sherline 5400 possible purchase help

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
hehe thanks Vernon
I just emailed sherline so I can see my options incase something goes wrong.

I did take this picture last night just didnt think of uploading it.

DSC00182.jpg
 
Ah, he's cut new dovetails. Sherline uses an odd angle, something like 55.5 degrees, because that's what was on the original Clisby machines and they wanted to maintain backwards-compatibility.

Well, if it were mine, I'd clean up those tool marks, check the dovetail for straightness, re-anodize it, and run it like it is. Oh yeah, also cut a thou or two clearance under the saddle or on the top of the base. The middle isn't supposed to be a contact surface.
 
Vernon said:
Ah, he's cut new dovetails. Sherline uses an odd angle, something like 55.5 degrees, because that's what was on the original Clisby machines and they wanted to maintain backwards-compatibility.

Well, if it were mine, I'd clean up those tool marks, check the dovetail for straightness, re-anodize it, and run it like it is. Oh yeah, also cut a thou or two clearance under the saddle or on the top of the base. The middle isn't supposed to be a contact surface.

WHAAAAA?!!!! baby steps baby steps.
:big: thats all foreign to me.

sherline says 10% discount off of the 144$ it will cost to replace the bottom, im not exactly sure what the bottom consists of because the part number they provided doesnt show a picture on their site.
 
Speedy said:
WHAAAAA?!!!! baby steps baby steps.
:big: thats all foreign to me.

sherline says 10% discount off of the 144$ it will cost to replace the bottom, im not exactly sure what the bottom consists of because the part number they provided doesnt show a picture on their site.

Haha! P# 54020, bottom left corner of this pic: http://www.sherline.com/MillExPN.pdf

The rest can wait until don't have to worry about studying, and have time to pop that table off.
 
well just had a coffee break, decided to take the table off. was easy!
but I didnt break it down yet, already see parts that need replacement, I think its called the thrust collar after the hand wheel.
the two holes are elongated one more so then the other but it seems that my taig lathe can make a new one!

thats when the coffee ran out (I gulp it down :big:) so the rest needs to wait for another day/time.

back to studying I go. :noidea:
 
Ha, yes, disassembly is so much easier when the machines are tiny.


My X-axis leadscrew locked up at the thrust collar during a 60ipm rapid (oh yeah, it's CNC'd, from a time before Sherline offered CNC conversions, with bearings), so I added a counterbore to either side, and a pair of miniature ball bearings. I still need to do the Y axis.

 
okay so the brass nut inside the table slide just slipped out. I moved it back into position and tightened down the grub screw.
assembled it and it works. but its slipping inside the table slightly, maybe I didnt tighten it down good enough.
I dont see any need to buy anything..... yet.

the table was on backwards, now its proper with the measurements in the front.

it saddens me to see how people treat their tools. plenty of little things that annoy me on this mill.

I am debating wether or not to sell this.
the biggest concern is the machining he did to the mill.

the money can surely be used in my tractor addiction. 8)
but then I will be without a mill again. can always keep the vise :D
 
Keep it. The spindle is small but high-quality. Maybe use it and the column to make a milling attachment for your lathe. Actually I've seen Taigs with Sherline spindle motors on them, supposedly lighter and more powerful.

If the Y gib can be adjusted to make the axis slop-free, it's not a terrible thing...but yeah, I know what you mean about seeing tools abused like that. Some people should be limited to plastic knives and safety scissors.
 
I am going to go over it again, but this time I will clean every thing and take pictures along the way for you all to see and comment on.
probably would be wise if I got it working, then gave it a shot at milling.

Vernon how would I clean up the machining marks on the sherline, I ran my finger across them and they are far from smooth.
 
Speedy said:
Vernon how would I clean up the machining marks on the sherline, I ran my finger across them and they are far from smooth.
umm.... :-\ I keep forgetting that not everyone has access to bigger machines... handwork? What's the table travel on your lathe? It would be nice to be able to use it to run an indicator along the Sherline base.
 
this is straight from Taig.

CAPACITY

Max. turning dia. 4.5 in. (extendable to 6.5 in.)
Swing over cross slide 2.375 in.
Overall length of bed 15.5 in.
Overall length of lathe 16.5 in.
Tool bit size standard 1/4 in.
Drill chuck capacity 1/4 in.
Distance between centers 9.75 in. (with tailstock).
Carriage travel 9.0 in.
Cross slide travel 1.75 in.
 
Ah, enough that you could use it as a movable base to run an indicator along the bottom surface of the dovetail and check it for flatness...
First, though... does the Y-axis gib adjust far enough to take the slop out now? It sure wouldn't be fun to smooth out those surfaces and find out you've run out of adjustment. How about the inside surface of the dovetail. Is it in need of smoothing, too? I guess with a good straightegde and time, you can handwork those surfaces flat again... hard to get into the dovetail corner, though.
Darn. :-\
 
hey Vernon. looked at that yesterday.
I dont have paypal nor ebay :'(.
 
It's definitely worth your time & knowledge to take apart the mill to clean & adjust & correct it as necessary.

I did that with a used 5400 I had purchased a few years back that I finally paid some attention to ..... :D

The Y-axis/handweel was slightly binding near the thrust collar and I couldn't figure that one out. I was upgrading to the DRO which required installation of the handwheel encoders. I finally disassembled most of the mill to remove the Y-axis and components. Turns out the leadscrew to handwheel coupler widget was slightly off-kilter and the handwheel end of the leadscrew was corresponding slightly bent. I'm figuring the handwheel was whacked pretty hard (or took a fall ?) in it's former lifetime. I confirmed the leadscrew wasn't flat by simply rolling it across my surface plate and watching it wobble. I replaced the leadscrew with a new one from Sherline and now it turns very smoothly !

In the process, I cleaned and readjusted the whole mill - gibs, saddle, backlash adjusters, tables, added in the Z-axis backlash adjuster, upgraded to the DRO on all 3-axis, etc. Took a while, but was worth the knowledge gained in how the mill is put together and operates.

Mike
 
choochoo
I did take it apart once and intend to do it and fully service it. :)

Vernon you have a pm. :D
 
havnt yet. and still not sure what to do.

atlas machinery carries sherline and its 15 mins from the university I go to so I will walk their one day to check it out.
I want to replace the gib ( the plastic thing on the side to get rid of backlash) then I want to fix that slipping nut in the table.

if that gives me a working machine I will be happy untill I have enough cash to replace the base.



 
I was checking the monthly special for Feb-2010 and when I saw it was mill bases, I thought of this thread. If you want to replace the base of the 5400, now would be a good time.

http://www.sherline.com/special.htm
 

Latest posts

Back
Top