V4 14.59 CI

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johnlaudano

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I'm working on a V4 engine I designed. The crankcase is a weldment but the rest is made from solid on manual machines.
It will be fueled by gasoline or propane but I'm not sure which way to go. If it runs well it will likely power a boat of about six feet long.
I'm not a purist and my machines aren't very accurate so i bought pistons, rings, and valves.
The cylinder liners are 12L14. The cams are A2 steel and will be fastened to the shaft with 680 Loctite and pins.
The rest of you on this forum have been great inspiration and I see lots of fascinating projects and workmanship.
John
 

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I mis-typed in the title; the displacement is 10.0 CI.
The bore is 1.377 and the stroke is 1.686.
John
 
Having had bad luck with fabricated hall effect sensors, this time I plan to use an RCexl set up.
 
Thanks. I'm looking forward to those details as I likely will do the same on my next engine. Now will you buy a 4-cyl module or a single cylinder module & incorporate a mechanical distributer?
 
Thanks. I'm looking forward to those details as I likely will do the same on my next engine. Now will you buy a 4-cyl module or a single cylinder module & incorporate a mechanical distributer?
I’m going to use two units that each fire two cylinders.
 
Interesting engine, look forward to seeing it run. I like your idea of using manufactured parts where possible. What engine did the parts come from? Why are some pistons with dished tops some not? I found Honda pistons about this size are very nicely made with great rings. Beware of two stroke pistons as the pistons has some very exotic ods. I guess to account for thermal expansion.
 
Interesting engine, look forward to seeing it run. I like your idea of using manufactured parts where possible. What engine did the parts come from? Why are some pistons with dished tops some not? I found Honda pistons about this size are very nicely made with great rings. Beware of two stroke pistons as the pistons has some very exotic ods. I guess to account for thermal expansion.
The parts came from a Honda GX25. My guess about the pistons is that Honda has more than one supplier. There’s really not much of a dish in the two you see.
 
I'm working on a V4 engine I designed. The crankcase is a weldment but the rest is made from solid on manual machines.
It will be fueled by gasoline or propane but I'm not sure which way to go. If it runs well it will likely power a boat of about six feet long.
I'm not a purist and my machines aren't very accurate so i bought pistons, rings, and valves.
The cylinder liners are 12L14. The cams are A2 steel and will be fastened to the shaft with 680 Loctite and pins.
The rest of you on this forum have been great inspiration and I see lots of fascinating projects and workmanship.
John
Glad to see you purchased some really difficult to make parts. I’d add roller lifters too . I had some made for a machine I had built in industry my initial test of them was done on a Bridgeport mill it ran near full speed for two eeeks 24/7 the shop mgr finally shut it off so the mill would survive. I can’t remember how many lobes there were 4 or six I think and about double the spring pressure the machine was to use none failed and the cam was like new when we took it out . I think the mill was well broken in . running 23-2400 rpm so there were lots of cycles . I used standard roller bearings mounted in a hardened cam roller there are all kinds of roller bearings available. It’s not really necessary to nount the rollers bearing as I did as automotive rollers often ride right on a shaft I just wanted a hard roller too.
 
John,
You have a very unique and interesting engine design. If this is to be a working engine you might want to consider some added heat under your carburetor. That area may get pretty cold if you use a liquid fuel.
Jeff
 
Hi John .
Maybe it's because when taking pictures, it seems like the surface of the cylinder is quite rough, hopefully that doesn't affect the compression, maybe I'm wrong

View attachment 152099
Minh, the bores look rough due to grease. after they were honed i knew they would sit for a while before i got back to more activity,
John
 
John,
You have a very unique and interesting engine design. If this is to be a working engine you might want to consider some added heat under your carburetor. That area may get pretty cold if you use a liquid fuel.
Jeff
Jeff, that's a good point. I considered the problem but haven't come up with a simple way to do it. An exhaust cross-over tube maybe.
John
 
Its finally complete. Test running is next. On a warmer day.
Jeff, I added a carb warmer below the manifold. Warm water will run thru it.
John
 

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