3/4" Pennsy A3

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Todd just a tip when you tap a hole do so right after you drill it While you still have it held in your vise . Put the tap right in the drill chuck or get a tape handle that will fit in your drill chuck . If you try to tap a hole by hand in though small sizies you will surely brake a lot of them .. they must be started square in the part. Dale
 
Thanks, Dale. Good point. I have a spring loaded tap guide that I use in the mill to help keep things straight.
 
Finished up the tender trucks.
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Now, on to the tender frame.
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Thanks, Steve.

The truck frames are all brass. The tender frame is all steel.

Todd
 
Well, I've gotten a lot done in the past few weeks. I made new frame pieces from brass for the side and end sills. I kept the steel bolsters as they were already done. The coupler pocket, drawbar pocket, and drawbar are done. I've started laying out the parts for the front steps on brass sheet.

Todd





 
Todd Everything really looks great . I just now read your question ,I am almost done with my A3 .I build it in G guage . I am also polishing everything and putting a clear coat on it .The frame and cab walls will be black also the tender frame . Again looks GREAT . Dale
 
Thanks, Dale.

Would love to see some pictures of yours. Can't imagine trying to build this in a smaller scale.

Todd
 
That's some beautiful work, Dale. Where does she stand now? Did you ever steam her?

Todd
 
Todd Everything really looks great . I just now read your question ,I am almost done with my A3 .I build it in G guage . I am also polishing everything and putting a clear coat on it .The frame and cab walls will be black also the tender frame . Again looks GREAT . Dale


Dale - what are you using for the clear coat? Thought about doing that on a couple of my engines, but never foind anything that worked very well. Any tips on the polishing/clearcoating would be great. I am just gathering up materials for Kozo's New Shay, will be starting that one soon. As you guys were discussing, I will be mixing in some steel stock in place of brass (things like the longer frame rails, plates, etc) to save some of the cost.
 
Crueby I am going to use clear power coat . Don;t know much about it . It seems to hold on to the polished part pretty good on the test I made. Thanks Dale
 
Got a few more parts in the works. Here's the parts for the steps.


And, here are the steps all soldered up. I've started cutting one to shape. Also, the brackets for mounting the steps to the frame.


More to follow.

Todd
 
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No pictures to show from over the weekend. But, I did finish making the center pins for the trucks and the drawbar pin. So now the trucks are officially attached to the frame. I can pick it up as one whole unit. And, it is starting to get heavy. :)

Todd
 
Made some progress last night. The footboard brackets are complete. I test assembled all the parts, and everything fits together just right. Now I just need to clean all the parts and silver solder them. I hope to get that done today. Here's some photos:

All the parts ready to start bending.
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The two on the right side have been milled to length and height.
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Drilling the end sill mounting holes.
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Drilling the footboard mounting holes.
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Test assembled.
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Test assembled on the end sill. The parts will be cleaned and re-assembled on the end sill as a jig during soldering.
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More fun to be had later.
Todd
 
While I wait for the funds to buy the copper and brass to build the tank, I thought I'd go ahead and make some parts from the material I do have. I have some stainless hex bar to make the handhold stanchions on the rear end sill. Cut four pieces to an appropriate length. faced and center drilled both ends. Turned and threaded the lower end. Now I'm turning the diameters on the upper ends. After that I have to turn the taper to finish them. One piece at a time, right?
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Todd

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