End of an (electrical) era

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I still have a 1967 VW Bug.
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This is a site I use for all the components I need for the Bug.

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/

I had a 67, and drove it for many years.
That was the best VW bug model made in my opinion.
They ruined the car in 68 with that change in the rear suspension, along with adding a bunch of stuff that the car was not designed to have, as air conditioning.

My dad had a 64 and 68 model, and he loved the 64, but got rid of the 68 model, since it had so many problems.
The 68 he had was equipped with an automatic transmission, which was really just a microswitch actuated clutch; you still had to shift the car.

I had to get rid of my 67, but wish I had been able to keep it.
Not a perfect car, but quite simple compared to modern cars, and I could always make it run no matter what.

My wife's grandmother rode in the back of a VW Beetle across the US to California, back in the 60's I guess.
The car was fast, nimble (especially in ice and snow), reliable; perhaps a bit loud.

There is much to be said for having a car that does not have a computer or a tracking system in it, and a car that you can repair and rebuild yourself.

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67 Bugs were unique. I believe I read somewhere that a lot of the components in a 67 were one of a kind. Parts from a 66 or 68 wouldn't fit a 67 at all. But, my God, my 67 is so easy to work on. I can't tell you how many Bug Engines I tore down to the crankshaft for my friends in the late 60's and fixed them.
 
There were a few late changes in the 67, such as the collapsible sterring column, the ball-joint front end, I think the electrical system went to 12 VDC (I converted one of my VW's from 6 volts to 12 volts).

And a larger engine as I recall.

The 67 was/is a very nice car, all things considered, and it was an inexpensive auto to own and operate too.
It needed an updated brake system, but the single brake cylinder system did work ok if you kept it maintained.
It needed a dual circuit brake system.

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There were a few late changes in the 67, such as the collapsible sterring column, the ball-joint front end, I think the electrical system went to 12 VDC (I converted one of my VW's from 6 volts to 12 volts).

And a larger engine as I recall.

The 67 was/is a very nice car, all things considered, and it was an inexpensive auto to own and operate too.
It needed an updated brake system, but the single brake cylinder system did work ok if you kept it maintained.
It needed a dual circuit brake system.

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Most on 6 volts was plus ground.
The 12 volt when to negative ground.
I switched tractors and forklift to 12 voltage.
Started real good on 12 volts use a 6 volt starter.

Dave
 
Tecumseh points and condenser. You will find the rub block hugs around the points cam for a compact fit and the lead for the condenser is like 3 inchs long for remote mounting.
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For your purposes you can make a solid state switch for about $3 if you use new parts and less if you scrounge. An scr and a resistor might well be sufficient, you can use a Reed relay and a magnet,a mechanical switch, an optical interruptor,and so on
 
For your purposes you can make a solid state switch for about $3 if you use new parts and less if you scrounge. An scr and a resistor might well be sufficient, you can use a Reed relay and a magnet,a mechanical switch, an optical interruptor,and so on
The new small engines today they very simple electronic circuit and just fire plug ever stoke using the magnetic on the flywheel. Like Predator engines from HF.

I think it was in popular mechanics magazine they had using a electric eye back in 1960's

Dave
 

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Since I built my first internal combustion engine in 2012, I've been using automotive ignition points that originally were used on 1961 to 1972 Chrysler products. They were fabulous!! These points and the the same year of condenser worked with absolutely no modifications on the small i.c. engines I make. They worked so good that I modelled them in 3D cad, and just dropped them into an engine cad assembly whenever I needed them. And the best part was that the points and condenser together cost only $20 Canadian funds. Alas, this year they were declared "special order" parts.--I can still get them, but now they cost $40 per set---and that is too steep for my blood. I could bite the bullet and move up to electronic ignition with a Hall switch and magnet, but again, the cost ends up being prohibitive. I think I am now going to have to find a supplier of ignition points for a chainsaw or gas lawnmower ??? that will work on a 12 volt power supply, model them in 3D cad, and begin using them on anymore engines that I build. If anybody has a favorite set of inexpensive mechanical ignition points and condenser they would like to share with me, it would be greatly appreciated. It is not a problem to model them up in 3D and begin using them instead of my old Chrysler points.---Brian Rupnow
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Here few more on no points magneto only uses a magnetic on the flywheel
Simple to build or buy.

Dave
 

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Brian,
I picked these up on the week end at a garage sale. 9 sets for $10, should keep me going forever.
Cheers
Andrew
 

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I really don't understand the complaining about the price of points - the parts to make the ignitions shown in the schematics is $0 if you are willing to open up old CFLs or take apart a microwave or an old computer power supply. if $0 isn't cheap enough, you may be able to get paid for taking away e-waste. if you need some help understanding how to build it, ask ---- it seems that several folks here can explain.
 
Same arguement applies for the reduced availability of some model engine castings.

As several folks here have demonstrated recently, some beautiful and unique homemade castings can be made for a very resonable (in my opinion) costs and effort.
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Same arguement applies for the reduced availability of some model engine castings.

As several folks here have demonstrated recently, some beautiful and unique homemade castings can be made for a very resonable (in my opinion) costs and effort.
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But it's a bit of a two bladed sword, I also see people casting engines where the kits are still available. Surely encouraging home casting will reduce sales of the kits that are still out there and more could be lost
 
But it's a bit of a two bladed sword, I also see people casting engines where the kits are still available. Surely encouraging home casting will reduce sales of the kits that are still out there and more could be lost
For some, home castings may be a more economical option.

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