Duplex Vacuum, (Heinrici type stirling)

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Long story short, use 12L14 when ever you can.

I concur...with one reservation. 12L14 will rust more readily than any other steel I've ever encountered. I wouldn't recommend it for any model engine application where it can't be kept oiled at all times.

I live in what is officially classified as a semi-desert and the only (unprotected) steel in my shop that shows any rust is 12L14.
 
Thanks for the nice comments, and for checking in, Kevin.

Marv, the thing about leaded steel rusting is not something I've noticed, and really, I think there are others that rust much faster. I suppose the specification may change slightly from lot to lot, or maker to maker, which I guess could cause it. Our location may be a big difference, too. You're much closer to the ocean than I, but we do get a lot of "wet" here.
The engine below has the cylinder/head unit made from 12L14, and the flywheel from 1018. Though the engine is now about 10 years old, there is no rust on the cylinder. None. The flywheel, even though turned to a better finish, shows a number of little spots not visible in the pic. (Shame on me.)

We all have our own experiences and observations. Ours seem to be quite a bit different in this rust thing.

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Well, back to the build, which is a totally different engine!

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Finishing up this piece, it's drilled and bored to depth and diameter. The area that has the smaller
diameter, right behind the thin flange, will end up with a wall thickness of just .012", so the final cuts to
bring the bore to size were fairly light. About .002" cut put on for the last four or five passes, then on
the last cut, only whisker to bring it to final dimension, and clean it up a bit.





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That's it, on my fat piggy finger. I'll admit, not the best finish I've ever turned.
Must be a hardware problem. Couldn't be the software...





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The family shot, so far. No scrap yet, (but there are 49 pieces to go).
; )

Thanks for looking. Again!

Dean
 
Deanofid said:
Must be a hardware problem. Couldn't be the software...

It's the wetware...it's almost always the wetware.

(For those of you not familiar with the term..it's that stuff inside your head.)

Thanks Dean and Marv. Very helpful. I've had some 12L14 in my basement now for nearly a year...on engines...so far so good. But I keep some trays of damp-rid around too. I have noticed that if I drop some 12L14 chips in water...then by the next day...it's nothing but rust.

Nice family shot Dean.
 
My, it doesn't take long for a guy to slip to page two. I think that's a good sign. Lots of folks building!

This post will show how the main bearing supports are made. Quite a bit of roundy round work in these.



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Starting with two aluminum pieces that had been squared up in one setting, three guide holes are drilled
and reamed. The pieces are clamped together to satisfy my paranoia. I want the holes in each piece
to be really well lined up, as two pairs of holes will become running bores.

The third hole, more or less in the middle, is for R/T jig purposes.





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Once the holes are drilled, the pieces can be separated and I can proceed with the twirly table work.
Similar to how the arms were made, I need to know where to stop the odd radii that make up the
shape of these things, so the first cuts are the relief that form the bosses for the bearings.





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After the bosses are cut on this side, the centering jig hole is put on center on the R/T, and this radius
can be cut through the piece. You can see where this radius ends at the upper bearing boss. It doesn't
matter where the other end of the radius ends, as long as it goes past the part that will become the
straight part of main bearing arm.

Hard to explain what this piece looks like at this point, but it will become clear pretty quick. It will seem
quick, in the pics, at least. Actual time for the first of these two pieces is about six hours. That's "Dean
time". Even slower than real time.

'Bout now, you may be wondering "What are those big gobs of metal holding this mess down?". I
know. I need to make more hold down clamps for my shop!






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The second radius that forms part of the support for the upper bearing is cut the same way as the first
one. The X feed is cranked in for the proper width and the cutter offset, and it's in position.

The prints don't give exact dimensions for this slot, but the start and stop points can be figured using
certain datum points. One is at the center of the eye, and one at the far edge of the work piece.
Datum(s) are often the kind of things that are left up to the builder, and in most cases could be a
number of features on a piece. I chose the upper edge in this picture, along with the short slot I had
milled in that edge earlier. The hole centers are given, and if they're put where they belong, will also
serve as datum points.

Sometimes a print will have a line going to a surface calling out a datum. They guy who drew them is
telling you to use that point as a reference for other measurements.





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Once those two radii are milled in, I can start cutting out the straight pieces. Since the piece is on the
R/T, and has been cranked round to a few different positions, the piece isn't square, so the first step is
to use a 1-2-3 block against the far edge to get it square to the spindle. I just put the block against the
edge, and ran it up against the headstock, rotating the table back and forth until it was squared up. If
any of the features milled off that reference edge needed to hold a certain tolerance, like if cutting a
mounting surface, the 1-2-3 block wouldn't do. That edge would need to be dialed in properly with a
DTI.






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While I had the piece squared up, I went ahead and cut the other bits that amount to perpendicular
lines. Again, locating what goes where using the slot at the blue arrow, and the edge at the red line.





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Now the ends of the two slots are connected, and the middle falls out. There is no way to know this
angle, and it's not called out in the print, but since the end points of the radius and straight slot are cut
in, it's kind of a no brainer, (which is right up my alley).

After this cut, the mill table is cranked back to cut the slot that goes from my short datum slot to the
outer radius of the upper boss.





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With all that stuff cut out, just have to get rid of the material that's holding the scrap to the piece.
Nothing was cut completely off up to this point in order to leave me with plenty of clamping options.





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Back on the pins for the eyes, (bearing bores, actually), and the radii around the bosses are cut, letting
the waste fall away.





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Although there is still about a half hour of milling to be done to clean it up, and lots of filing, this is it for
today. I have another one to make yet. When that one is done, and I get these cleaned up, I'll have a
pic to show, and then on to another part. Maybe something in the lathe to clear my head.

Thanks for having a look in.

Dean


 
Ive been watching for awhile now, and Wow, your work is aww inspiring. I will definatly be watching this thread with must interest.

I am told this type of Sterling engine is the most efficent, and therfore more powerful than the seperate cylinder type. I will be interested in how much usable power one might expect from this engine.

kel
 
Looking great Dean.

Same question as when you made the displacer...did you mill the slots/edges in many passes? Or at depth? Just wondering what difference the material makes.

 
Its still coming along nicely Dean. I see what you mean as to all the roundy round work in those. Looks like you and the mill are getting along well this weekend :big:

Bill
 
Kel and Bill, thanks for your time in commenting. Appreciate that!
Kel, I'm interested to see how much power it makes, too. Really, I'll be pleased if it just runs. : )
I saw a vid of a similar engine powering a watchmakers lathe on Youtube, and the guy was actually cutting brass. That engine was a little larger than this one, but same design.

Zee, I took a number of passes for each cut. The al plate is 1/4" thick, and I made about .040" per pass. The end mill is a 3/16", two flute HSS, and running about 2100 rpm. It could have taken quite a lot more D.O.C. but then chips build up in the slot so fast that it starts running a lot of recuts through the flutes. Makes for more clean up work, and the tool doesn't really like it.

Thanks all!

Dean
 



Is this CNC or manual? Very Impressive either way. But is its manual its Mighty impressive. :bow: :bow:

Ron
 

Thanks Ron. Your kind words are appreciated!
Is this CNC or manual?
I'm happy with my hand cranks and dials. My shop is CNC free.

Dean
 
Nice job Dean I like the main supports beautiful job in hand cranking :big:
How does the 416 material you used for the hot end cap machine compared to 17-4 I don't believe I've ever machined any. I usually use 17-4 ,15-5 or 13-8 when I need a stainless part.
You doing some beautiful work! :bow:


 
Dean, the supports look great. I had a really hard time visualising what you were trying to do on the RT but once I saw the finished part it all clicked. Great description of the process.
 
Doc and Kevin, thanks for checking in!

Doc, I haven't used the stainless types you mention. Just some from the 300 series, and the 416.
I used the 416 for the hot cap because it doesn't make a small machine work so hard. My 'big' lathe is a little 6" Atlas. That particular alloy turns okay, I guess, but not great. At least it doesn't work harden if you look at it wrong! Chips come off in little bits, kind of like a bunch of these things: Ҩ Ҩ Ҩ Ҩ



A little more done today.
I made the second of the bearing supports, and then did a few more steps to finish out the
milling on them.



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The R/T work is done now, so I can mount them on the mill table to thin the inner area to match the
parts done earlier around the bearing bosses. Also, one more cut out area is done on the base of each
piece.

Sorry about all these aluminum on aluminum photos. A little hard to see details.





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Last milling step is to run a ball end mill down the sides of the arms to "nice 'em up" a bit.





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Now, again, some filing work.
There are a number of these little checks, or cuts, like can be seen on the top of the arm and in the
lower cut out area. They all need to be filed out. These things are often caused by recuts that occur
when you have a smallish end mill in a somewhat deep cut. Even making a number of shallower passes
while cutting these out, and cleaning out the chips often, they still happen now and then.





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To file in places like this, where the file could bump up against a part, or in case I should goof and let it
skip up off the flat, I put a piece of masking tape on the parts that could be damaged.





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Well, there they are. I'm done with them for now, though they need just a bit of final finishing, which
I'll do after all the fitting exercises.




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Only five pieces done? Goodness.
Oh, six pieces. Well, that's better.

Thanks for looking in!

Dean

 
Deanofid said:
Only five pieces done? Goodness.

What? Busy? I know what you're up to. ;D

Nice stuff. I always enjoy reading your posts...lots of good tips...not to mention good work.
 
I know what you mean by work hardening ;D I actually like the 17-4 myself only thing is that you end up with the rats nest.

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But you get a nice accurate cut with a nice finish but the nest sucks.


You have 6 nice looking parts there and is that a generic M&M were you tasting the candy coating :big: :big:
 
Looking good there, Dean. I know what you mean about those recuts... and thanks for the tip about masking off the sensitive areas with a bit of tape. That would have saved me a few nasty looking file-end gouges if I'd only known.... :big:

Cheers, Joe
 
Dean, my file work never ends up looking like that :bow:
Amazing!
 
Very nice work Dean.

I liked the way you proved a point.

Many people seem to think that the finished result comes from machining. Far from it.

Machining, to me, is only to get the rough shape, it is the handwork afterwards that brings out the true beauty in a part, and is just as important a skill to pick up as using your machines to their full effect.


John
 
Gosh those parts look good, Dean. Thanks for the explanation on the small ridges (recuts). I'll have to up my rate of chip removal.
Dennis
 
Great going Dean :bow:
And THANK YOU for the detailed photos. I was getting the same problems with the "recuts" on my last build and newbie mill use, and thought it was a unique problem to my own set-up and inexperience. I left some photos out because I thought I just had blunt end mills and so on, but from the photos you have shown, it would appear that some of the finishes I've been getting are normal, and the filing and sanding required afterwards just a part of "getting things done"

There's one on you mate ;)
Kind regards, Arnold
 

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