Swifty's build of Howell V4

[Swifty]

Finished off by making the brass plug for the bleeder hole. Its 2 pieces, I made the head part and drilled and tapped a hole in it, then threaded a piece of brass for the screw section, the two parts were assembled with loctite. A short part of the threaded section was left protruding from the top of the screw so I could gently pein it to make sure that it wouldn't come out, this also has the benefit of making sure that there are no gaps to be seen between the thread and the body. Making these small parts 2 piece allows the thread to go all the way to the end, something that is impossible to do with a die.



Paul.

 

[bmac2]

Hi Paul. I’m really enjoying this build and thank you for going to such a level of detail in your posts. It’s builds like this where I learn new tips and techniques. It’s amazing the amount of work that goes into a part like your oil galley.

And I don't think it looked like a Scottie dog . . . . . . . much . . . . . never mind. ;D

Excellent engine and build

 

[Swifty]

Good one Bob, all that part was missing was the tail.

Paul.

 

[Swifty]

Carrying on from where I left off in post 292 where I squashed the water pump body, I now have a new body soldered together. So, the next step was to hold it in the 4 Jaw chuck without squashing the new part, I turned up a holder out of aluminium with a couple of screws on the side to hold the part. The bore is offset .064" which translates to a total indicator reading of .128"when offset in the chuck.


This made turning the part easy, it was later counter bored and screw cut.


The cap that screws on to the body is made out of delrin, however that didn't go too well when it decided to break. What to do next? I thought as long as the material is non magnetic, some thing else will be ok, so I used some brass. It has to be non magnetic to allow the magnetic drive to work on the impeller.


Next step was to glue the magnets into the impeller and pulley, I used another piece of 1/8" dia carbide for the pivot on the impeller.



I soldered the inlet onto the back of the main body, then set it up in the mill at the correct angle and machined the outlet hole in the side. I decided to align the outlet in the hole with a piece of 1/4" dia carbide, reasoning that the solder wont stick to the shank. I made sure that the solder was flowing between the parts before holding it down while it cooled.


Here is the main body with the circular insert fitted inside, it's loctited in as well as held with a pin from the back, there's also an assembled picture.



All that's left now is to make a clamping bracket that screws on the back, as well as clean it all up a bit.

Paul.

 

[gus]

Your pump looks great but wickedly small and tough to make . Should pump water.

( Bad Day. Only three fish)

 

[jimjam66]

Fantastic work, Paul! Not long now and it should be roaring.

 

[Swifty]

Thanks Gus and David, I might hook up the battery drill and some tubing to see if the pump actually works.

Paul.

 

[Gerhardvienna]

Hi Paul
Great job so far!
I`m just waiting for my materials to start the real work, can only use spare aluminium at the time...........
Regards
Gerhard

 

[Swifty]

Not a lot of progress the last few days, other things seem to interfere too much, although I did make a nylon gear for a friend, it fits in a commercial coffee machine. Instead of making a hob, I made a single point tool that worked great, 20 deg sides, main cut on centre line and by dropping and raising the cutter by the correct pitch, I was able to do the cuts that a hob would have done. The biggest problem was the 4 mm square hole in the centre, I made a rough broach which sort of worked, will do a trial fit today.

Paul.

 

[bmac2]

Good stuff Paul. Gear cutting is one of the daemons I am soon going to have to tackle.

 

[Swifty]

Good stuff Paul. Gear cutting is one of the daemons I am soon going to have to tackle.

There is no mystery about spur gears Bob, once you have sorted out the method it's all straight forward. There will be plenty of advice given when the time comes to cut one.

Paul.

 

[Gerhardvienna]

Hi Paul
That is what I`m waiting for too! I`ve seen so many different ways to do it, until now I buy gears at the Mädler Webshop, but not sure if they deliver in the USA! http://www.maedler.de/
Regards
Gerhard

 

[Swifty]

Hi Gerhard, post 95 onwards will show you how I made my gear hob, although you can buy a gear cutter. I use a dividing head for indexing the blanks when gear cutting, but there are other methods to do this.

Paul.

 

[Gerhardvienna]

Hi Paul
Just learned something again, THANK YOU!
Saved a copy for later use, even this will help.........
Regards
Gerhard

 

[Swifty]

I decided to start on the engine mounting rails, I fly cut the material to size and marked out with the height gauge. I held the two together in the vice, and after picking up the edges, roughed them out with a 6mm cutter, I finished off the pockets with a 5mm cutter and used the digital readout to get the correct positions, I had previously worked out the cutter positions allowing for the radius of the cutter. I drilled some mounting holes and now only have to tap them.




Paul.

 

[Swifty]

While I was in the milling mode, I decided to machine the radiator supports as well, After a bit of juggling the pieces in the vice I ended up with 2 very light supports, still have to drill a couple of holes in each part to finish them.



Paul.

 

[Swifty]

As a little side job, I thought that I might give my 3 jaw chuck a slight bit of clearance on the back plate in order to allow me to tap it to get a job running perfectly true. At the moment there is about .002" runout, not that much, but a pain at times. I undid the 6 screws holding the cam lock back plate on, then used two of the screws in the jacking holes supplied. After much grunting and tapping with a soft hammer, the backplate refused to budge, so I mounted the chuck on the spindle again, minus the 6 screws, and tried to knock it loose with a soft hammer, still no luck. They must have mounted the backing plate with a 50 ton press, it's stuck on and going to stay there, I tried the chuck in three different positions until I found the one with the least amount of runout, .001" reading on the indicator will have to be good enough, I marked the position on the spindle and chuck for next time. It was worth the effort, as before, I never bothered to check which holes on the cam lock gave the best runout.

Paul.

 

[gus]

Hi Paul
That is what I`m waiting for too! I`ve seen so many different ways to do it, until now I buy gears at the Mädler Webshop, but not sure if they deliver in the USA! http://www.maedler.de/
Regards
Gerhard

Hi Gerhard,

Welcome to the Gear Cutting Club. To my knowledge there is a dozen of us.
We have good collection of gears with 1/2 tooth which is part of learning curve.
Ivan Law's Book on Gear Cutting and Harold Hall's book on DIY Dividing Head. Timing Gears for Webster and Brian Rupnow's Hit and Miss engine were all DIY cut. DIY Dividing Head etc to cut these gears. Also cut DIY Mitre Gears too. No worry . There will be lotsa expert advice. Paul Swifty is very good gear cutter.

 

[michael-au]

Nice work on the rails Paul

Michael

 

[Gerhardvienna]

Hi Paul
Rails are looking fine, I like that (c)lean look! Will they be painted?

Hi Gus
As I wrote above, I`ve seen a many of different ways to cut the gears, Paul`s method seems to be simple and effective. Think I`ll try this as an exercise!
Nothing is worth more than practice!
Regards
Gerhard