbs. You can still buy one new from the factory today. About $80,000. A Factory rebuilt one is about 40 to 50k.
Heres a few more pics. First is when I had it set up for making windings to try and repair the coolant pump, middle pic is a spare drive system for it, and the last is a pic of when I got it a couple months ago.
macona
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I was looking at a Colchester 2500 before I bought the EE. But the parts prices are insane over here. $600 for a gear shift handle!
Oh, as for the comparison on Lathes a EMCO (Not Enco) is a very nice swiss made lathe. I was looking at one as well before I bought the EE. But it was just too small. Pretty much any of these ShopTasks and HF stuff are really junk from China (Heck I had a Griz 7x12). Taiwan stuff is good to very good. European stuff can be excellent where they have not cut corners. There is no manual lathe made in the US any more (Possible exceptions being the Harding HLV-H and Monarch 10EE which is made from old castings).
Of the old American iron in existance the popular ones are Atlas (Low to med-good quality), South Bend and Logan (Good to Very Good quality.) Clausing (Very Good) and Hardinge and Monarch (None Better)
South Bends are highly overrated and sell for way too much. You could get a nice Rockwell, Clausing or Logan for cheaper and have better machine. Kind like Starbucks, mediocre quality for premium price
Oh, as for the comparison on Lathes a EMCO (Not Enco) is a very nice swiss made lathe. I was looking at one as well before I bought the EE. But it was just too small. Pretty much any of these ShopTasks and HF stuff are really junk from China (Heck I had a Griz 7x12). Taiwan stuff is good to very good. European stuff can be excellent where they have not cut corners. There is no manual lathe made in the US any more (Possible exceptions being the Harding HLV-H and Monarch 10EE which is made from old castings).
Of the old American iron in existance the popular ones are Atlas (Low to med-good quality), South Bend and Logan (Good to Very Good quality.) Clausing (Very Good) and Hardinge and Monarch (None Better)
South Bends are highly overrated and sell for way too much. You could get a nice Rockwell, Clausing or Logan for cheaper and have better machine. Kind like Starbucks, mediocre quality for premium price
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Macona, That is without a doubt the prettiest lathe I have ever seen..Almost too nice to use!!! Might good job of refinishing..
Julian
Julian
Cedge
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Macona
That monarch is a show piece and something to be proud of. I was offered an identical machine about a week ago, but I don't have the power source available and no clue how I'd ever get it in the garage if I had it. The guy who offered it was telling me it was used onboard a naval warship in its early working life which also began in 1942. He mentioned the motor being capable of DC voltage operation but I didn't ask for details. So far I've had to walk away from deals on the Monarch and a Hendy of a little smaller stature in the past couple of months.
I'd bet the darned thing runs like a dream....it sure looks the part.
Steve
That monarch is a show piece and something to be proud of. I was offered an identical machine about a week ago, but I don't have the power source available and no clue how I'd ever get it in the garage if I had it. The guy who offered it was telling me it was used onboard a naval warship in its early working life which also began in 1942. He mentioned the motor being capable of DC voltage operation but I didn't ask for details. So far I've had to walk away from deals on the Monarch and a Hendy of a little smaller stature in the past couple of months.
I'd bet the darned thing runs like a dream....it sure looks the part.
Steve
macona
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I know they have some castings still but they have not had any cast in a long time from what I understand. New machine is around $80k from what I know.
I wouldnt pass up a EE because of the power requirements. I built a simple dynamic phase converter to run it off of. I will also use that to run the carbide tool grinder I am bringing home tomorrow.
The main motor in the EE is a DC motor. Runs off of 115v for the field and 230v for the armature. The generator that is direct coupled to the main AC motor provides the 0-230v DC for the armature and the belt coupled exciter provides the 115v for the field and all the control contactors.
3 phase is good for more than big lathes. It can show significant increase in surface finish over a standard single phase induction motor. So if you do find a lathe with a 3 ohase motor dont swap out the motor. Get a phase converter or better yet get a VFD and drive it with that.
I wouldnt pass up a EE because of the power requirements. I built a simple dynamic phase converter to run it off of. I will also use that to run the carbide tool grinder I am bringing home tomorrow.
The main motor in the EE is a DC motor. Runs off of 115v for the field and 230v for the armature. The generator that is direct coupled to the main AC motor provides the 0-230v DC for the armature and the belt coupled exciter provides the 115v for the field and all the control contactors.
3 phase is good for more than big lathes. It can show significant increase in surface finish over a standard single phase induction motor. So if you do find a lathe with a 3 ohase motor dont swap out the motor. Get a phase converter or better yet get a VFD and drive it with that.
C
compound driver
Guest
Hi macona
I agree with you fully on the three phase thing, i wouldnt have a single phase machine to be honest.
The only problem in the Uk is getting three phase into a workshop at home. Im OK mine is classed as a full workshop so insurance and such is not a big problem. The sting in the tail was the 14k to have the power company run the trench and cables 29 feet from the junction!!!!
The Monarch certainly is a nice looking lathe and a damned good machine to use. We had one for a short time in the works in Boston it was later replaced with a Hardinge. One of the other machines a i rather enjoyed using was a Logan 10. Much the same as the Southbend but a lot more substantial if very prone to belt slip if the sheaves were not well polished.
Cheers Kevin
I agree with you fully on the three phase thing, i wouldnt have a single phase machine to be honest.
The only problem in the Uk is getting three phase into a workshop at home. Im OK mine is classed as a full workshop so insurance and such is not a big problem. The sting in the tail was the 14k to have the power company run the trench and cables 29 feet from the junction!!!!
The Monarch certainly is a nice looking lathe and a damned good machine to use. We had one for a short time in the works in Boston it was later replaced with a Hardinge. One of the other machines a i rather enjoyed using was a Logan 10. Much the same as the Southbend but a lot more substantial if very prone to belt slip if the sheaves were not well polished.
Cheers Kevin
macona
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There is a company over here that makes a product called phase perfect (http://www.phaseperfect.com/). Makes three phase as good if not better than utility 3 phase from single phase. Up to 96amps. Not cheap but cheaper than having 3 phase ran in.
But there is one other reason not to have 3 phase ran in. That is you dont have to pay a "demand" charge which can be a real killer when starting large motors.
Logans are way underrated. In general much nicer than a SB and parts are still available (http://www.lathe.com) There was a nice 14" gearhead Logan in the local craigslist here a week or so going for only $1200!
But there is one other reason not to have 3 phase ran in. That is you dont have to pay a "demand" charge which can be a real killer when starting large motors.
Logans are way underrated. In general much nicer than a SB and parts are still available (http://www.lathe.com) There was a nice 14" gearhead Logan in the local craigslist here a week or so going for only $1200!
