It has a really interesting valve design.
www.heetgasmodelbouw.ridders.nu/Webpaginas/pagina_happer_inw_schuif/inw_schuif_frameset.htm
www.heetgasmodelbouw.ridders.nu/Webpaginas/pagina_happer_inw_schuif/inw_schuif_frameset.htm
Interesting flame licker
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rake60
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I built that engine with an aluminum cylinder and could not get it to run.
Just yesterday I was able to get my hands on a cast iron bar end to try
it again using the correct material. So far all I have done is the
cylinder. It's still needs some cleaning up. This picture was fresh off
the mini-mill.
It will be some time before it's done.
Just yesterday I was able to get my hands on a cast iron bar end to try
it again using the correct material. So far all I have done is the
cylinder. It's still needs some cleaning up. This picture was fresh off
the mini-mill.
It will be some time before it's done.
rake60
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I cut the piston for a snug but movable fit to the cylinder, then coated the
cylinder bore with plain toothpaste to act as a lapping compound and
worked the piston through until it had a free sliding fit.
As I said this was my second attempt at this design.
When I was taking the original model apart I somehow damaged one of
the ball bearings. It's on hold until my next shopping spree to the hobby
shop...
I'm still trying to make a running version!
cylinder bore with plain toothpaste to act as a lapping compound and
worked the piston through until it had a free sliding fit.
As I said this was my second attempt at this design.
When I was taking the original model apart I somehow damaged one of
the ball bearings. It's on hold until my next shopping spree to the hobby
shop...
I'm still trying to make a running version!
Anybody tried a 2-cylinder flame licker, a-la Dos Pyros (http://www.stirlingsouth.com/richard/DosPyros.htm)? They say a lot of the low power, tough-starting issues are solved with that. I've toyed with the idea of making a horizontally-opposed 2-cyl version, but never got much beyond thinking about it.
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Hi Rick,
How did you drill the 2" long 2mm hole in the side, all my 2mm drills are exactly 2" long so nowhere to hold onto. I suppose I could silver solder an extension on and take it very gently.
I have been looking at this design for a while now but never having built one I was a bit dubious of starting it.
Then Shred put the link to Dos Pyros, et voila!, why not make a twin cylinder version to see if it would run better.
So did all the calcs last night, saw what bearings I've got in my stash. a quickie call to a friend who works nights to get a lump of something heavy for the flywheel. 7:30 this morning 3 lumps of bar end in what looks like stainless but 50% heavier were delivered, 2 pieces to learn how to machine it, the last to make the flywheel. Nice having friends in the aerospace industry. Just got to hack some cast iron out of sash weights and we are away. If it doesn't run, very little lost, salvage what I can and do something else, not the end of the world.
All I have to do is decide whether to have the cranks at 180deg or 90degs apart, any comments would be useful.
Will start it next week after finishing rebuilding my piston valve engine.
John
How did you drill the 2" long 2mm hole in the side, all my 2mm drills are exactly 2" long so nowhere to hold onto. I suppose I could silver solder an extension on and take it very gently.
I have been looking at this design for a while now but never having built one I was a bit dubious of starting it.
Then Shred put the link to Dos Pyros, et voila!, why not make a twin cylinder version to see if it would run better.
So did all the calcs last night, saw what bearings I've got in my stash. a quickie call to a friend who works nights to get a lump of something heavy for the flywheel. 7:30 this morning 3 lumps of bar end in what looks like stainless but 50% heavier were delivered, 2 pieces to learn how to machine it, the last to make the flywheel. Nice having friends in the aerospace industry. Just got to hack some cast iron out of sash weights and we are away. If it doesn't run, very little lost, salvage what I can and do something else, not the end of the world.
All I have to do is decide whether to have the cranks at 180deg or 90degs apart, any comments would be useful.
Will start it next week after finishing rebuilding my piston valve engine.
John
rake60
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I used a #47 bit. It's .0785" or 1.9939MM
I drilled as far as I could with the bit chucked properly then extended it
out to where I was just barely catching it in the chuck to finish the hole
through. It just made it through, but cast iron drills freely and the full
length of the hole is supporting the bit.
I drilled as far as I could with the bit chucked properly then extended it
out to where I was just barely catching it in the chuck to finish the hole
through. It just made it through, but cast iron drills freely and the full
length of the hole is supporting the bit.
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Many thanks Rick,
I will be drilling in the miller, I will see how I get on, but I think I will keep the silver solder on the horizon, just in case I bottle out.
The main problem being in the UK is that kids nowadays aren't taught the old imperial system, and metric is starting to get a strong foothold, so I have to work in three different types of drill sizes, fractional inches, numbers and letters plus metric, very confusing at times, so if I start to drift towards metric, let me know and I will try to moderate my Eurolanguage.
John
I will be drilling in the miller, I will see how I get on, but I think I will keep the silver solder on the horizon, just in case I bottle out.
The main problem being in the UK is that kids nowadays aren't taught the old imperial system, and metric is starting to get a strong foothold, so I have to work in three different types of drill sizes, fractional inches, numbers and letters plus metric, very confusing at times, so if I start to drift towards metric, let me know and I will try to moderate my Eurolanguage.
John
rake60
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My company works internationally.
I see German prints that the only thing I can understand are the numbers
(divided by 25.4) :wink: My model size taps and dies are all metric and
the local suppliers are stocking the metric hardware to support that.
My micrometers and calipers are still Imperial but I have a feeling that
my grandson's will be metric.
I see German prints that the only thing I can understand are the numbers
(divided by 25.4) :wink: My model size taps and dies are all metric and
the local suppliers are stocking the metric hardware to support that.
My micrometers and calipers are still Imperial but I have a feeling that
my grandson's will be metric.
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I am fine with metric or imperial, I use vernier calipers that read both directly.
5/16" (.3125) is just a butt-hair under 8 MM (.315) A few sizes are close enough for the gals we go out with. :wink:
5/16" (.3125) is just a butt-hair under 8 MM (.315) A few sizes are close enough for the gals we go out with. :wink:
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Rick,
Drills were too short, couldn't get thru the last 8mm piece, so ended up silver soldering 1" extension on, worked a treat, both cylinders drilled, just got the boring to do.
How is yours going on?
John
Drills were too short, couldn't get thru the last 8mm piece, so ended up silver soldering 1" extension on, worked a treat, both cylinders drilled, just got the boring to do.
How is yours going on?
John
B
Bogstandard
Guest
I know exactly how you feel, I still need a couple more engines to put on a display in about four weeks.
My problem in the past is that I have given all my engines away, so now I've got nothing to show.
So I am hoping this licker I am building will be working by midweek and then I think I will build a smallish turbine for something a bit different, no plans, but who cares, just build something and hope it works.
John
My problem in the past is that I have given all my engines away, so now I've got nothing to show.
So I am hoping this licker I am building will be working by midweek and then I think I will build a smallish turbine for something a bit different, no plans, but who cares, just build something and hope it works.
John
B
Bogstandard
Guest
I can see a couple of techie solutions coming on, not just for this engine but can be used elsewhere.
This engine calls for a couple of bits of 2mm rod to be silver soldered together at right angles. This is how I did it using a strip of plate and a couple of small magnets.
The joint already has a loop of solder wire draped on it, just a bit of flux and heat and the job was done.
Sorry about the quality of the pics, until I have had my tenth cup of coffee the world is a blur.
The next one is about how I produce an accurate cylinder bore, especially this one as I am making a matched pair. Up to 14mm I would just wack a machine reamer thru it and call it job done, but these had to be bored. On these I drilled a 16mm thru hole and finished off all other jobs on the cylinder, the boring is the last operation, just in case the other ops distort the material
Before I do anything I will make a go/no go gauge out of brass, turned to 0.001" undersize, then on the end 1/2" I will remove a further 0.004", this is the "go" part. Bore out until the "go" part just fits in the bore and the "no go" won't. This is the time for very fine boring and continual checking until the 'no go" just fits into the bore. Then swap them over in the chuck, turn the speed down to the slowest on your machine and use the gauge as a lap to true up the bore, I use my own home made diamond lapping paste on cast iron but the fine lapping paste used for grinding in engine valves will do (do not use diamond on soft bores such as brass and aluminium). Using this method both of these bores are within 0.0005" of each other and there is no detectable taper.
This is just to get the bores true and parallel, the pistons are machined to fit the bore and later lapped to the bore to get a perfect fit.
John
This engine calls for a couple of bits of 2mm rod to be silver soldered together at right angles. This is how I did it using a strip of plate and a couple of small magnets.
The joint already has a loop of solder wire draped on it, just a bit of flux and heat and the job was done.
Sorry about the quality of the pics, until I have had my tenth cup of coffee the world is a blur.
The next one is about how I produce an accurate cylinder bore, especially this one as I am making a matched pair. Up to 14mm I would just wack a machine reamer thru it and call it job done, but these had to be bored. On these I drilled a 16mm thru hole and finished off all other jobs on the cylinder, the boring is the last operation, just in case the other ops distort the material
Before I do anything I will make a go/no go gauge out of brass, turned to 0.001" undersize, then on the end 1/2" I will remove a further 0.004", this is the "go" part. Bore out until the "go" part just fits in the bore and the "no go" won't. This is the time for very fine boring and continual checking until the 'no go" just fits into the bore. Then swap them over in the chuck, turn the speed down to the slowest on your machine and use the gauge as a lap to true up the bore, I use my own home made diamond lapping paste on cast iron but the fine lapping paste used for grinding in engine valves will do (do not use diamond on soft bores such as brass and aluminium). Using this method both of these bores are within 0.0005" of each other and there is no detectable taper.
This is just to get the bores true and parallel, the pistons are machined to fit the bore and later lapped to the bore to get a perfect fit.
John
B
Bogstandard
Guest
I will just explain a comment that I made in my last post about not using diamond lapping paste in soft cylinders.
Diamond lapping paste is now becoming readily available and people are thinking it will solve all their lapping problems, nothing could be further from the truth. It is fine with hard cylinder bores and soft laps but not with soft bores like plastics, brass or aluminium.
Normal grinding paste actually breaks down into smaller pieces as it is being used and can usually be washed off the finished bores with no problem.
With diamond lapping paste the diamonds embed themselves into the lapping faces, if you look at the brass bar that I used you will see the small diamond bits embedded in the surface, but because the lap is softer than the bore it will only embed itself into the brass, so effectively turning the brass into a very accurate round diamond file. In fact I will start off by embedding the diamond into the soft lap by forcing the paste into the surface with a piece of hardwood. I will reuse this lapping bar again by just turning off the old diamond finish.
So basically the diamonds will embed themselves into the soft wall cylinders and continue to act as abrasives thru the life of the engine and will cause premature failure.
John
Diamond lapping paste is now becoming readily available and people are thinking it will solve all their lapping problems, nothing could be further from the truth. It is fine with hard cylinder bores and soft laps but not with soft bores like plastics, brass or aluminium.
Normal grinding paste actually breaks down into smaller pieces as it is being used and can usually be washed off the finished bores with no problem.
With diamond lapping paste the diamonds embed themselves into the lapping faces, if you look at the brass bar that I used you will see the small diamond bits embedded in the surface, but because the lap is softer than the bore it will only embed itself into the brass, so effectively turning the brass into a very accurate round diamond file. In fact I will start off by embedding the diamond into the soft lap by forcing the paste into the surface with a piece of hardwood. I will reuse this lapping bar again by just turning off the old diamond finish.
So basically the diamonds will embed themselves into the soft wall cylinders and continue to act as abrasives thru the life of the engine and will cause premature failure.
John
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Giles,
I have never seen it done or ever attempted anything like that, but rest assured grooves like that have been around since at least the mid 1800's, maybe a lot earlier, and I don't think they resorted to a CNC machine.
If it can be drawn, there is most probably a machinist artisan somewhere that can make it manually, and do it in his sleep.
Many years ago I was involved in the development of the first 3 1/2" linear reading hard drive, called 'The Penny', with a massive 47mb capacity. The chap who made all the parts for this is my good friend, and he is one of these people who can look at a problem and find a way to make it by hand. He comes in very handy when I hit a problem with my machining.
John
I have never seen it done or ever attempted anything like that, but rest assured grooves like that have been around since at least the mid 1800's, maybe a lot earlier, and I don't think they resorted to a CNC machine.
If it can be drawn, there is most probably a machinist artisan somewhere that can make it manually, and do it in his sleep.
Many years ago I was involved in the development of the first 3 1/2" linear reading hard drive, called 'The Penny', with a massive 47mb capacity. The chap who made all the parts for this is my good friend, and he is one of these people who can look at a problem and find a way to make it by hand. He comes in very handy when I hit a problem with my machining.
John
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