Heavier flywheels for the Kerzel hit and miss engine

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Brian Rupnow

Design Engineer
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Location
Barrie, Ontario, Canada
About 6 or 7 years ago, when I first started machining, the Kerzel engine was the first hit and miss engine I ever built. After many trials and tribulations, I ended up with a successful runner. You can see the lengthy build thread here. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=10091--Although this engine worked very well, and went into and out of hit and miss mode as I had hoped for, it never gave that distinctive "pop"---hiss-hiss-hiss "pop"---hiss-hiss-hiss sound that you associate with full size hit and miss engines, or even many of the model Farm-boy engines I have seen built. I decided that this was the result of my using a Viton elastomer ring on the piston instead of a cast iron ring. The Viton ring seals perfectly, but it creates more drag on the piston than a cast iron ring would. I have often wondered over the years, if an increase in flywheel diameter would have a positive effect on the way my engine ran. A recent post on HMEM by a gentleman named Jim, showed that he built a Kerzel a few years ago, and failed to get it running at all until he made a set of oversize flywheels for it. This got me thinking about my own Kerzel again, and prompted me to measure how much clearance I had between the existing 3 1/2" flywheels and the wooden base. I just have room to slide a 1/4" thick piece of cold rolled flatbar between the brass flywheel and the base. The gas tank can be slid over 1/4" more to the right to clear a larger flywheel.A phone call to my metal supplier determined that he has a piece of DOM tubing, 4" outside diameter and 3" inner diameter, and that he would saw off a couple of 7/8" thick "rings" for me for $5 each. Since I have exhausted my ideas of "nifty things to build" for the moment, I am going to see if increasing the diameter of the flywheels has any effect on how it runs. The picture here shows my kerzel, setting up on it's shelf, and you can see the 1/4" of clearance under the existing flywheel.
 
This is a video link to the way my Kerzel engine runs now. This is a fairly recent video, taken within the last three months.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLkF2nAjOJ8[/ame]
 
Brian,
The other day I was thinking about these model hit and miss engines and amount of "coasting" they do. Exhaust valve size crossed my mind.
Would increasing the exhaust valve to the max the bore/head would allow (and ports down stream) for better costing. This thought came to me after planing out bigger valves and some port work on my 450 race four wheeler.

Being stuck at school for 16 hours a day I haven't had time to do any building but I have added this to my list of things to try after I have a shop set up.
Just food for thought.

I love your recent builds, I will be following this one as well. Always something to learn!

Garrett.
 
WSMkid --Thank you for stopping by and saying hi. I don't think that there is enough restriction in airflow caused by the current size of the exhaust valve to have much effect on how long the engine coasts between hits. The current valve and port size will flow more air than the engine can pump.---Brian
 
Yesterday about 10 minutes after I posted about this flywheel upgrade, a walk-in customer showed up at my door with about 6 hours of machining he needed done. I had to go across town to pick up some 304 s.s. for his job, so I picked up my material for the heavier flywheel rims as well. I have no idea why my supplier cut one ring 1/4" thicker than the other, but for $5 I wasn't about to ask him. I will finish off the customer job this morning, and then see what I can do to machine these rings into respectable flywheel "add ons".
 
Ha!!! That went amazingly well!!! I had to shift the gas tank about 3/8" but other than that the first flywheel slid right into place. Now to turn the i.d. on the second blank.
 
Yee Hawwww---Lookit the ears on that sucker, Roy!!! I'm not sure what's going to happen with this additional weight on the flywheels, but for $5 and an afternoons work I'm going to find out. I ended up turning the outside diameter of the add-on flywheels to 3.960", just to have a breath of clearance between the flywheels and the wooden base. The only things I had to change were the position of the gas tank and the knob on my Kerzel lever pivot shaft. The gas tank was easy, as it was just Loctited into an aluminum hoop, and the Kerzel lever pivot shaft knob which used to be round is now cylindrical. Everything goes round and round and up and down with no clearance issues, so hopefully tomorrow I'll find out what effect this has on the way the engine goes in and out of hit and miss cycles.
 
Looks great Brian. Kind of like opposite of my Flywheels-brass steel, steel brass, I like the contrast. BTW, do you still have the PUMP JACK plans? I'm an old OIL FIELD guy and always wanted to build one.

Respectfully,

Jim
 
Looks great Brian. Kind of like opposite of my Flywheels-brass steel, steel brass, I like the contrast. BTW, do you still have the PUMP JACK plans? I'm an old OIL FIELD guy and always wanted to build one.

Respectfully,

Jim
Jim--send me an email to [email protected] and identify yourself and what you want and I will send you a download link for the plans.---Brian
 
This is the first run with heavier flywheels. It is somewhat inconclusive at the moment. I think there is a bit of noise "illusion" here, because my muffler points down away from the engine, and you can not clearly hear it when it "hits". I may modify the exhaust pipe and bring it up to the top so "hits" can be heard more clearly. It is still going in and out of hit and miss mode with the heavier flywheels on it, but seems to be running a bit fast. I may add a bit of weight to the counterweights, as this is much simpler than winding different strength springs.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBhIjjYzVyE&feature=youtu.be[/ame]
 
In order to hear more clearly when the engine fires, I have converted to a stack style exhaust. You can see the old muffler setting beside the engine. the new exhaust is a two piece unit., A brass part is machined to screw into the exhaust port on the cylinder head with a 5/16"-18 thread. The stack itself is made from a section of high nickel content automotive brake line. It is pushed into a hole in the brass machined part and held in place by #620 Loctite. The string tied to the stack has a pair of pliers hanging off the other end, to ensure that the exhaust stack is held truly vertical until the Loctite sets up.
 
I'm finding out interesting things here. The added weight on the flywheels made the engine want to run slower. The fact that the engine was running slower made the governors operate in a different range because of the slower speed, and strangely enough the engine actually ended up running faster!! The cure for this was to add a bit of weight to each governor weight, which made the governor more sensitive and consequently brought the speed back down to an acceptable level. I'm just about where I want to be in terms of speed and hits versus misses, but I have a terrible rattle in the engine. I don't know if this is a result of the needle roller bearings on the crankshaft (they were noisy right from the day I put them in 6 years ago, in an effort to cut down on friction) or just the sound amplification caused by running the engine on my wooden desk. Tomorrow I will try it on the workbench out in my main garage it is any quieter.


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2QLVUGCB_o&feature=youtu.be[/ame]
 
I'm pretty sure the noise is in those roller bearings. As I said, they were noisy right from day one. I'm having a new thought here. This is a low rpm engine. There is no real side-load on the bearings, other than the thrust of the connecting rod. I have had similar applications in real life full size engineering projects, where I used type 901 blue nylon. It has a very low coefficient of friction, it's not affected by oil, and it's tougher than whalebone. The shaft is loose in the bearings. I can grab a flywheel and move it up and down. Not much, but probably enough to produce the rattle. Tomorrow I am going to call some of the plastics people here in Ontario and ask about this.
 
Well, in for a penny, in for a pound!! Once I seen that I could grab either flywheel and move it around a bit in the needle roller bearings, it was pretty apparent where the noise was coming from. I pulled the crankshaft this morning. Back when I decided to run needle bearings, I had to make up spacer bushings, as the roller bearings were 3/8" i.d. x 0.5625" o.d., while the hole in the Kerzel frame was 0.625" diameter. I see that I also made the spacer bushings in a "top hat" configuration, so that the flange would act as a spacer facing towards the center of the engine. I have talked to some of the nylon specialties people this morning, and found that there is a specially formulated nylon "Nylatron GS" with molybdenum as part of it's make-up, which is recommended for use in bearings for motors. My local metal supplier has an off-cut of this material, and I am going to make up two new bushings from it and get rid of the needle roller bearings. One of the benefits of these nylon bushings is their noise deadening capacity. It is not a lot of work to make two new nylon bushings, just a huge pain in the butt having to redo the valve timing and ignition timing.
 
Regarding the desktop amplification: Try an old mousepad under the engine. I think the clamps should still hold things well enough in that situation.

However, I think you may be right about the bearings being the main source of the rattle. (Would mechanic's stethoscope or piece of tubing help you isolate it?)

I am enjoying the reworking of this engine. I remember when you built it.

--ShopShoe
 
For what it's worth--I just pulled everything off one end of the crankshaft and miked the area which fits into the bearing. It mikes at .002" undersize. I thought, Hmmmm, that shouldn't have given all the wobble I was seeing. Then I tried the 0.375" shank end of a milling cutter (which is not undersize at all) into the roller bearing and it STILL wiggled around quite a bit.
 
The other end of the crankshaft measured about .003 to 0.006" undersize at the bearing journal. That is definitely too much too much. This is a built up crankshaft, and I distinctly remember the crank going through a few indignities back when I first built the engine. I am going to put new ends on both ends of the crankshaft while I have everything apart.
 
The old crankshaft was silver soldered and pinned together, and although it was straight it had suffered a few abuses along the way, not the least of which was being a bit undersize at the area in contact with the bearings, and being fairly chewed up by set-screws at the outer ends. I cut one end off with my bandsaw and chucked the other up in my lathe. After center drilling I drilled thru both webs with a 1/4" drill, then with a 5/16 drill, then with a 11/32" drill. Now there was only a very thin wall of material holding the center portion to the end in the lathe chuck. I then ran thru with a 0.3735" reamer, which separated the center portion completely from the end in the chuck. Note that the reamer is 0.0015 inches less than 3/8". The new crankshaft pressed into place is a piece of drill rod. Why is that, you may ask?--Because, drill rod comes at a full 0.375". Cold rolled rod comes in at 0.005" undersize, generally about 0.3745". I wanted as much "press" as I could get, so I used drill rod. I don't want to disturb the con rod journal by heating anything up to silver solder the new crankshaft into place, so it is pressed, Loctited, and will be cross-drilled and pinned. Then after 24 hours for the Loctite to fully set, I will cut out the piece remaining between the crankshaft web plates.
 

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