I'm thinking of buying these two machines. Opinions?

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Maine Ronin

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That's about $1300 for these two machines, not counting shipping. They are basically Seig machines, same ones that are sold by Harbor Freight/Grizzly but perhaps with a couple of minor refinements.

I bought my mini lathe from H.F. for $350 (on sale), Mill for $500, total $850, no shipping needed. That's a savings of ~$450. You can buy a lot of tooling for $450.

At $640 for the lathe I would spend just a little more and go for something a little better. I do not like the tailstock on my lathe, as it does not center correctly, others here have the same problem. Also, I find the 10" bed too short.

This one looks quite a bit better (to me). http://www.grizzly.com/products/9-x-19-Bench-Lathe/G4000
 
I have the 7X12” mini-lathe and X2 mini-mill sold by Cummings. Thy are basically the same lathe and mill.

It looks too me that the lathe and mill from LittleMachineShop may be much better then the ones I have.
1. Thy both have a more powerful motor.
2. The mill has a larger table (that’s about $100.00+ right there) and to convert a stander mini-mill from gear drive to belt drive is another $100.00+.
3. The cam lock on the tailstock of the lathe (you will want) would cost you another $30-40.

If you don’t have the room for lager machines, all and all I would have to say the price for what you are getting is not bad.

As far as LittleMachineShop goes I have a lot of things from them and thy stand behind what thy sell and thy will have most if not all parts in stock.

Good luck,

Richard
 
The machines LMS sells are the best of the Seigs.
The lathe is the 7x12 where HF is 7x10. That 2" is very useful, believe me.
The mill has the big tables, LMS exclusive I think
Both have bigger motors, variable speed.
You might also take a look at the included tooling.

And Chris Wood at LMS is good people. I'd pay a little more to him than I would pay to HF or any big box retailer.
 
Both excellent Sieg machines.

Be carefull in comparing these to the cheaper Harbour Freight / Grizzly machines which are NOT THE SAME. the discounted price relates to the original NON-SERVO motor versions.

LMS have taken care to ensure that both the mill and the lathe are to top specifications, with the added benefit that you will not have to put up with the red paint on the standard Sieg machines.

For my money I would buy the LMS machines and forget the "low cost" inferior alternatives.

have fun
Bernard
 
What about the Grizzly mill/drill machines?Howdy,
I admit that I don't know how to chime in on a forum, because I've never done it before..., so excuse me for being out of pace with the topic. That being said...

Maybe you could help me? I'm just about to buy a Grizzly mill/drill machine and wanted to know if you had an opinion about this brand. G0619. This will be my first machine. I've been using a drill press with mill bite and an "X / Y" vice.
I make small aluminum parts for special film / camera mounts. I will catch on as I go. But... I'm also going to get a list of attachments. Like a 4" rotary table and tailstock, 4" vice and about 10 more things. It all adds up to about $2,300. I'm dipping into my small life savings but I believe in this vision. Could you let me know if this sounds about right?

Casey9026
 
I really like the LMS version of the SX2 mill. Besides the bigger motor and larger table, it already has a belt drive. Most everyone ends up replacing the plastic gear drive in the X2 mills with a belt drive anyway, and the cost of that conversion alone pretty much eats up the difference in price between the X2 and the SX2 All the reviews I've read say that the bigger motor is a treat, and the extra X and Y travel would be very nice to have. I almost bought one, but decided to go for something just a little bigger, and ordered a Grizzly G0704 (which, of course, turned out to be on a 2 month backorder).
 
Someone mentioned there's a coupon in Home Shop Machinist magazine (or something like that) for Harbor Freight's mini lathe at $350. Harbor Freight also backs up their products with good customer service.

I've never run out of power on the mill nor the lathe. Haven't even come close. The thought of a bigger motor has never occurred to me.

I've never used the full length of the mill table I have, in fact the length is further restricted by my DRO and I still don't need the full length. Wait until you start milling something 12" long to see how fast your arm gets tired of the cranking.

All the machines have variable speed.

The camlock on the tailstock doesn't keep the tailstock from sucking. You can't adjust it up or down and the side-to-side adjustment is poor at best. The tailstock doesn't always seat on the ways the same. Don't like the way the tailstock is lining up with your chuck? No sweat, take your hand and twist it. Yeah, that's right, no matter how tight you tightened the camlock/bolt/side-to-side screw, it still moves with your hand. Search this forum for details on tailstock alignment problems with the mini lathe, if you've a mind to.

You can make your own belt drive parts for the mill, people here have done it.

Nothing against LMS (except their shipping and handling charges), but if you don't have a lot of money, it is a diminishing return on your investment. If you do have money, well, the economy needs you to spend it, so go for it ;)
 
Hi,

I can not tell you specific opinions on these two machines I don't think they are sold in europe but I use a 'chinese' brand mill in my workshop and I can say that aftersale support really matters. If you have a good feeling about the support behaviour of the people selling the stuff it's sure worth a couple of bucks. If you want to use the machines in an apartment it is also a good idea to look for belt drives, geared machines are usually quite load. I have used a proxxon mill and lathe for quite a while and was very happy with those ...

cheers
christoph
 
I have virtually the exact same mill - see pics.

Mine has an optional back-geared headstock - which obviously provides more torque for larger cutters. I would not like to be without that feature.

Mine originally came will rubber bellows slide covers which perished in no time and were discarded. They were never very effective in any case.

The quill has virtually no accuracy on depth (the dial is uselessly coarse ±0.5mm/div.) but you can work quite well using a vernier attached - see photos.

I have also added a micrometer depth stop which clamps to the upright and permits fine adjustment of the downward position. (ACAD Drawing attached next post) - obviously when trying to feed to depth using a slot drill you need a positive stop as all the finesse in the world doesn't help if it snatches.

As my old teacher used to say - "You can't put the machine in reverse and put the material back on."

I work X & Y off the dials and in spite of the rolled thread screws seem quite accuate.

The machine has so far not given me any trouble (other than the perished bellows).

The exposed vertical rack needs to be kept clean and I have twice had to strip it because of "cogging" from swarf getting into the rack & pinnion.

If you use the inclined column for angles you have to retram the head with a dial gauge - you can't rely on the scales.

Other than that I really like the machine.

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I have the older (10 years old) Seig machines . The new improved ones have addressed some or most of the shortcoming of the older ones. you can buy cheap and upgrade or pay a bit extra upfront and get one already upgraded at the factory. I cant count the times I have stalled the mill the bigger better motor should be a good addition.
Tin
 

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