Building Hit or Miss Claire Engine
- Thread starter Jack B
- Start date
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Hi friends: My computer has been in the repair shop since last week so I am behind on posting. I kept machining so I will have many pictures to catch up on. Jack B
The Cylinder Head is made from scrap aluminum stock milled square in my Index Vertical miller.
The Cylinder Head is made from scrap aluminum stock milled square in my Index Vertical miller.
Using my Starrett edge finder to pick up datum point for holes. It will be the upper right hand corner.
After hole is center drilled the tap drill is pushed right through. This is for the Metric spark plug CM-6.
These end mills will be used to open the hole to receive the cylinder. Largest diameter is 7/8 of an inch. The two smaller holes shown are for mounting the unit to the Spacer Block.
After hole is center drilled the tap drill is pushed right through. This is for the Metric spark plug CM-6.
These end mills will be used to open the hole to receive the cylinder. Largest diameter is 7/8 of an inch. The two smaller holes shown are for mounting the unit to the Spacer Block.
This homemade tool will guide the sparkplug tap straight.
Tapping sparkplug hole.
Four holes must be put in to hold the Cylinder to the Cylinder Head. They are on a 1.188 bolt circle. My Index vertical miller has conventional dials. No DRO. So I will dial the coordinates from my center that is already established. A little Trig and my dimensions are .420 X & Y directions.
Tapping sparkplug hole.
Four holes must be put in to hold the Cylinder to the Cylinder Head. They are on a 1.188 bolt circle. My Index vertical miller has conventional dials. No DRO. So I will dial the coordinates from my center that is already established. A little Trig and my dimensions are .420 X & Y directions.
The four holes are clearance for 8-32 screws.
The Cylinder is bolted to the Cylinder head with a brass bolt and a rusty nut This is being done in my old Buffalo Drill Press. The work is in a well used cam lock vise.
Machining radius on the Cylinder Head. I whittle the circle with a endmill by taking a series of cuts.
The Cylinder is bolted to the Cylinder head with a brass bolt and a rusty nut This is being done in my old Buffalo Drill Press. The work is in a well used cam lock vise.
Machining radius on the Cylinder Head. I whittle the circle with a endmill by taking a series of cuts.
I made a special split tool to keep the center pressure from distorting the shape of the Crankshaft.
Special tool inserted when cutting diameters.
All parts of engine assembled as of now. I got tired of looking at the red dye so I removed it. The engine is much heavier than I though it would be.
Special tool inserted when cutting diameters.
All parts of engine assembled as of now. I got tired of looking at the red dye so I removed it. The engine is much heavier than I though it would be.
Hy Kel
It was my intention to rough down the outside diameters in the miller. But I wanted to see how my special tool would work in the lathe. I took light cuts at first and kept increasing to about .040 per cut. My RPMs were between 500 and 600. It cut nicely and I just lessened the depth of cut for two finishing cuts. Jack B
It was my intention to rough down the outside diameters in the miller. But I wanted to see how my special tool would work in the lathe. I took light cuts at first and kept increasing to about .040 per cut. My RPMs were between 500 and 600. It cut nicely and I just lessened the depth of cut for two finishing cuts. Jack B
Philip Duclos the engine's designer suggested a 1961 to 1972 Chrysler ignition point set. I have had 1928 to 1930 Model A Fords for the past forty years. So I have extra distributor and ignition parts for the Model A Ford. Therefore I am going to try to adapt a set of Model A points to my engine. At first glance they look like they will be OK with a few modifications.
The cam diameter had to be made larger then the print called for. The cam on the left is original Model A. The center one is the print size and the one on the right is the new size.
I made a special backing shim for the Model A point plate. I am using the mounting holes the print called for.
The cam diameter had to be made larger then the print called for. The cam on the left is original Model A. The center one is the print size and the one on the right is the new size.
I made a special backing shim for the Model A point plate. I am using the mounting holes the print called for.
I drilled a hole in the Model A plate to match the mounting set screw. All is looking good so far.
Using my scriber on the surface gageto pick up the second mounting hole.
Transferring the mounting hole location to the Model A plate. I made a round piece of stock to fit the center hole of the plate and the crankshaft diameter. This is centering the plate with the crankshaft. I will cutoff the long arm on the plate when I am satisfied the plate will fit on the Engine Upright okay.
Using my scriber on the surface gageto pick up the second mounting hole.
Transferring the mounting hole location to the Model A plate. I made a round piece of stock to fit the center hole of the plate and the crankshaft diameter. This is centering the plate with the crankshaft. I will cutoff the long arm on the plate when I am satisfied the plate will fit on the Engine Upright okay.
Drilling on the miller. These are extended jaws with built in parallels on the Bridgeport Vise.
I am about to mill a slot right through the plate and the backing shim. This will be for adjustment when they are mounted.
I made the decision that the arm had to go. I am milling it off while the plate is in the vise.
I am about to mill a slot right through the plate and the backing shim. This will be for adjustment when they are mounted.
I made the decision that the arm had to go. I am milling it off while the plate is in the vise.
I took the plate all apart including the Phenolic insulation. I then re-assembled all the parts on the back of the plate and re-attached it to the Engine Upright.
This is how the point set looks now for clockwise turning of the cam.
The cam on the crankshaft contacts the cam on the riser block of the points correctly. Everything is smooth running as the crankshaft turns.
This is how the point set looks now for clockwise turning of the cam.
The cam on the crankshaft contacts the cam on the riser block of the points correctly. Everything is smooth running as the crankshaft turns.
