Appropriate use of studs vs. bolts

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Jeez Louise... the guy asks for a water fountain and gets a fire hose....LOL . I thought I was back on HSM or PM for a moment. Not quite sure why one would need three volumes of esoteric technical data to simply look authentic, but then we all have our own idiosyncrasies. However, I'll also agree.... a new and dedicated thread, given to fastener information might make a nice addition to the board.

Yup... decaf is in definitely in order..... :bow:

Steve
 
Progress...
Here's a picture of the "Unicorn" cylinder head, with studs and nuts. The nuts aren't quite thick enough, but they're better than Allen-head capscrews.... ;D

22-Nov-08.JPG
 
I seem to be attracting a lot of negativity from you. in this thread you've said....

I thought I was back on HSM or PM for a moment

Not quite sure why one would need three volumes of esoteric technical data to simply look authentic

Yup... decaf is in definitely in order

Decaffeinated for the rest of the day.... grin. The poor guy just wanted to know how to make his work look authentic.

While these guys try to get more angels into doing the Watusi on the head of a pin

that's a lot of bandwidth just criticizing what someone else says and I not sure why it bothers you so. I find you often making cracks or criticizing the content of other posts... In this case I tried to explain why I think there is value in the direction it went, but hey, if there's not for you or you don't understand why peace....but why the criticism and snide remarks? .....If its not for you, walk on by....maybe others do get something out of it. :)

 
OK Guys,

Lets keep it friendly, we are all entitled to our opinions. ::) ::)

Mainer the head with the studs and nuts looks pretty damn authentic to me. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob
 
Nice work Mainer. The head studs/bolts/screws look great.

I'll think let Mc's observations stand on their own.... :big: :bow:

<as Cedge checks to see which forum he's really on>

Steve
 
OT rant! thats interesting. All I talked about was my dislike for the metric system and how its being forced on us.
The guys in Oz were talking about finding bolts and such I just gave my thoughts on finding bolts here and the reasons why its become hard work.
Poor old Cedge you seem to get up tite way too fast I never ment to upset you.

Its always friendly on here least thats the way i view it, and its why I stay on here.


Point is studs were used on valve chests and end covers partly to aid in fitting them. Its easier to fit the covers onto studs than offer up and put in bolts. That said there are lifter bolts fitted on a lot of valve chest covers to hep in removing them once teh foliac has gone hard.
Its also worth remembering that washers were very rarely used, rather the nut would be seated down on to a spot facing.
 
CD
I have no arguments with you. In fact my post was basically to Tin Falcon in reference to his comment about it being off topic. Tmuir had a thread just above this one that was expressing a similar metric discontent. For all the world it looked as if you'd posted to one thread while meaning to post on the other. As Tin said... it happens. Far from being upset, I was actually intent on mentioning you were unduly warned for being OT.

Your comments on stud usage is the same information I've always been given, so again... I completely agree with your premise. It even further answers Mainer's original question concerning making things look authentic.

"Poor old Cedge" was simply amazed that the question got all sorts of technically correct but non applicable responses, without ever actually addressing his original inquiry concerning authenticity. Thus the shades of HSM comments.

Thanks Kevin
Steve

 
Voice of inexperience here, but I would have thought something to be wary of if using studs that are threaded all the way to hold large thicknesses of soft material (ie aluminium cylinder head to block on a multi-cylinder engine) is the potential sawing effect the thread would have on the hole during assembly and disassembly - I imagine the small filings could potentially fall into the motor and cause untimely wear.
 
I regards to the original question about what is better studs or bolts, if you want realism you have to do it the way the original was done.

Look up the work of Cherry Hinds on the web or in Model Engineer magazine, she (yes a woman model builder) is one of the best model builders that there ever was and it's all in the details. She doesn't use "close enough" bolts, studs, rivets, nut and other parts, she makes her own to the proper scale along with the rest of the models that are near perfection. That's why she has won so many awards for her work, her models just looks more like the prototype .

As for studs, old equipment studs didn't have threads in the middle, I don't know if it was for strength or just to eliminate extra work or something else, and the ends of the studs need to be finish properly usually with a radius, called a Higby end I believe, look it up on the web. Nuts aren't just a bit of hex bar cut off and threaded, they need to be as close to scale size as possible, the right thickness and finished like the real thing (proper period look which can be a square nut not necessarily a hex and rounded over or chamfered if applicable). You can't model nuts on modern types, they may not be the same.
 
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