Proposal to design a "First Build" engine

[black85vette]

Timing is easy. Put the pivot on the flywheel at 12 o’clock then put the pivot for the crank at 9 o’clock. They are 90 degrees apart to start out. Tighten the set screw for the crank allowing some clearance for the bushing so it does not bind. The bushing can be moved left and right to line up the connecting rods which should be straight with the piston and valve. If you want a thicker flywheel just make the bushing shorter to keep the alignment correct.

 

[black85vette]

The air connection is up to you. I used some brass tubing with an inside diameter of .125 and enlarged the air vent to allow it to be glued in place with epoxy. Just make the hole about .125 inch deep and do not allow the epoxy to run into the valve cylinder.

Clean everything really well. Flush out the valve and cylinder bodies with solvent to remove any specs of metal. Flush the piston and valve. Set everything on clean paper towels to avoid getting dirt or grit into the moving parts. Spray all the parts with WD-40, assemble the engine and spin the flywheel. If every thing is right you should get 3 to 4 revolutions with a flick of your finger. Track down and resolve any friction, interference, or binding issues.

Now the fun part. Hook up some compressed air at about 10 lbs and give it a spin. If it seems stiff you can increase the air until it continues to run. After running for a bit you should be able to reduce the air to under 5 lbs. After it is running smoothly try moving the timing in both directions and see if there is a spot where it runs the best and tighten the set screw there.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Nice black85vette. Good detail.

You mentioned making a tap guide (as a custom tool). I'd suggest you include instructions for that too.

The flywheel you showed being cut isn't the same one as on the engine is it? And did I understand correctly that the flywheel is just taped to the jaws of the chuck?

I don't think you intended to show all the itty steps in your posts...but I was curious about how the flywheel was mounted. There's one shot from the valve side I think where the connecting rod to the flywheel is nearly horizontal and so is blocking the view of the center of the flywheel. If you include pictures or illustrations, I'd suggest turning the flywheel.

Is the project going to include suggestions on polishing up the various parts?

Great job.

 

[black85vette]

Thanks Zee;

You caught me! I made photos of all the parts as I made them some of them ended in the scrap box but the photo showed what I wanted so I used it. The flywheel I ended up with on mine is made of brass because I have a large supply of 1/4 inch scrap from work. So not every part shown being made is on the finished engine.

The flywheel is actually held in place by the live center. The tape is optional. I don't use it but have read where others do. It should help keep the part from slipping while you cut. I just make very light cuts.

The flywheel is mounted to the shaft with epoxy. I mention that in the part about the shaft. I will add it to the flywheel section also.

I have started gathering all the text from the posts and importing the pictures into MS Word format. Then I will export it to a .pdf when I am done and upload the .pdf and both sets of drawing.

Thanks for all your input on this project. Now we just need someone new to build it!



I am not going to do a lot of polish on this one. I am thinking paint will be an easy way to make it look good and stay with the E-Z idea. On mine I will polish the flywheel. (I think there is a law against painting brass)

 

[black85vette]

This project is close to completion. Got some time and really nice weather this afternoon so I got out the paint. Also polished the brass parts and sprayed them with a clear coat. I am pleased with the finished product.

I also got time to put all the text and pictures of the build into a document but have not got them into .pdf yet.

 

[vlmarshall]

Wow, that first pic looks more like a 3d rendering than a photo. :bow:

 

[IronHorse]

Thats what I thought too!!! I had to look at it for a while. Great looking engine

 

[black85vette]

Wow, that first pic looks more like a 3d rendering than a photo. :bow:

Thanks. My set up is far from ideal. I just shoot on my work bench and use my shop light on an arm to give me some front fill and deal with shadows from the over head light above the bench. I shoot on a piece of foam core poster board as a background. My camera does have a really good macro and super macro function. It is also fully manual when I need it.

 

[black85vette]

The plans for metric and US along with the written instructions are now uploaded in a .zip in the downloads / uploads section. Thanks to all who contibuted and particpated. :bow:

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Great job black85vette.
Nicely finished too.

 

[va4ngo]

A very worthwhile achievement, will look forward to other completed engines from first time builders.

Phil

 

[Twmaster]

Doggonit. That is sweet. I'm itching to build a motor. Sadly I do not have a working lathe in the house. Even though I own 7 lathes! (I won't go into that right now) Bah.

Thankfully a buddy is loaning me his Taig so I can make parts to make lathes functional....

 

[AlasdairM]

OK - the E-Z engine looks like the perfect way for me to "get going" with my first engine. However, I am confused (not difficult) ;D

The instructions that I have downloaded (metric) show bronze for the piston, bushing and spacer.

Build documentation however shows brass for these. Are bronze and brass interchangeable? Can either be used?

More noob questions will follow from me I am sure.......

Regards, A

PS: if moderators think this should be posted elsewhere, rather than being added onto this thread, please feel free to move accordingly!

 

[Deanofid]

Alasdair, brass and bronze are not the same. I don't know why the met version would say bronze. I didn't notice any mention of materials at all on the english drawing!

I would use brass for the parts you mention, and I believe that is what they were meant to be.

Ask lots of questions! When you start your build, feel free to start a new topic in the "Work in Progress" section.

Dean

 

[black85vette]

Alasdair; Jump right in and don't be shy about asking questions. This was a team effort at design and all bugs may not have been exterminated. The metric drawings were done by Lykle. The U.S. drawings were done by me so there may be some minor differences. The instructions were written using the U.S. drawings. You can use the material specified or substitute what you prefer or have on hand.

You can help out by identifying any issues with the build. We can then make corrections and update the files. So your input will be very helpful. I agree with Deanofid. When you get started open a new topic in "Work in Progress" and let everyone follow along. Post pictures if possible.

 

[AlasdairM]

Daenofid and black85vette - thanks for the swift replies.

Brass it will be, and not bronze.

Hopefully the attachment shows the list I mean where it refers to bronze and not brass.

When I am brave enough to start work on it (probably not for a while, as I am still learning the very basic techniques on my lathe!) I will post it in Work in Progress thread (plus pictures, of course) ;D

All the best, A

View attachment 1 EZ Assembly and BOM.pdf

 

[Lykle]

About the metric drawings, be aware that I have not had time to actually build it.

So it is an unproved metric design.
As soon as I am settled in my new home (that I have yet to find) in Cyprus I will build one.
But that is months away.

Lykle

 

[AlasdairM]

Lykle - noted!

Hope the "house hunting" (as we call it over here in the UK) goes well and is not too stressful.

I imagine you will have found, bought and moved into the new house before I have completed the E-Z :-[

Regards, A

 

[black85vette]

Updated drawing for the upright frame. Correct dimensions for the 5 holes on the US plans.

Updated upright again for wrong position on the top left mounting hole. 11NOV09

View attachment upright3.pdf

 

[kvom]

For some reason I didn't catch thisw thread while it was brewing. The result looks really nice.

My only comment would be on the use of 4-40 screws. For some reason, these don't seem to be in ready supply in hardware stores around here. OTOH, 6-32 is found everywhere, and 5-40 is reasonably available.