Peewee V4

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Really good that this forum attracts people like yourself Steve. I for one am learing a lot here. Its the best engineering club I know of and no big bar bills! Sorted. :bow: :bow:
 
Steve,

I was looking at the picture of your crankshaft. Pretty impressive! Did you carve that out of a solid chunk of steel? How big was the original bar? Did you use the mill to hog some of it out or did you do the whole thing on the lathe?

Chuck
 
cfellows said:
Steve,

I was looking at the picture of your crankshaft. Pretty impressive! Did you carve that out of a solid chunk of steel? How big was the original bar? Did you use the mill to hog some of it out or did you do the whole thing on the lathe?

Chuck

Both machines were used.

I tried to post pictures but they are too large. I will resize and post pictures with explainations later. Going out to paint the Peewee right now. Give me a few hours!!

 
OK, I'm back!

The crankshaft started out as a 3/4 X 1" bar. I use square stock because it makes it alot easier to do things like drill the center drilled holes at the end. Also easier to flip and flop the crank for the milling stuff.

I did all the turning, then milled the counterweights out, then back to the lathe to part off the ends and thread the tail.

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Thanks, Steve. That's quite a job. Great result.

Chuck
 
Steve, what type of steel did you use for the crankshaft?

Great looking work, as always.
 
T70MkIII said:
Steve, what type of steel did you use for the crankshaft?

Great looking work, as always.


The plan called out 1018 CRS and that is what i used. Went to the local supplier and bought a slice just to make sure i had the correct stuff. If i grab a chunck from under the bench, I never really know what i have. I cant tell the difference.



Just to let ya know, I am still working on the Peewee from time to time. Did a paint job last week and after 3 days drying time I made a dry fit of some of the pieces that are ready. Tried to press in the dip stick tube and bent it so that will be the next piece. I have also made a "test" connecting rod and measured my deck height. Now i know what length i need to get my compression ratio to 6.5:1 with a .030 gasket. If i go to a .010 gasket it will boost me to 7.5:1. Connecting rods and rings will be the highest priority after the dipstick tube.



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Thanks, Steve - looks awesome in black with the contrasting parts.
 
Steve, I found it very helpful and my head is still fuzzed over from all the fantastic pain killers I am on. I know once I actually start a hands on it will work out for me.

Bob
 
Steve,

That's awesome! Totally missed this build post...not any more! :bow:

Now I just need to read it!

Dave
:)


on edit DONE!.....NICCCCCCCCCCE!
That water pump is just what I need....
Dave
 
Steve
Just wanted to chime in with the rest and comment on how awesome this build is. I have been a machinist since the early 70's but had to retire a while back but builds like this is what makes me want to get out in my shop this spring and start my first engine. I did have a question I looked through this thread a couple of times but couldn't find the article that you wrote on how you made that cam shaft could you put it in again or tell me where it is for I would very much like to read it. Again thanks for a fantastic build. Cliff
 
Cliff said:
I did have a question I looked through this thread a couple of times but couldn't find the article that you wrote on how you made that cam shaft could you put it in again or tell me where it is for I would very much like to read it. Again thanks for a fantastic build. Cliff

Hello Cliff!

I just sent the cam info to your yahoo mail box.

I'm glad you feel inspired by the peewee. I wish i was more inspired but it has been very cold and i work outside all day. Cant seem to drag myself out to the shop after i get home.

I did make it out there today. Made the head gaskets and a new dipstick tube. I really need to get going on the rods and rings. Tommorrow i'm going to make the fixture to get the rods going. Or maybe the intake manifold . . . .


 
I have finally made some progress.

The connecting rods are of the H beam type. I added a tail of sorts to splash the oil up into the rod bearing. The tail has a .045 hole running up to the bearing hole that will be transfered to the bearing. The bearing will have a small groove in it also.

Next will be bearings.

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Hi Steve,

ETW uses that technique too. He also used a windage tray formed as a circular shaped tray with holes at the bottom mounted on standoffs on in the crankcase sump.

The tray was mounted such that it was very close to the tail of the conrod as it swung by.

By adding a hole at the bottom of the tray and making sure the oil level was always higher than the hole, but not over the top of the tray, oil would flow up into the tray and be wiped off by the tail of the conrod. The remainder of the tray kept the oil below in the sump. The "Seal" used this.

Probably do the same for the mine too....just about as simple as a pile of rocks ::)

Dave
 
I did not know that. The Shores design just had the rod dip into the oil and splash it all over. I was hoping the rod would do the splashing and the wiper would feed the bearing.

This is a picture of Bob Shutt's rods. They are very close to the original designThere is supposed to be a screw that holds the wrist pin in. I hate to think what would happen if one of those screws gets away. My wrist pins will be pressed into the rod and float in the piston

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I have all the reciprocating/rotating goodies done. I have ordered a scale so i can start the process of weight matching and balancing. The rings were stretched and heated like in the Bob Shores "engine building tips" file.

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