Keyless or not, that is the question

[bretk]

Ok group, I need your opinion, I want to get a smaller 3/8" chuck for my x2 to use most of the time when I do not need the extra capacity of the 1/2" key chuck that came with it. Do I go Keyed or keyless? I know keyless are longer, thus reducing some of the extra height above the vice gained by using a smaller chuck. but I like my keyless on my southbend alot as it is much quicker for changing bits. However I also know that keyless chucks do not grip as tight as key chucks......So ??? ??? ???

Thanks, Bret

 

[Bogstandard]

Bret,

If it was me, I would go keyless.

I have never had any trouble with mine not holding tight enough, and you can get them now with the mounting taper integral with the chuck, thus making them shorter.

John

 

[alan2525]

Go for a keyless chuck. I've got an 1/2" capacity LFA industrial keyless chuck on my drill press and a 3/8" capacity Jacobs chuck on my Lathe and they are far nicer to use than the old keyed chucks.

 

[gilessim]

I would definitely go keyless, I'm convinced that they grip better than keyed ones, a while ago I put a new keyless on my power drill as the old keyed one was worn out, even when new, drilling into stone I was constantly re-tightening, thumb-breakingly tight, as masonry bits are very prone to slip drilling hard stone, but with the new chuck, no such problems, I wish I'd put one on years ago!

Giles

 

[te_gui]

My only issue with keyless chucks (maybe someone here has a solution) has been when tapping under power and I reverse the spindle to back the tap out, the chuck will usually open due to the inertia change on the chuck. Other then that, they are great

 

[Circlip]

It's got to be KEYED!

You've got to have the excuse for think time while you're looking round the workshop trying to remember where you last had it, and it gives you practice for dodging Swmbo's projectiles when you leave the key in the chuck and turn on : :big:
Regards Ian.

 

[CrewCab]

Ian has some good points there .......... but I'd vote for keyless imho I've used them for many years on drills etc and found them every bit as good as a keyed chuck, but just easier and quicker to use ........... BUT ..... as regards clearance and head travel on the X2, have you seen these ........... Click Here

I've fitted one on my X2 and it's great, about twice the travel, much easier to wind up and down and the head stays put, dam good value for £20 in my book .......... 3 holes to drill and tap, took me about an hour to fit, longest job is cleaning off the Chinese grease :

CC ........ aka Dave

 

[CrewCab]

drilling into stone I was constantly re-tightening, thumb-breakingly tight, as masonry bits are very prone to slip drilling hard stone

Giles, SDS is the best for stone / masonry etc

Dave

 

[bretk]

Dave,

Thanks on the air spring kit, - I ordered one after the last thread, was trying to decide on the R-8 spindle conversion and do it all at one sitting, I think LMS will be getting another large order from me : : : They ought to just donate to this list given the business we generate for them :big:

-Bret

 

[Hexbasher]

The last boss use to buy real nice Harvest brand keyless chucks

with hindsight in my favor, i just bought two Jacobs 1/32 to 1/2 super duty KEYED chucks.... 400 bucks well spent

i have more fecked up drill shanks due to keyless......

(coming from a manual jobber shop...currently at a highend cnc shop...and building my our moonlight shop)

 

[BobWarfield]

The last boss use to buy real nice Harvest brand keyless chucks

with hindsight in my favor, i just bought two Jacobs 1/32 to 1/2 super duty KEYED chucks.... 400 bucks well spent

i have more fecked up drill shanks due to keyless......

(coming from a manual jobber shop...currently at a highend cnc shop...and building my our moonlight shop)

And speaking of fecked up drill shanks...

I love my keyless chucks, but, where you get into trouble is large bits. Seems like they'll tighten the heck out of a keyless. You get done and go to remove the bit and I often must use a strap wrench to get the darned thing loose. Don't get me wrong, I like them a lot, but when I'm looking at bits over 1/2", I prefer a keyed chuck for this reason.

Second, if you do get a fecked up shank, there's usually a little chip that's been dragged up from the bit spinning. Part of this may be due to inexpensive bits--it used to happen to me a lot more often with my jobber length than my screw machine length btis. In any event, it is going to happen sooner or later. I find a Gesswein stone, 1/4" x 1/2" x about 4" in 220 grit is ideal to take that little chip off. I got a box of these off eBay for cheap one time and they are really handy for stuff like that.

Cheers,

BW

 

[gilessim]

Giles, SDS is the best for stone / masonry etc

You're absolutely right there Dave!, I do have one but it's quite big, works incredibly well though!

Giles