The Drill Doctor

[rake60]

If I have to drill a deep or critical hole, the bit gets a run through the
Drill Doctor before it goes in the collet or chuck every time.
I think you'll find you use it a lot Mel.

I remember the day I bought mine. 2 hours in the shop, sharpening every
bit I could find, and then looking for more! LOL
Guess that's what happens when you give an old kid a new toy... :roll:

Rick

 

[georgeseal]

I have one of the first one's that came out.
Every time I sharpen a bit I test it before I put every thing away.
Last night was tapping some 6-32 holes and bit got dull so I broke out the Dr.. Took three tries to get bit to cut but then it went in like butter

Over on the other site everyone hollers don't buy a Drill Dr. buy a Darex. :evil:

Guess what mine is made by Darex model DD750SP :shock:


George

 

[Lew Hartswick]

yea, George, I have one that I got when the engineer from Darex offered
several free to folks that would give him a reason for needing one back
when they were just released. I guess it must have been 12 yrs or so ago.
He posted on, I think, Rec.Crafts.metalworking. It is a 750 also. Works
for me like a champ. And I can't complain about the price. I don't know
what all the complaining was about on several news groups and BBs. I
think some folks just don't have the required "nack" of setting the bit to
align with the spring jaws or don't control the twisting / turning motion
correctly. Now there is one problem. If the flutes are either extra fast
or slow spiral the indexing dosent set the bit right .
...lew...

 

[wareagle]

The Darex units look very nice. What are those things going for?

Btw, I'm in Austin.

shred, I am in Fort Worth. Haven't located anyone up here doing this sort of stuff,yet. I am sure there is, though.

 

[Mcgyver]

Couple of questions for the DD users....

In grinding a spit point, you're grinding a corner , ie two intersecting planes, vs other points where you are grinding in one plane. Doesn't this require using the corner of a wheel and it so how does it stand up over over time (without dressing)?

along the same lines, anyone know what types of wheels & dressings are used in commercial split point grinding? unless there's a special wheel, I wonder you they keep the corner sharp without constant dressing?

Secondly, I've always been told do not use diamond on anything ferrous other than say at hand lapping speeds to so as to prevent carbon absorption. Yet the DD says it uses a diamond wheel?? I guess they mustn't wear out quickly or you guys wouldn't be happy, but it seems contrary to accepted diamond cutting tool use - anyone have any insight on this?

 

[georgeseal]

Mc,

The wheel is diamond on metal wheel. $19.00 new I have three that I have bought at discount . Had mine about 8 years and still on orginal wheel. Wheel can be rotated 180 degrees to give you life of two wheels. I am now on the second part of the wheel.

Older versions had alignment problems but I think they have been addressed as of late.
After sharpening I always test drill to see if bit will cut ( test hole may be the one you want to keep :lol:

George

 

[lugnut]

My new DD -750X just came in the mail. I've watched the CD instruction movie and now I will take it out to the shop and give it a test drive. Will let you know what I think about it later
Wish me luck
:roll: Mel

 

[wareagle]

One thing that I have noticed with mine is that cleanliness makes a huge difference. It the chuck has grit in it, or the other surfaces have some in the corners, it really seems to affect the quality of the bit. I have found that blowing it off with compressed air (20-25lbs) is enough to keep that bits coming out perfect.

I don't think I will give mine up! It has earned its place in my shop.

 

[macona]

I have one of the old 750 models. Works OK. Not great, OK.

In 135 degree mode it cuts way to flat. Clearance is not great and the edge of the wheel does not have a sharp enough edge to split points correctly.

I also have a Lisle (Pronounce Lyle). Works well bt takes a while to set up for each bit.

http://www.lislecorp.com/grinder_index.cfm

 

[dgjessing]

Sorry for reviving such an old thread, but I just received my DD 500X today and I gotta say I'm quite impressed with it so far. Went through my badly damaged 29 piece HF set and those I sampled cut like new - better than new in some cases, as the HF bits are not exactly top shelf...

There is definitely a "feel" that must be developed to operate the thing correctly, but with a little practice it does a fine job. Got it from these guys for slightly less than $100 US: http://myworld.ebay.com/greatbrandmerchandisesquaredeal

 

[dreeves]

I have the 750X and love it. It took a tumble off the bench and the steel adjustment bolt broke. I called Drill Doctor and explained that the problem was with the operator not the machine. They put a new knob in the mail and got it 2 days later all for just a 5 min toll free call. I also love that a person answers the phone with just a few prompts.

Dave

 

[lathe nut]

I was glad to see a post about the drill doctor, I got the 750 and some extra stones, worked great till I tried to remove the stone and this photo show what happen,(the motor shaft comes up and cannot remove the stone) so I am a little troubled I want to buy made in America so I called them they were very nice and sent me another one, so the returned crossed the new on one in the mail got the second one and the same thing, now I feel like I might call them and see what difference I could give them to get a good one, I did love it shame on my for not calling when the one came out, hope it works out will post the results, Lathe Nut

 

[MachineTom]

I've had the DD500 for 10 years +, many bits have been sharpened, strolling though HD one day I found the they were selling the 3/4 chucks for $10. After purchasing the chuck I gave it a try, and although it works the small size of the motor and wheel, takes forever to clean up a burned bit. I have an industrial grinder now, but use the DD for everything under 3/8".

I used to hand grind my big bits, and thought I did good, but compared to the way my Mohawk sharpen's a bit, there is no comparison, the industrial machine is so much better. Recently I've been selling used taper shank drills, most have been hand sharpened, it is easy to tell from the sound of the grinder how unequal the points on the hand sharpened drills are.

 

[Allthumbz]

Great information regarding the DD- sounds that the consensus is that the 750 is the model to buy- they had a sale on them at Enco not too long ago.

Seems that there is also a slight learning curve, but nothing extraordinary. How long would it take a newbie to turn out decently sharpened drills on this?

Nelson

 

[Tin Falcon]

I may hamentioned before I have an older 500. the difference between the 500 and 750 is the second larger collet.
Tin

 

[prof65]

Another happy owner of the 750x here.

Nelson, don't worry, just read and follow the manual carefully and you'll have a good sharpened bit at the first attempt.

Roberto

 

[ref1ection]

I have to agree with the majority, the 750 is a great sharpener. The only bad bits I've had were when I was careless setting them up. By the way the one I bought has one collet that be used all the way up to 3/4".

Ray

 

[ironman]

Where I live, Home Depot online has the 500X for under 90 bucks and Lowes has in store the "XP" for 100 bucks.

Anyone know anything about the XP model? Sounds similar to the 500.

Thanks,

Ray (ironman)

 

[Gordon]

I just ordered a 750 for $124 on eBay. I have been using a Black and Decker #4300 for years and I have had good luck with it. Yesterday I was careless and ground off the drill locator and found that the unit is obsolete and that part is not available so I started looking at the DD. There is a guy who sells an aftermarket locator for $17 + $4.50 shipping but that seems rather expensive. I hope that the DD works as well as the B&D.

 

[rhankey]

This thread inspired me to buy a DD 750X too for the same $124 price on eBay, which also included a bonus of a handful of small spare drill bits that will come in handy replacing a couple that I have broken. I am still new to metal working and am still working with minimal tooling, but I'm making a lot of parts out of SS which seems to be wearing bits out quickly. I have had to be increasingly careful feeding some of the bits into holes as more and more bits are feeling and sounding like they are on the verge of breaking and are not producing very good shavings. Breaking a bit is the last thing I want after investing countless hours on a making the part. So, in a few days I plan on an extended drill bit sharpening session.