- Oct 18, 2013
- Reaction score
- Keswick, Ontario
I didn't find it much of an issue, mill the bottom of the pocket with a new, sharp 1/8" endmill, cut clearance for the tip and then clear the remainder, angle the vise for the end stop and that's done. Then it's just a matter of going to the, in my case, KBC catalog and find a toolholder/boring bar that uses the appropriate XXXT insert and buy a replacement screw, most are metric flat head Torx screws appropriate for the 60° countersink in the insert and then picking up the hole location for drilling and tapping. The hole location is a bit of a judgement call but you want it to pull back and down so it seats. If you're just going for function you can even use a socket head cap screw in a pinch.I went down this path for a custom cutter. Not impossible & will save some bucks, but... you have to get the pocket milled correctly to contain the insert. I find getting the corner radius sharp for a proper fit is a bit fiddly. Also need the appropriate screw (available separately). Maybe you have that corresponding tap, maybe not... Model engineers can tackle anything. I can say from personal experience the shank steel is hardened, tough sh*t so maybe the stiffness & rigidity is part of why it works well. You can indicate off the shank & confirm its set up perpendicular.
As for how hard the holder is, if you're planning a long production run or heavy machining it would be something I'd be concerned about but keep the overhang limited and if it's only for a few ring grooves in cast iron or aluminum you'll have no problem.