MY Seadog
- Thread starter steamer
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
OK lets try this.
The bottom one is a section view of the head through the valves.
The bottom one has annotations showing how the water comes in through 3 holes from the barrel, goes around the head and comes out of the head.
I propose to make water passages with a slitting saw and enclose those passages with a ring that is glued on with Loctite.
What say you folk....genius, folly? or something in between......and more importantly, have you a better idea?
;D
Constructive criticism welcome!
Dave
The bottom one is a section view of the head through the valves.
The bottom one has annotations showing how the water comes in through 3 holes from the barrel, goes around the head and comes out of the head.
I propose to make water passages with a slitting saw and enclose those passages with a ring that is glued on with Loctite.
What say you folk....genius, folly? or something in between......and more importantly, have you a better idea?
;D
Constructive criticism welcome!
Dave
Hey Bob and gang,
I reposted the print of the head drawing as a link to my photobucket account. ( 5th post this page, below the jpg)
You can click on it and blow it up to get resolution. It is of the head itself without the enclosing ring.
Dave
I reposted the print of the head drawing as a link to my photobucket account. ( 5th post this page, below the jpg)
You can click on it and blow it up to get resolution. It is of the head itself without the enclosing ring.
Dave
Making progress.....the choice was to make the head
Setting up the head and fixture
Here's the machine set up.....very adaptable
The valve cages in place with the spark plug hole...not tapped yet
Custom reamer for the valve guide.
Time to cut the groove for the water jacket.....
Dave
Setting up the head and fixture
Here's the machine set up.....very adaptable
The valve cages in place with the spark plug hole...not tapped yet
Custom reamer for the valve guide.
Time to cut the groove for the water jacket.....
Dave
Looking good steamer. Did you decide on a final depth for the water jacket slot?
Steve,
Looking at the part, I see no problem going to .050 thick. That will be deep enough to keep the loctite out of the groove especially if I add some loctite grooves above and below the jacket......this should be an interesting operation....got to get me a DRO!
Dave
Looking at the part, I see no problem going to .050 thick. That will be deep enough to keep the loctite out of the groove especially if I add some loctite grooves above and below the jacket......this should be an interesting operation....got to get me a DRO!
Dave
steamer said:
I was thinking deeper not thicker. None of my business, keep cutting, you are doing an awesome job!!
stevehuckss396 said:
Only problem with going deeper is I get within the ring of the head bolts....I don't know much about the aluminum, but it is soft, I'm afraid it might distort....with 6/1 compression, I don't think over heating will be an issue...I just want some cooling there as opposed to letting the head fend for itself......
Dave
RonGinger
Well-Known Member
Dave showed some interesting faceplate work back a few pages. We have a fellow in our ME club that was a master of the faceplate- we used to call him Faceplate Rollie.
He had one very interesting fixture for setup. A piece of angle iron, maybe 2" flange about 12 " long. Near one end was mounted a big ball bearing- he favored a Volvo water pump bearing because he has a bunch in his scrap. On that bearing was mounted a threaded arbor made to exactly match his lathe spindle nose. The faceplate screwed onto this arbor.
The angle iron was first clamped in the bench vise so that the faceplate was horizontal. In this position it was eay to arrange things, and setup the clamps, because the plate was nice and flat. He had a rod attached to the angle iron that held an indicator so he could set parts to run true in this horizontal position.
Once everything was mounted and tight he moved the angle iron to make the faceplate vertical- like it will be in the lathe. In this position he added balance weights until the whole load was well balanced.
Then he would unscrew the faceplate, transfer it to his lathe and make the cut.
Later he bought a nice CNC mill, now everything he does in on the mill.
If you have ever heard of 'Rollies Fathers Method of lathe alignment" this is the same Rollie.
He had one very interesting fixture for setup. A piece of angle iron, maybe 2" flange about 12 " long. Near one end was mounted a big ball bearing- he favored a Volvo water pump bearing because he has a bunch in his scrap. On that bearing was mounted a threaded arbor made to exactly match his lathe spindle nose. The faceplate screwed onto this arbor.
The angle iron was first clamped in the bench vise so that the faceplate was horizontal. In this position it was eay to arrange things, and setup the clamps, because the plate was nice and flat. He had a rod attached to the angle iron that held an indicator so he could set parts to run true in this horizontal position.
Once everything was mounted and tight he moved the angle iron to make the faceplate vertical- like it will be in the lathe. In this position he added balance weights until the whole load was well balanced.
Then he would unscrew the faceplate, transfer it to his lathe and make the cut.
Later he bought a nice CNC mill, now everything he does in on the mill.
If you have ever heard of 'Rollies Fathers Method of lathe alignment" this is the same Rollie.
Hi Ron,
As you know, I count Rollie as my friend and one of my mentors. He is a very wise and talented guy who always shares his knowledge freely. I am always amazed at the simple solutions he comes up with for seemingly impossible to make parts......He's a real treasure, and is HIGHLY respected for his talent, common sense and knowledge. ( His Bently BR2 has to be seen in action to be appreciated)
Good People, This weekend coming, on Saturday, please come and meet Rollie and the rest of the great bunch of people of the New England Model Engineering Society in Waltham Massachusetts. We are having our annual show. Details are here. www.neme-s.org
Ron is past President and founder, and I am pleased to say one of my friends too.
Ron I do hope your bringing a car load....the kids will be bringing display items this year too! I am sure my son will want to explain his model boat to you. ;D
Dave
ps
I keep meaning to make Rollies faceplate set up fixture....just havn't gotten the "roundtuit" yet........ ;D
Dave
As you know, I count Rollie as my friend and one of my mentors. He is a very wise and talented guy who always shares his knowledge freely. I am always amazed at the simple solutions he comes up with for seemingly impossible to make parts......He's a real treasure, and is HIGHLY respected for his talent, common sense and knowledge. ( His Bently BR2 has to be seen in action to be appreciated)
Good People, This weekend coming, on Saturday, please come and meet Rollie and the rest of the great bunch of people of the New England Model Engineering Society in Waltham Massachusetts. We are having our annual show. Details are here. www.neme-s.org
Ron is past President and founder, and I am pleased to say one of my friends too.
Ron I do hope your bringing a car load....the kids will be bringing display items this year too! I am sure my son will want to explain his model boat to you. ;D
Dave
ps
I keep meaning to make Rollies faceplate set up fixture....just havn't gotten the "roundtuit" yet........ ;D
Dave
Checked with the experts yesterday, they say that the head is not worth the trouble to put water cooling in. It will be cool enough based on contact with the water cooled barrel alone
Saves a bunch of work for me!
Onward!
Dave
Saves a bunch of work for me!
Onward!
Dave
The head is nearly done
Needed to make a special D bit for the carb mount
The carb is locked in with a cotter, made of brass which needed to be located before the hole was finished. You can see the crescent shaped cut in the brass post in the second photo. Now that it's bored, I'll take that cotter out, shorten the far side .020" and put it back in. The 4-40 nut will clamp the cotter down and lock the carb in position.
....all I'm up for tonight.
Dave
Needed to make a special D bit for the carb mount
The carb is locked in with a cotter, made of brass which needed to be located before the hole was finished. You can see the crescent shaped cut in the brass post in the second photo. Now that it's bored, I'll take that cotter out, shorten the far side .020" and put it back in. The 4-40 nut will clamp the cotter down and lock the carb in position.
....all I'm up for tonight.
Dave
chuck foster
Well-Known Member
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looking good :bow:
chuck
chuck
