Snow Tandem Engine
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Dean: You're welcome!
Garry: The steady ring is 3.5" OD based on the scientific calculation of that's the dia of the scrap pipe that I had a piece of in my junk box... in this case, it was apparently some gas pipe, it was miserable to cut a chunk off with the Mk 1 hand-operated hacksaw. You could go up to 4" OD with a little room left for fastening over the bed of the lathe. Whatever floats the boat!
Joe
Garry: The steady ring is 3.5" OD based on the scientific calculation of that's the dia of the scrap pipe that I had a piece of in my junk box... in this case, it was apparently some gas pipe, it was miserable to cut a chunk off with the Mk 1 hand-operated hacksaw. You could go up to 4" OD with a little room left for fastening over the bed of the lathe. Whatever floats the boat!
Joe
Hi all
Next bit done already (I love statutory holidays...
)
This is the piece that joins the two cylinder assemblies together. The turning was all done with the same set-ups as the front guard,once that was done bolted the whole thing together and then bolted it down on the mill to cut the openings in the sides
and this is what it looks like in place
Didn't have a really long M&M, so I put in a ruler for scale (sorry, Zee)
Cheers, Joe
Next bit done already (I love statutory holidays...
)This is the piece that joins the two cylinder assemblies together. The turning was all done with the same set-ups as the front guard,once that was done bolted the whole thing together and then bolted it down on the mill to cut the openings in the sides
and this is what it looks like in place
Didn't have a really long M&M, so I put in a ruler for scale (sorry, Zee)
Cheers, Joe
zeeprogrammer
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Very nice Joe.
I had to take another tour through the thread.
I had to take another tour through the thread.
zeeprogrammer
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Rof} Rof}
That was good.
Leaves the question as to who 'Mom' is.
That was good.
Leaves the question as to who 'Mom' is.
Hi again
Northern neighbour here, carrying on as ordered.... (incidentally Zee, I'm not sure that I want to know if that was a philosophical question or what... )
George; thanks for that.
Got the crosshead done, the last of the big turning operations. Still the same set-ups as the previous two bits, except that it's finished with a taper.
Turned and bored the flange, turned it around in the chuck and turned the major dia of the taper for it's length and the minor dia for the rest. Bored that end out to near final size at the same time I had just removed the steady when I took this photo.
set up the compound and turned the taper. If you look closely, you will see a 5 gal pail of swarf in the background... filled that twice doing these three parts!
Then turned it around again in the chuck, cut the internal taper, set it up in the mill (same as before) to cut the side cut-outs,
and here it is!
Things will slow down back to normal speed now, no more 4 day week-ends for quite a while, dang it.
Joe
Northern neighbour here, carrying on as ordered.... (incidentally Zee, I'm not sure that I want to know if that was a philosophical question or what... )
George; thanks for that.
Got the crosshead done, the last of the big turning operations. Still the same set-ups as the previous two bits, except that it's finished with a taper.
Turned and bored the flange, turned it around in the chuck and turned the major dia of the taper for it's length and the minor dia for the rest. Bored that end out to near final size at the same time I had just removed the steady when I took this photo.
set up the compound and turned the taper. If you look closely, you will see a 5 gal pail of swarf in the background... filled that twice doing these three parts!
Then turned it around again in the chuck, cut the internal taper, set it up in the mill (same as before) to cut the side cut-outs,
and here it is!
Things will slow down back to normal speed now, no more 4 day week-ends for quite a while, dang it.
Joe
Hi all...
Moved forward with the crankshaft bearings.
Chopped up the raw stock in the mill
after milling 5 sides for squareness, bored the through hole and started shaping. I don't have any ball-end mills or corner rounding ones, so dug out the woodworking carbide router bits, worked just fine
drilled the mounting holes, then cut one end off to be the second bearing, cleaned everything up, turned some bronze bushings and here we are
Finally got the stock for the rocker arms, so will get stuck into those next. Fairly complex little bits, so it will take a while I suspect.
Cheers, Joe
Moved forward with the crankshaft bearings.
Chopped up the raw stock in the mill
after milling 5 sides for squareness, bored the through hole and started shaping. I don't have any ball-end mills or corner rounding ones, so dug out the woodworking carbide router bits, worked just fine
drilled the mounting holes, then cut one end off to be the second bearing, cleaned everything up, turned some bronze bushings and here we are
Finally got the stock for the rocker arms, so will get stuck into those next. Fairly complex little bits, so it will take a while I suspect.
Cheers, Joe
Joe;
With the Taig's what depth of cuts and feed rates have you found best for the carbide router bits and the Mastercraft saw when working with aluminum or brass? Fairly light cuts I assume but how light?
What tooth count was the Mastercraft saw?
Is there an upper limit to the radius on the router bits that you've found - too much cutting edge / not enough power? I.E - how large a router bit have you been able to use?
Cheers
Garry
With the Taig's what depth of cuts and feed rates have you found best for the carbide router bits and the Mastercraft saw when working with aluminum or brass? Fairly light cuts I assume but how light?
What tooth count was the Mastercraft saw?
Is there an upper limit to the radius on the router bits that you've found - too much cutting edge / not enough power? I.E - how large a router bit have you been able to use?
Cheers
Garry
Doggonnit, I missed your Jan 4th post, somehow. The engine assembly is so impressive, Joe. I love this thing!
Those bearing blocks are really nice. A very pleasing contour to them. The router bit worked well, and you did a good job.
Have to look into those router bits.
Dean
Those bearing blocks are really nice. A very pleasing contour to them. The router bit worked well, and you did a good job.
Have to look into those router bits.
Dean
Hi Garry
The saw blade is 85mm dia 24 teeth, they stock it as a replacement blade for their laminate trimmer. I run it at around 2k rpm, mounted on a standard Taig arbour I have just under 1.2" of blade before fouling on the arbour. It pretty much lets me know when it's not happy, then I just slow down my feed rate a little. As I don't have power feed, it's hard to quantify: I just crank a little slower. A frequent squirt with WD40 makes it better through aluminium, although it's hard on my shirts.... the biggest issue to date is looking out for the off-cut going flying when you've cut through.
With the core-box router bit (Ball end to the machinist) and the round-over, I ran at around 3k rpm, was taking 20 thou cuts with no trouble conventional milling, this was leaving some chatter marks that came out by just going back (climb milling) with no additional depth put on for the final pass. The 3/8" round-over is the largest I've tried so far, this particular one is over 1" in dia so it's a fair weight of metal behind the cutting edge.
I'll have to go through the collection of bits in ever increasing size one day just for the heck of it to determine what is the max size I can realistically use. I have quite a few bits in 1/4" shank which snug up nicely in the collet on the mill.
Cheers, Joe
PS Dean: You popped up there while I was typing: thanks.
The saw blade is 85mm dia 24 teeth, they stock it as a replacement blade for their laminate trimmer. I run it at around 2k rpm, mounted on a standard Taig arbour I have just under 1.2" of blade before fouling on the arbour. It pretty much lets me know when it's not happy, then I just slow down my feed rate a little. As I don't have power feed, it's hard to quantify: I just crank a little slower. A frequent squirt with WD40 makes it better through aluminium, although it's hard on my shirts.... the biggest issue to date is looking out for the off-cut going flying when you've cut through.
With the core-box router bit (Ball end to the machinist) and the round-over, I ran at around 3k rpm, was taking 20 thou cuts with no trouble conventional milling, this was leaving some chatter marks that came out by just going back (climb milling) with no additional depth put on for the final pass. The 3/8" round-over is the largest I've tried so far, this particular one is over 1" in dia so it's a fair weight of metal behind the cutting edge.
I'll have to go through the collection of bits in ever increasing size one day just for the heck of it to determine what is the max size I can realistically use. I have quite a few bits in 1/4" shank which snug up nicely in the collet on the mill.
Cheers, Joe
PS Dean: You popped up there while I was typing: thanks.
Thanks Joe.
I notice you're a fellow night owl!!!
I also notice earlier in the post you mention the tailstock reach issue on the Taig lathe - try these; (although I suspect you know, it's just on the too do list!)
http://www.cartertools.com/dead center.html
http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/deadcenter/deadcenter.html
Best regards
Garry (off to buy more tooling....)
I notice you're a fellow night owl!!!
I also notice earlier in the post you mention the tailstock reach issue on the Taig lathe - try these; (although I suspect you know, it's just on the too do list!)
http://www.cartertools.com/dead center.html
http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/deadcenter/deadcenter.html
Best regards
Garry (off to buy more tooling....)
Thanks, Garry
You're right, I am usually up fairly late.
Those mods for the lathe just keep on piling up :big:
I need to build the ball turning attachment as well so I can do those nice locking screws too, get rid of all those cap screws, convert the little brass handles on the various feeds to spinning ones, add a lead screw... this thing is going to keep me busy for a long time!
Cheers, Joe
You're right, I am usually up fairly late.
Those mods for the lathe just keep on piling up :big:
I need to build the ball turning attachment as well so I can do those nice locking screws too, get rid of all those cap screws, convert the little brass handles on the various feeds to spinning ones, add a lead screw... this thing is going to keep me busy for a long time!
Cheers, Joe
Well, finally got started on the rocker arms. Happily, there are two holes called out in the same plane, so I could use them for locating virtually everything. Did all the lay-out, drilled the holes, cut out the blanks, and went to work on a sacrificial plate on the mill with a series of tapped holes to hold the parts in the various orientations required.
you can see the marks left from milling the long sides, and using a .5" end mill for the inside radius. A lot of repetitive motion, and here the are all done with the fixture for now.
Couldn't think of any really good way to hold the parts for milling the sides down to dimension, so did them pretty much hanging out in the air, light cuts and easy feed, and happily, no drama.
and here's where I am so far.
Still got some rounding over to do, cut a slot for the cam follower, drill and tap a hole for the screw that actually moves the valve, and another visit to the fixture for milling some decorative reliefs on the sides.
Cheers, Joe
you can see the marks left from milling the long sides, and using a .5" end mill for the inside radius. A lot of repetitive motion, and here the are all done with the fixture for now.
Couldn't think of any really good way to hold the parts for milling the sides down to dimension, so did them pretty much hanging out in the air, light cuts and easy feed, and happily, no drama.
and here's where I am so far.
Still got some rounding over to do, cut a slot for the cam follower, drill and tap a hole for the screw that actually moves the valve, and another visit to the fixture for milling some decorative reliefs on the sides.
Cheers, Joe
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