Paddle Engine

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Yet more progress ,I must be on a bonus
PE14.jpg

PE15.jpg


Those eccentric arms need a lot of hours,so I thought they warrent another pic,still more work to do on them,the end plates and finishing off.Had enough for today so Ill have a look at the Olympics.
Don
 
Thanks Lads,nice to know I'm not on my own.
Don
 
You're definately on a bonus. The workmanship is superb
 
Just to show I have been doing a bit
PE16.jpg

A bit of fitting now and it can be set up and a trial run ,with a bit of luck a runner,the pipe work I shall take my time on then the pump,I dont think i shall make the wheels,of course the reversing gear,I was forgetting that(old age;))
I would like to add drain cocks but they ate hell of a price
 
Don, this is a beautiful engine. I've always loved these. You're doing a beautiful job. Will this be going in a boat?

Todd
 
No Todd,no boat for this one,I would have nowhere to keep it,I would hate to think how long it would be,as i said I don't think I will make the paddle wheels
Thanks for the kind remarks
Don
 
Well, it's a work of art none the less. Would probably be a shame to hide it inside the hull anyway. :)

Todd
 
It's a lovely looking engine. It always amazes me how people can get from rough stock materials to something beautifully made like that :) You should make the rest of the boat to put it in!
 
If i made the paddle boat I would have to build a shed to put it in,I wonder how long it would be?
My mind is thinking towards a 3 1/2" rob Roy at the moment as the next project,but I wlll have to think hard about it as I find close work getting a strain.
Don
 
I have to admit to a c--k up,started timming the valves and wondered why there was not enough movement in the valve to uncover the ports fully at each end ,so checked the sheave drawing,it asked for 5/32" of throw,and I did the stupid thing of halving that so i only have 5/32 of movement instead of 5/16",silly silly boy I am.
So it will mean remaking the sheaves,unless you guys can think of another way out ,I shall make the reversing lever next as a bit of light relief.
Don
 
Remaking those is pretty straightforward, so no big disaster, although there ARE 4 to redo. Taking the crank setup apart to re-install is irritating too.
 
Following with great interest.Great build Don.
One question:
Seems to me,or it looks like you riveted the more "solid parts" ,which carry the
studs, to the sheet metal.Is it correct or are these parts soldered or brazed and the rivets are dummies?
Great visual appearance anyway.

Cheers,Ralph
 
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Hi Don,

your proposal to build a 3.5" Rob Roy should be a bit more of the same. I see a lot of commonality between your paddle engine and the running chassis of Rob Roy. Your only concern is the length of time to complete the project. It took me 2 years to build but at your rate of progress it should be much less, but if age is a factor then take it a bit slower. I have a chair in the shed to sit down occassionally between stints.

Bad luck about the throw of the eccentrics being only half to that required. This is not a serious suggestion but you did ask. To make the throw twice that provided by the eccentrics is to have a pivot arm between the eccentrics and the slide valve which is twice the length between the pivot and the slide valve to that between the pivot and the eccentrics. But, that is more trouble than remaking the eccentrics. Good luck with stripping down the crankshaft, I hope it goes back together the same as before. Just checked your crankshaft design it's in two halves so no problemmo.

Brian
 
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Following with great interested.Great build Don.
One question:
Seems to me,or it looks like you riveted the more "solid parts" ,which carry the
studs, to the sheet metal.Is it correct or are these parts soldered or brazed and the rivets are dummies?
Great visual appearance anyway.

Cheers,Ralph
Hi Ralph,The frame is riveted together as brazing or silver soldering would cause all sorts of distortion,I only ever resort to heat when absolutly necessary.
Don
 
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Brian,yes age is a factor allright,I also have a chair in the garage,to sit down before I fall down;),I have been thinking about the sheaves in bed last night and thought I could put a plug in the old holes and redrill and ream the new hole alongside it,it would come into the old hole a bit but if I put the grub screw through the plug it wont go anywhere,I hate remaking stuff.
Don
 
well for a start I have no more material,and its only pushing a press fit plug in the hole then a jig to redrill and ream the new holes,which I would need anyway,
Don
 
PE18.jpg

PE17.jpg

All back to square one now,please take no notice of the flywheel,just a tempory affair to be able to turn it over,I have to decide on the reversing lever now,I had something in mind like the sketch,a simple lever from the link shaft to a slotted upright part fixed to the base on a pivot.
I am not to fussed on the loco type wheel and screw.
Don
 

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