Duplex Vacuum, (Heinrici type stirling)

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Deanofid said:
Thanks to anyone who actually read all of it. Thanks to anyone who looked at the pictures. If you did both,

Darn right I'm doing both...and more than once. I'm not about to miss any good tidbits and there's always some to find in your posts. Thanks Dean.

I went to three pharmacies a couple of days ago looking for citric acid powder. They say it comes in granules and I'd have to order it. Not a problem...but I'm wondering if anyone finds it at a national store (U.S.)
 
Deanofid said:
Mike, what do you have planned for your torch?

I have a brass cased clock conversion project in mind. Your dissertation on soldering has been a huge help. Of course the little torch will come in handy for other jobs with little engines too!
 
zeeprogrammer said:
Darn right I'm doing both...and more than once. I'm not about to miss any good tidbits and there's always some to find in your posts. Thanks Dean.

I went to three pharmacies a couple of days ago looking for citric acid powder. They say it comes in granules and I'd have to order it. Not a problem...but I'm wondering if anyone finds it at a national store (U.S.)
I got a few lbs at a nearby homebrewer supply place for not many $. I've not found sufficient quantity in major stores for it to be worthwhile.
 
Joe.. :big: Thanks one more time!

Shred and Mike, your comments are appreciated.
Mike, hope you'll show us what you make for your clock conversion! (Clocks are "engines", too.)

Zee, thank you. If you have a health food store near by, they should most surly have it.
I live in near a very small town. Most everything but the banks is 'Mom 'n Pop'. Our pharm has it,
and so does the health food store. I guess it actually is 'granules'. Looks like super-super fine sugar.
Sorry for the terminology mixup.

Marv, thanks for the links. The common names list is truly useful!

Our little pharmacy has alum, too! I guess I just have it good here, everything in one place.

Dean

Oh, hey, after looking down the list that Marv provided in the link, it says 'Fruit Fresh' next to ascorbic acid. That stuff is available in the canning section of the grocery store.
 
Dean,
Thanks for the write up on hard soldering. I've done it, but by no means am I an expert. It's always great to get another perspective on how to do things.

So, this thing should be running soon, eh? (sorry, couldn't resist ;D)
 
Dean,
Not to detour (too far anyway)...i know you are going to use Jerry H's burner with this engine. I have had the plans for ages and would at some point like to build it for use with several sterling or atmospheric engines. Did you use Jerry's plans for the regulator or something else. The burner itself doesn't bother me, but i suppose the regulator part of it has kind of put me off from making it.

Just curious as to what you did.

Bill
 
Dean, thanks (twice!) for the excellent write-up.

I find citric acid in the grocery shop; in the section dedicated to ingredients for baking cakes & bread. Usually right next to the tartaric acid (Sherbet anyone ?) ;D

Regards, Arnold
 



Kevin, Bill, Arnold, thanks again for your encouragements and comments!

ksouers said:
So, this thing should be running soon, eh? (sorry, couldn't resist ;D)

Kevin, patience, patience. You have a very short time to wait! :)

Bill, one more post, and I'll have a short line about that burner. I'll have another post up
this evening, sometime after this one. More patience!

Arnold, thanks again for your steady support!





Back to the flywheels for a bit, now that the brazing and soldering is all done.
The flywheels I got from PM Research are very nice, but they are not quite large enough in diameter. They
will make up the center and spokes, but they need a steel 'tire', or rim, around their OD. First, to make
them bigger, and second, to add a bit to their weight at the circumference.




158.jpg


I went to one of the local welding shops to pick up some suitable tubing to turn down to the proper size.
They let me dig around a bit for what I want. I know some of the guys, and the owner, since I used to work
with them. When I found what I wanted, I had a couple of pieces cut off in ½" slices. I found some DOM*
tubing that was just right on the ID, leaving me a few thou for cleanup.

Onto the lathe, faced off one end to clean up the saw cut, and bored it 'til it was still slightly smaller
than the flywheels.
I ran the boring bar to within about .020" of the chuck jaws before starting the cutting, and set my depth
stop so I wouldn't run into the jaws of the chuck.

*DOM is sometimes called machinists tubing. The letters mean 'drawn over mandrel'. It machines fairly well,
and is usually very close to the nominal size for OD and ID.






159.jpg


When the inside was done on the two pieces the outside jaws on the chuck were changed to the regular ones
and the pieces were faced off to length. Next the OD was turned down. The OD was 4", and needed to be
brought down to 3.75". I had to remove the chip guard from the cross slide lead screw so the piece wouldn't
foul against it, so stuffed some tissue in there. HSS works well on this stuff.

These two simple pieces took me three hours to turn up. I've mentioned before about being a slow worker.
The machine is only so big, and it takes as long as it takes. And, I couldn't see the cross slide dial
with the slide cranked all the way back to do these pieces, so did a lot of measuring. And, I only bought
two pieces. If I goofed and had to drive out to the welding shop to buy more, it would take more time,
and the guys would all know that I'd bodged up a job. Incentive to take my time and not screw up.
That's my story.





160.jpg


With those done, I need to turn a bit off the flywheels so they'll fit the rims.






161.jpg


First, make up a quick arbor to hold the flywheels.






162.jpg


The short part on the back of the arbor was turned down to clear this drive pin.






163.jpg


Then, button up everything tight, and skim the OD of the two flywheels until they fit into the
two rims. Then they are put on the surface plate using shims to get the flywheels centered in
the rims, and some blue Loctite used to hold them fast.






164.jpg


Time for an assembly shot. Still a surprising amount of work to go, but it's getting there!

Thanks for looking. I'll have another post this evening.

Dean
 
Looking really nice Dean thanks for sharing your fantastic work.

Nick
 
Dean that is really looking nice :bow: Nice job on the flywheels!
You sure take some nice pictures.

B-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l !!
 
Ahhhhhhh. Your post is like taking a dunk in the pool after a hot day.

Thanks Dean. I needed that.

I really like those flywheels and it's really starting to come together isn't it?
 
Dean,
"DOM" tubing...I've already learned something new this week and it's only Monday! Your engine is coming along nicely.
Dennis
 
Dean didn't mention it so I will. DOM tubing has the further advantage that there is no weld seam on the interior surface. It's a nice clean bore - important if you want to slide something into it and don't want the hassle of removing the obstruction, which can be difficult if the piece is too long to bore.
 
Nick, Doc, Zee, and Dennis, again and again, thanks!

Marv, that's a good point. I've used so much DOM, I forget to mention the details I'm familiar with.
It's also telescoping in many of the available sizes. There is a wide range of wall
thicknesses for each OD, and most have an available wall that will fit nice and close to a corresponding
OD of the next size down.

For instance, 2" OD comes in wall thicknesses that will take DOM in smaller sizes, like 1", 1¼", 1½", 1¾"
and so on, (and in-between increments, too). It's quite strong, too. Has a fairly high yield strength
compared to many other common steels.



Okay, I know some people want to see it run.



165.jpg


Just using the valve on the propane bottle to get this flame adjusted as you see here. Simply
haven't got around to making a regulator for it, yet. I took the burner head off the propane torch
and use a piece of hose coupled to a reducer to bring it down to the size of the blue silicon tubing
that is attached to the small burner. Then crack the valve on the propane torch to let a little
fuel flow, and open up the valve on the small burner. I just watched it a few minutes, slightly
adjusting the propane torch valve until I got the size flame I wanted on the burner.

That will work for now, but I do need to make a regulator so I can use the small burner without
all that messing about to get the flame right.

After setting the engine over the little burner, I let it set for about 30 seconds and give the wheels
a sharp turn.
Fhttt, Fhttt, Fhttt, for a few seconds. Let it set another 30 seconds or so and gave it another quick turn.










There it goes.




[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlfmhmaVuNQ[/ame]




And another one after I finally remembered to set the stupid white balance on my ancient camera!
Hope it's a little better.




[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK8ZgGl3Y3s[/ame]


You can hear it start to slow down a bit toward the end of the vid. Trying to run the camera and
keep a firm grip on the engine, I was moving the engine around a little, which was moving it around
on the flame of the burner. It wants that flame right up the center, and when it's not, the speed
varies.

It ran on for another two minutes after I stopped the video. I timed it. Then the fins on the power
cylinder started getting too hot to maintain a good temperature difference between the top and bottom
of the engine and it slowly lost rpm until it stopped. I think I'll be building a small fan for it
and run it off the long crankshaft end using a pulley I still need to make.

Seems awfully loud. Part of that is because it's not bolted down. I still have to make the feet, and
other pretty things for it. Part of the noise may be coming from one of the bearings,too. Not quite snug
enough in it's bore, and I need to Loctite it in. I'm hoping for something quieter, but never having
seen this exact engine run before, I'm not sure what to expect.
Note: On a third run today, I put it on a mouse pad. What a difference! Much quieter, and I feel
better about it.

I'm thinking of painting the burner/base black. With brass feet and brass burner door, along with some gold
striping accents, it should look decent. Then, red for the centers of the flywheels, and polished up
rims to set it off. And some kind of base with rubber feet!



Thanks for checking it out.

Dean
 
Wow Dean that baby really humms along you have done a super job :bow: :bow:
I love it if I get my current build done I may have to try and follow in you foot prints!
She is a beauty very very nice work Dean !
Congrats on a wonderful build Dean!
 
Wow, Congratulations Dean :bow: :bow:.

I was like a kid opening a present when I clicked on the video. Very excited I am

It runs very fast, must have some gusto as well Eh. ;) Should have no problem running a fan.

I think it will look allot better than decent, that is one slick little engine. Worthy of the best finishing treatments.

Extremely well done Thm: Thm:

Excitedly yours,
Kel
 
Deanofid said:
And some kind of base with rubber feet!

Dean: WOOD! That brown stuff! :big: :big: :big:

Joe

PS Looks & sounds good already
 
It looks and sounds great to me Dean. Wonderful stuff.
Congratulations too.
It's going to look like a real stunner if you do everything you say you're going to do.
 
WOO HOO!!!

That's a runner! Congratulations!

That thing just rips right along, doesn't it!

 

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