No power !! Just a static work of art.
Cole’s Corliss Steam Engine
- Thread starter LaFrance4
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Richard Hed
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What a disappointment
Back to the Corliss engine. Was able to finish the basic machining of the flywheel today. Have not made up my mind on how to secure the flywheel to the shaft. Can’t say I like what the drawing calls for. Two angled set screws clamping on the shaft. That setup is asking for trouble, if the flywheel ever needs to come off the shaft.
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I’m building the same engine and was also skeptical of using set screws to fasten the flywheel to the crankshaft. I decided to use a custom tapered gib key and this has worked well, and looks good. The gib I made is 5/32” wide and 1/8” high at the thick end.
Good luck, and let us know what you decide.
Dave
Dave, sounds like a great idea. Thank you.
peterl95124
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I second Dave's advice, all flywheels should be keyed, the set screws are there just to keep it from sliding, I'll add that I sometimes use loctite thread sealant (sealant *not* locker) on my setscrews to prevent them from loosening while still being removable without heat.
Been a while since my last post. My wife and I loaded up the LaFrance Fire Engine and went to the Cabin Fever Expo. What an awesome time. So much to see and do. I must say I was not prepared for the immense amount of compliments for the LaFrance. At times it was overwhelming. The only down side to the trip was we came down with Covid-19.
Anyway, we are doing better and I have been able to get into the shop to work on the Corliss. Made the piston assembly and connecting rod with their lock nuts. The drawings indicate that the piston rings to be 0.030” larger than the cylinder bore. For such a small bore that amount of compressed is way too much. So I am going to use something that I have used on my other steam engines. It is graphite impregnated cord. I will make multiple wraps around the piston ring groove until I get the desired height.
Till later, Larry
Anyway, we are doing better and I have been able to get into the shop to work on the Corliss. Made the piston assembly and connecting rod with their lock nuts. The drawings indicate that the piston rings to be 0.030” larger than the cylinder bore. For such a small bore that amount of compressed is way too much. So I am going to use something that I have used on my other steam engines. It is graphite impregnated cord. I will make multiple wraps around the piston ring groove until I get the desired height.
Till later, Larry
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Richard Hed
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Had the covid twice, second time not bad at all. First time was irritating and the breathing prob lasted 6 weeks after the covid was over.
Good evening, it has been a while since my last posting, so I thought I would bring you up to date. My wife and I went to the Cabin Fever Expo in Lebanon, Pa. with the LaFrance and Rope Engine. What a special treat that was. So many great steam and gas models under one roof was a sight to behold. Then there was railroading, RC trucks and tanks and even a large man made pond inside for the RC boats for our viewing pleasure. I must say I was overwhelmed with all the kind comments and the awesome reception of the LaFrance Fire Engine. The only downside of the trip was we both came back with Covid-19. My wife bounced back pretty quickly, but it took me about 4 weeks before I really wanted to get up and do anything. When I did get back into the shop I marchined the 2 pedestals for the Steam Cylinder assembly. I used a 3/4” diameter ball end mill to go around the perimeter to general the 3/8” radius the drain called for. Then I started to work on the 4 pieces of cast iron that makes up the cylinder assembly. I selected two screw holes in opposite corners to drill and ream for 3/32” diameter dowel pins. Using the dowel pins will allow me to deburr and clean out the interior of the assembly and still be able to reassemble with the pieces going back together as they should be. I will drill and tap for 6-32 FHMS. I am making this screws so I can machine the head down to the surface of the cylinders block so no slots will be seen. Once the blocks have been assembled for the last time, I will drill and tap the dowel pin holes for their 6-32 FHMS. Going for the flush look.
Everything was going ok until the final grind on the side of the blocks. Something happened that caused the grinding wheel to leave some very unsightly grooves. Agh !! I tried to fly cut them out, but it was going to make the block a total of 0.010” to narrow. Since I did not want to start adjusting dimensions of other pieces to fit, I have started over making new pieces from CRS. Besides, I knew the assembly was not right, so a restart was in order. Just the way I am !!
I did remove the table from the grinder, cleaned the ways and lubricated it as it should be. Did a test grind on a piece of CRS. Came out great.
So, the new main block is almost down to size and flat ground CRS is on order. The main block was machined out of a
3-1/2” round bar stock. It has been a long process, but I am able to make the 36 FHMS while the mill does its thing.
This is enough for one setting.
Everything was going ok until the final grind on the side of the blocks. Something happened that caused the grinding wheel to leave some very unsightly grooves. Agh !! I tried to fly cut them out, but it was going to make the block a total of 0.010” to narrow. Since I did not want to start adjusting dimensions of other pieces to fit, I have started over making new pieces from CRS. Besides, I knew the assembly was not right, so a restart was in order. Just the way I am !!
I did remove the table from the grinder, cleaned the ways and lubricated it as it should be. Did a test grind on a piece of CRS. Came out great.
So, the new main block is almost down to size and flat ground CRS is on order. The main block was machined out of a
3-1/2” round bar stock. It has been a long process, but I am able to make the 36 FHMS while the mill does its thing.
This is enough for one setting.
