Opinion on a new lathe

[hacklordsniper]

As im selling my mini lathe and managed to find a buyer the decision is what to buy next after micro and mini lathe.

My choice and only available brand is Optimum. Im still thinking should i go

240X500 DC vario http://www.optimum-machines.com/products/lathes/d-240-x-500-g/index.html

or

280X700 DC vario http://www.optimum-machines.com/products/lathes/d-280-x-700-g/index.html

I really want the larger one since the price difference is not a big step and this lathe would set me "for life", altrough the smaller would do that too. It will be interesting to carry such machine in house.

What im thinking about is the gearbox in oil. Any experience with Chinese built machines at it? Oil leaks? Any particular experience to the model im reffering? Any drawbacks?

 

[n4zou]

You can always do small work on a large machine. You can't do large work on a small machine. Always buy the largest machine you can fit and afford.

 

[GWRdriver]

I agree with your thinking. The momentary sting of few 100€ will be quickly forgotten and you will never regret having the additional power and 30-4000rpm speed range that machine has. I went through this same process 30+ years ago when I bought my lathe (a British Harrison M250 - 280mm.) For a few 100£ I had the option of waiting on a more powerful 3000rpm model or taking a 1500rpm model immediately. I took the 1500rpm machine and have regretted it ever since because its lack of rpm affects the way it performs doing small work, and as model engineers most of the work we do is small! On the 280 Vario machine you will also be equipped with the power and low rpm range to do large work when it comes around.

 

[Jasonb]

I've have had the Warco version of the 280 with the power cross feed for about 5 years now and am quite happy with it.

The gearbox and apron do drip a little oil but nothing to much.

Torque can drop when you use it at very slow speed on large diameter work like 250mm diameter cast iron flywheels but its not often that you work these diameters on a model.

J

 

[Bastelmike]

As im selling my mini lathe and managed to find a buyer the decision is what to buy next after micro and mini lathe.

My choice and only available brand is Optimum. Im still thinking should i go

240X500 DC vario http://www.optimum-machines.com/products/lathes/d-240-x-500-g/index.html

or

280X700 DC vario http://www.optimum-machines.com/products/lathes/d-280-x-700-g/index.html

I really want the larger one since the price difference is not a big step and this lathe would set me "for life", altrough the smaller would do that too. It will be interesting to carry such machine in house.

What im thinking about is the gearbox in oil. Any experience with Chinese built machines at it? Oil leaks? Any particular experience to the model im reffering? Any drawbacks?

Hy,

if You can afford it (space and cost), my proposal would be an Optimum D320. Just because tis one has a gearbox for the main spindle, no need to change belts. Thats a very big advantage in my opinion.

Mike

 

[hacklordsniper]

Hello,

the D320 is out of my budget and even if not there is no way i could bring it in house because of the wight and there is no space for it.

I really want the D280X700, the price difference is quite small (i just recieved offers today), more smaller than on the website.

Problem is my lathe table "tub" is 160 cm long, the D280X700 is 135 cm long. The leaves me only 25 cm of space, 12.5 cm on each side. Opening the gear train needs atleast 30 cm. Also i could not remove the tail stock, or the carriage for cleaning or any adjustment. This could be a problem with 180 kg lathe. On my question Optimum suggested that minimal table length for D280X700 is 220 cm.

I will need to take the D240X500

 

[hacklordsniper]

Im still troubled by this decision... Does anyone have an good idea how to lift the 180 kg lathe and put it on the table? Approximately what weight will i get when i remove the carriage, chuck, tailstock?

 

[Tin Falcon]

the weights given are approx shipping weight. so deduct the weight of the extra tooling the crate and the tal stock. my G4000 is listed @ 300lb 135 kg but is easily put on the bench by my son and I. yes we both lift weights daily.

in my younger days I Moved a 250lb anvil from my hatback car to the stump un the shop. Noticed I said moved not lift. I put a generator in a van by myself using ramps.

An engine hoist will do the job. or just do cribbing lift one end at a time and block up the other option is do not lift it slide from the back of your pickup onto the bench. My son and I move 500lb blocks of cast iron all the time .
Be creative but save think it through and if you slide rather than lift you can move more than you think. pipes used as roller help a lot. .
Be safe.
Tin

 

[gus]

You can always do small work on a large machine. You can't do large work on a small machine. Always buy the largest machine you can fit and afford.

Hi ZOU,

You are right. I opted for the Sakai ML360 Mini Lathe (150mm swing x 360 between ctrs) with no regret. The smaller and much cheaper ML230(100mm x 240mm) would not take on the mini engines I built. It would not have enough swing to take the flywheels.
Same goes for the vertical mill.

In real life,I went for a bigger engine lathes,milling machines,shapers etc.
Submitting new Capital Requisition for bigger lathes would be like Hari Kiri with Corporate HQ.

 

[kvom]

Can you not make your lathe stand mobile for the times you need to change gears or access the spindle end?

My Monarch is about the same size bed, and I have never needed to remove the tailstock. However, I have had times where I wanted to insert a longer bar through the spindle hole from the side. I've also used a wooden rod from the outside to clear swarf from the spindle hole, esp. after boring.

The 1.5kw motor option would be worthwhile IMO if finances can swing it.

 

[Jasonb]

You do not need 300mm to get to the gear train you need approx 10mm longer than the cover width so thats 120mm though a fraction maore would be handy say 140mm.

The tailstock does not need to be slid off the end of the bed, just undo the nut & plate below and it will lift off, same with teh carrage undo the 4 bolts and it will come off leaving the apron behind

You can strip the lathe down quite a bit to reduce the weight then two people can lift it or use an engine hoist as has been suggested. Here is mine with chuck, tailstock, topslide, motor, gear cover, chip tray & back cover, chuck guard, etc removed, I would not suggest removing the carrage for transport

 

[hacklordsniper]

Can you not make your lathe stand mobile for the times you need to change gears or access the spindle end?

Problem my lathe table is closed and (im attaching the picture) and when throwing the drill out im left exactly with 1580 mm.

You do not need 300mm to get to the gear train you need approx 10mm longer than the cover width so thats 120mm though a fraction maore would be handy say 140mm.

Thank you, that is very useful information

 

[kvom]

Looks as if the left side of the enclosure could be hinged w/o too much trouble.

Your shop is too neat.

 

[Jasonb]

I should just say that mine is the variable speed 280, a belt drive may have a different end cover.

J

 

[GWRdriver]

Your shop is too neat.

My thoughts exactly. Every once in a while when I've gone to a newly built, squeaky-clean pub/sports bar I'm asked "How did you like it?" and my answer is "There's nothing wrong with that place a good alcohol-fueled brawl and food fight won't cure." Same thing applies, here's nothing a few projects won't cure, . . . but I sure do covet that parts bin.

 

[hacklordsniper]

Looks as if the left side of the enclosure could be hinged w/o too much trouble.

Your shop is too neat.

That is a great idea, its welder but i will call my friend which made it to see our possibilities.

I like to keep it clean, sometimes it can be so infested with swarf, tools and various junk you cant walk inside. Last winter i even arc welded in there, i repaired my motorcycle inside and do quite many work which leaves place in terrible mess. But give me 12 hours, vacuum cleaner, and some cleaning agents and at the end of the day you can eat from the floor

 

[MuellerNick]

My choice and only available brand is Optimum.

Whenever I hear Optimum (I call them Pessimum), I get upset. You do not pay more for better quality, you pay more of the company's owner.
I had two Optimum D330 * 1000. The first one was replaced after I found too many bugs in it. Replacing took just 9 months and a long list of insisting. The replacement lathe (that I still have), I should have rejected too. Same crap bundled with a lot of promises. I have seen more of the Optimum mills/lathe, not just these two. All the same!
Buy a HBM or Kami, same crap, less money.


Nick

 

[Till]

You're better of with a second-hand Wabeco...

 

[hacklordsniper]

Whenever I hear Optimum (I call them Pessimum), I get upset. You do not pay more for better quality, you pay more of the company's owner.
I had two Optimum D330 * 1000. The first one was replaced after I found too many bugs in it. Replacing took just 9 months and a long list of insisting. The replacement lathe (that I still have), I should have rejected too. Same crap bundled with a lot of promises. I have seen more of the Optimum mills/lathe, not just these two. All the same!
Buy a HBM or Kami, same crap, less money.


Nick

Unfortunately i had 2 of their lathes until now and both had amazing list of various manufacturing defects. They are only brand available, so i cant take anything else.

Second hand market is quite unspectacular, few very old lathes, with 2 fingers of rust everywhere, price more than new Optimum.

 

[goldstar31]

A Myford Super 7B? It may not the best lathe, it may not be the most modern or even need lots of restoration( like mine did)---- but it is MYFORD- and will always be --- a MYFORD.