Injected Diesel 56cc 2 Stroke, Will it ever work?"

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Lloyd-ss

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This side conversation might be getting a bit esoteric, but that's ok.
An art, vs a science, in a more technical application.
I originally heard that: art vs science, from a sales rep for military style round connectors. His statement was that soldering was an art, and crimping was a science, and it made perfectly good sense to me in that application. Two broad classifications. Call it an art, a craft, a skill, whatever you want. With the crimping, with proper calibrated tools, most people, with the slightest bit of technical ability, can make a proper crimp joint on a connector pin. But soldering, no, that is an art (or a skill, call it whatever you want), that even with hours of training, some people cannot do. Like making a beautiful tig weld. I will call it an art if it requires a certain ability to make very subtle instantaneous decisions and adjustments in a process to achieve the desired perfect result.

I know that the 2 broad classifications is an over simplification, but it is just to make the point that even with lots of training, there are some things that many people just cannot master. In fact, much of the work that is done on this forum might be considered to be art more than a science. But it is a continuum, with lots of opinions to go along with it.

Just my thoughts on the subject.

Lloyd
 

Lloyd-ss

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The valve spring seat pockets are now machined Even though there is a one inch difference in the height of the injector and valve stems, there will be a single rocker arm shaft for all 3 rockers. The injector will have its rocker beam above the shaft and the valves will have their rocker beams below the shaft. Their will be only two pillars to support the shaft, mimicking the Detroit Diesel layout. Because the strokes are so short, the radii from the shaft to the roller tips contacting the stem tips will be satisfactory.

A general 2d layout sketch of the entire engine is forth-coming.

HeadValves-2.jpg
 
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ajoeiam

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The valve spring seat pockets are now machined Even though there is a one inch difference in the height of the injector and valve stems, there will be a single rocker arm shaft for all 3 rockers. The injector will have its rocker beam above the shaft and the valves will have their rocker beams below the shaft. Their will be only two pillars to support the shaft, mimicking the Detroit Diesel layout. Because the strokes are so short, the radii from the shaft to the roller tips contacting the stem tips will be satisfactory.

A general 2d layout sketch of the entire engine is forth-coming.

View attachment 146553
How did you make/design the springs? (very curious)
 

Lloyd-ss

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How did you make/design the springs? (very curious)

That is some nice valve and spring work !

.
Total transparency here guys. I mentioned this path earlier, but it bears repeating. The work on the roots blower and the injector was 95% me, and the effort to get both functioning properly, just about beat me into the ground. So I decided to not get burnt out on the project by helping myself with a few purchased parts. I feel like the model should be like those huge dinosaur skeletons in the museums where the fake bones are a different color, LOL.

So, the spring for the injector is left over from a drum brake rebuild kit. The pair of exhaust valves with springs, retainers and keepers were from rebuild kits for 50cc motor bikes (shipped from North Carolina). Bought on eekBay for a ridiculously low price. Much less than one hour of a psychotherapy session that was the other alternative, ha ha.

Lloyd
 

Lloyd-ss

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Here is a sketch of the 3 rockers that will be on a common shaft with thin-wall bronze bushings. Each rocker will have a half inch of length on the shaft, which should offer plenty of stability. The two small circles at the top of each valve stem show the max up and down position of each valve.

And a photo of the head with the rocker shaft and pillars. There is enough space around the edge of the head to fit seven more-or-less evenly spaced head bolts.

ValveRocker.jpg

RockerShaft.jpg
 

ajoeiam

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Total transparency here guys. I mentioned this path earlier, but it bears repeating. The work on the roots blower and the injector was 95% me, and the effort to get both functioning properly, just about beat me into the ground. So I decided to not get burnt out on the project by helping myself with a few purchased parts. I feel like the model should be like those huge dinosaur skeletons in the museums where the fake bones are a different color, LOL.

So, the spring for the injector is left over from a drum brake rebuild kit. The pair of exhaust valves with springs, retainers and keepers were from rebuild kits for 50cc motor bikes (shipped from North Carolina). Bought on eekBay for a ridiculously low price. Much less than one hour of a psychotherapy session that was the other alternative, ha ha.

Lloyd
Aw shucks - - - - and I thought I could learn how to make such wonderful looking items - - - - bummer (fake pouting - - - - lol).

Hopefully not to frustrating being asked - - - - I can understand the need to finally get something done.

Sadly - - - - all too often!
 

Lloyd-ss

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Aw shucks - - - - and I thought I could learn how to make such wonderful looking items - - - - bummer (fake pouting - - - - lol).

Hopefully not to frustrating being asked - - - - I can understand the need to finally get something done.

Sadly - - - - all too often!
Joe,
I wind springs when I "have to." Not too bad if you have the right dia spring wire on hand. With a hand crank on the lathe spindle, and a length of wire and a piece of round stock clamped into the chuck together, just keep a lot of tension on the wire by pulling straight out away from the lathe with a pair of pliers, and turning the hand crank. You can pretty much eye-ball the coil spacing. Cut off the excess wire and crappy coils from the spring. Closing the ends is the hardest part. With a little butane torch or similar, heat the end coil exactly where you want it to bend. Just the tiniest spot of red. Bend it quickly to close the coil. Flatten the end coil using the side of the bench grinder wheel. Use water to kill the heat.
 

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