I agree, a wood cutting bandsaw blade with less teeth on it would be a bit more aggressive and cut more freely.
Model Sawmill Dreaming---
- Thread starter Brian Rupnow
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
I agree, a wood cutting bandsaw blade with less teeth on it would be a bit more aggressive and cut more freely.
Brian as I said early on in this thread its very easy to cut a ratchet wheel either using the edge of an endmill or a small fly cutter. You could easily cut a 4" diameter 200tooth gear which would slow your feed rate right down.
J
J
Jason--Your definition of "very easy" may be a bit different than mine, but you're right. Probably less work in that than any alternative hocus pocus.---Brian
Here is a download link to the drawings of this mill as .pdf files. Choose the "slow download" option. Its free and its not all that slow.---Brian
http://www.filefactory.com/file/6st1me5pmy5z/
http://www.filefactory.com/file/6st1me5pmy5z/
Last edited:
aonemarine
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2012
- Messages
- 887
- Reaction score
- 212
What if the paw that rotates the gear was spring loaded so that it would not advance the carrige would not advance unless there was very little pressure on the blade? I got a thing for springs lol.....
I haven't put this one to bed yet. Its just that my "real work" as design engineer has suddenly got very busy, and I'm working like mad every day to round out my year end. I have found it impossible to buy 1" round balsa in Canada---the only place I could find was a source in Colorado and they want $5 for a 24" length of 1" dia. balsa and $32 to ship it to me.
HOT DIGGITY POOP!!!! I'm a Sawyer!!! All it took was a double drive belt and a softer log. This is so NEAT!!!--Video to follow.-----Brian Rupnow .saw
Video---As promised. Thanks ever so much to all who followed my build. I may get around to running it with my Atkinson, I may not. Its been a great project, it works, and I'm ready to move on. I really am interested in building a small clutch, and that will probably be my next project.
Cogsy
Well-Known Member
Beautiful work as usual, but I really want to see it running with model engine power!
starnovice
Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2010
- Messages
- 194
- Reaction score
- 23
Now you can sell small boards that can be used for lagging on small steam engines 
Great job again!
th_wav
Pat
Great job again!
th_wav
Pat
Someone emailed me and wanted a better look at the sawn boards. Here you go Uute. I used some of the boards to build a doll crib for one of my grand daughters, but these three boards are pretty well representative of the sawn boards. If I was going to use them to make fine furniture, I would have to design and build a mini planing mill.
It seems I have been terribly remiss and not posted all of the information about the rack and pinion drive used on the carriage. A few people who have downloaded the plans and want to build this sawmill have been asking where I got them. So---Here is all the information.----Brian
starnovice
Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2010
- Messages
- 194
- Reaction score
- 23
... If I was going to use them to make fine furniture, I would have to design and build a mini planing mill.
Hmmmm, another project
Pat
StarRocker
Junior Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2013
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 0
Wow! I really enjoy the 'Saw Mill' chatter!! I have an album 'Steam Traction Engine' that has a couple photos of a saw mill that I ran in my classroom as part of a unit in Jr High science class on the historical development of energy. The saw mill was run by a water wheel set-up and or a steam engine. I am new at this site so I don't know it very well!! Thank you.
Now that the Odds and ends engine is mostly finished, I am going to revisit this thread. The sawmill took more power to drive it than I thought it would when I first designed it. This is not so much because of the power required to drive the saw, as it is the rate at which the carriage advances the saw into the log. I had used a variable pitch pawl to adjust this speed, but the lowest amount I could advance was one gear tooth at a time. Couldn't adjust to go any slower than that. I have thought about this problem, and the only way to reduce the speed of the carriage advance was to make a gear with a finer pitch, put in a smaller gear just above the existing gear so that I had an actual gear reduction, or go to a larger gear than the one I am currently using. Tonight I dug thru the change gears for my lathe and found a 125 tooth gear, which would give the carriage a 25% reduction in advance speed over the 100 tooth gear it is currently using. Since a lot of what I done on the sawmill was shear "guesswork", I have to try any changes and "see what happens" rather than calculate an outcome. The addition of a larger gear is by far the easiest thing to do, since the larger gear has the same center hole as the current 100 tooth gear, and will fit the existing arbor with no changes. Ultimately, I would like to use one of my i.c. engines, driving thru the cone clutch I designed and built to power the sawmill. Both the Odds and Ends and the Atkinson have 1" diameter pistons, and roughly equal strokes, so the power output should be the same from both of them. The only real difference is that the Atkinson is a throttled engine and is air cooled which limits its running time, while the Odds and ends is a non throttled engine and is water cooled. I will keep you informed of what happens.
starnovice
Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2010
- Messages
- 194
- Reaction score
- 23
Never a dull moment with you Brian. Again I am on the edge of my seat!
Pat
Pat
Having decided to get serious about this sawmill being run by one of my gasoline engines, I decided to replace the rubber o-ring drive belts with a #35 roller chain and sprockets between the clutch and the main "headshaft". They are amazingly inexpensive at Princess Auto, and they don't suck up nearly as much power as the rubber o-rings do, nor do they slip.
